Project Larry - 62 Dart 440

[matthon]

What is the best way to separate the spotwelds at the front of the floorpan?

I've thought of cutting along the edge of the seam to get at the welds, and yesterday I saw a tool advertised, somewhere, that is supposed to break spotwelds at the seam.

Engine and trans are out, but I'm still not a fan of crawling under and drilling.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Since the pan is already screwed just cut it out near that seam after you remove the bulk of it. Should be easier to get to them without crawling under the car.

 

[matthon]

That's where my head is at, thought maybe I was missing something.

I stuck a screwdriver between the seam and it split. Not sure if the whole length is that fragile.

 

[493 Mike]

That floor looks like a CHALLENGE!
Mike

 

[gkent]

The best way is from the bottom. The spot welds still need to be drilled out, the tool you're referring to is only used to split the seam when the welds are still clinging on for dear life.

Eastwood sells those tools - "panel splitters" I believe. Well worth the money.

 

[Grabbergreendream]

I made a panel splitter for my air hammer from a junk bit & a cheap steel scraper. Notched the bit & welded it up. Works great for areas like this...

 

[gkent]

I find an air chisel is to aggressive. Most welds will come apart with some gentle prodding with a seam splitter. If it won't come apart with a seam splitter then you better be looking at drilling out more of the weld.

 

[dvw]

Cut off wheel placed 90 degrees to the damaged metal side of the spot weld. Grind the bad metal at the weld until its thin. Peel it off. Smooth the remaining weld on the good metal side. Once you get use to it, grinding with a cut off wheel is very effective.
Doug

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Cut off wheel placed 90 degrees to the damaged metal side of the spot weld. Grind the bad metal at the weld until its thin. Peel it off. Smooth the remaining weld on the good metal side. Once you get use to it, grinding with a cut off wheel is very effective.
Doug

I agree..

Remove the bulk of the old floor, try gentle persuasion but if the spot welds don’t pop grind away at the throw away side with a cutting wheel

 

[matthon]

Got it.
Drilling the spotwelds out with a cutter and a large drillbit has been very effective, and without leaving holes in the rockers.
Just a large screwdriver or small bar pops the panel off.

The plan is to cover the glass with cardboard, open the doors, pull the heater, sandblast inner firewall, kick panels, rockers, rails, rear floor thru to trunk, and door jambs.

I'm thinking even with the floor removed it should be ok to push it out to blast it.

After that, I need to pull the torsion bars and replace the t-bar crossmember with a rust free one.

Is there enough structure there to r&r without bracing?

The reason I ask is on a parts car I cut out the rear of the front frame rail with a section of the crossmember, including the splashshield connected to the rocker, and the car stayed together, with no floor, with no flexing.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...door-hardtop-parts-car.174258/#post-911299274

 

[dvw]

There is NO WAY I'd blast with the partial interior, glass, or regulators still in the car. You will NEVER get all the sand out. Hell it's close to impossible to get it all out when its apart. Sandblast a drag car. Then make some hits. Sand will fall out of the pinch welds, frame, etc. More than a few passes. Been there , done it. NO NO NO.
Doug

 

[gkent]

??? Does the dash come out without removing the windshield ???

 

[matthon]

Yes, dash removed, windshield remains.

The interior is completely out, no dash, no seats, no panels, no pedals, no wiring, no trim, no nothing. Also no motor or trans.

Heater is in but it's coming out asap.
Column is in, but I need to move it around.
Headliner is in but it's basically a bed sheet the po installed.

Windshield is separating and I have a tinted one, so that might get pulled too.

Kick panels, rockers, cowl, need to be cleaned out thoroughly from sitting for decades.

And I swear this is not a restoration! Interior is done and wrapped up, the plan is a awesome interior, Dynamat, seatbelts, new weatherstrip, etc. Leave the exterior as is, make mechanically sound.

So, can you r&r a torsion bar crossmember without bracing?

I have this, but if it's not needed.

 

[flypaper]

So, can you r&r a torsion bar crossmember without bracing?

yes
you can also r&r it without removing the floor
but that takes a little doing

 

[miller]

You can remove quite alot of rust, using a scotchbrite wheel. And, not worry about sand coming out of your ears!

 

[Brandy]

Looks like a tough job no matter how you slice it.

 

[matthon]

I'll use a combo of scotch, wire, and my new giant wire which is awesome!

The crossmember I'll giant wire first, then blast, the inside I'll probably see what I can clean up quickly with scotch/wire, and blast if needed. I have one of those disposable hooded suits left too.

I'm starting to lean towards blasting the engine bay since it's completely stripped and easy to seal off.

It might be hard to see in the above pic, but the inner rockers look galvanized, where they?

 

[493 Mike]

I'll use a combo of scotch, wire, and my new giant wire which is awesome!

The crossmember I'll giant wire first, then blast, the inside I'll probably see what I can clean up quickly with scotch/wire, and blast if needed. I have one of those disposable hooded suits left too.

I'm starting to lean towards blasting the engine bay since it's completely stripped and easy to seal off.

It might be hard to see in the above pic, but the inner rockers look galvanized, where they?

View attachment 841828

Yes they were!
Mike

 

[matthon]

Had some time today.
Left side seam had some rot and separated on it's own for a few inches.
Middle to right I just cut it close and will attempt to grind it free tomorrow.

The firewall doesn't have much material at that 90 degree bend to start, definitely less than the floorpan.

So I need to learn myself on making a few minor patches, one behind the e-brake pedal, one a little higher up, as well as the left side rocker at the crossmember.

The new crossmember I have has enough material on it to patch mine, but I might try to slide a patch on the inside as well.

I also cut the left splash guard out of a parts car with the end of the frame rail as both sections were in better shape than mine.

This is new territory for me, but hopefully I can make some progress tomorrow.

 

[Grabbergreendream]

Rough all that up with a wire brush & see whar your actually working with. Then decide whether its conducive to blast or wire wheel. It looks pretty decent to me & after I wheeled mine I used several treatments of phosphoric acid to get everything to "true" steal. Brushed on some epoxy primer & on I went. Mine isn't a #'s resto & it looks like neither are you...
Just my 2 pennies...