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Pro Flo 4. Edelbrock

I'm thinking its like an overflow tank for the radiator. One item I've been contemplating, and will need to look at some manuals, is use a evap system off a late model vehicle, say 2000 on. They utilize a vacuum pump, charcoal canister, vent lines, sealed cap and tank. Maybe this might be another way around the major venting issues with the current fuel. Parts could be had at the bone yard or bought new. A little fabbing and you would be done. If you think about it, the later model stuff doesn't have the venting and fuel overflowing problems, nor do you get a big whoosh when you undo the cap at re-fill.
 
Time for a tanks inc setup. Return style no issues with unsightly burps! Lol.
 
Dennis - I've had the same issue with the Coronet. Tanks Inc. baffled tank with in-take electric fuel pump and vent valve installed above the tank. When gassing up if I top it off after the gas pump shuts off then the fuel will wick up the vent line and seep out of the vent valve. Now when the pump clicks off I call it good and haven't noticed any leaks.
 
Don’t know tank capacity. About 22 gallons. Tried not to overfill. Listened and stopped at first click.
All these tv shows installing efi. Not one says a word about this. Guess they put 3 gallons in and call it a day. If you drive the car any distance you’ll want to fill it.
 
And it can still suffer from hot fuel.
 
And it can still suffer from hot fuel.
Several years ago I added a high volume Carter mechanical fuel pump. It pushed 11 PSI so I added a regulator with a bypass/return line to the tank. The fuel stays moving in a loop. I have no hot start problems, not a bit of vapor lock either.
I'll probably run a similar setup in my project car.
 
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So true, but efi or direct injection is soooo much better. With either of these, ya start it, back out then drive. No waiting for the engine to warm up a bit, no popping, no coughing just drive and better fuel mileage.
 
Several years ago I added a high volume Carter mechanical fuel pump. It pushed 11 PSI so I added a regulator with a bypass/return line to the tank. The fuel stays moving in a loop. I have no hot start problems, not a bit of vapor lock either.
I'll probably run a similar setup in my project car.

But none of that was factory.

I hear watcha saying, no argument from me.
 
I was just looking to find a way to adapt to the fast evaporating new gas formula without spending too much.
 
You aren’t kidding. California fuel, gas or diesel sucks! I filled up with diesel on my 2011 Ram 2500 4x4 6.7 CCSB lifted 4 inches running 35’s with 3.73’s, in Phoenix, AZ. and drove (70mph) to Castaic, CA. It was tad over 400 miles, filled up the tank and then drove home to Hanford, Ca., that 155 miles, got home and the tank was just below the 1/2 mark.

California fuel is junk compared to the 47 lower states!
 
This is reported to be the purge/fuel pissing after shut off fix.
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Dennis, wth is happening is it the fuel causing this leakage eating up orings or what. I don't know anything about these but I'm curious to understand.
 
Not sure. Ricks tanks put in non submersible lines tor the in tank PWM pump. The purge was a separate issue.
 
I like it and envisioned something similar I wanted to try myself. Let us know how it works.
 
Dennis as you know I had a nice custom tank with in tank pump and that thing had leaks and drips and overflows. Man! I still don’t know why with in tank efi working well in OEM cars of all makes for the last 40 years, why in the heck can’t an aftermarket set up be trouble free and easy???
 
Dennis as you know I had a nice custom tank with in tank pump and that thing had leaks and drips and overflows. Man! I still don’t know why with in tank efi working well in OEM cars of all makes for the last 40 years, why in the heck can’t an aftermarket set up be trouble free and easy???

It can... My Tanks Inc tank has been 100% fine... And pretty cheap too...
 
Several years ago I added a high volume Carter mechanical fuel pump. It pushed 11 PSI so I added a regulator with a bypass/return line to the tank. The fuel stays moving in a loop. I have no hot start problems, not a bit of vapor lock either.
I'll probably run a similar setup in my project car.
After removing my aftermarket gorgeous tank that had awesome welds and baffles but a shitty sending unit flange thin as a potato chip leaking under pressure and going back to a stock tank with carter mechanical pump, the shop talked me into removing my fuel return line saying I don’t need it for a carb setup. Why the hell did I listen? Nothing but hot start issues ever since. The fuel return using a 3 nipple fuel filter is a great idea especially in California. I need to reinstall mine.
 
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