440 Charger
Well-Known Member
That sounds fun as hell.
Project Rat Rod V code 70 Charger R/T is about to begin.
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440 Charger
Well-Known Member
How did it work?
Yesterday I bought the gear oil to put in the freshly rebuilt 18 spline Hemi 4 speed transmission, and ordered the rear shocks. They will be in Thursday. With the 295 50 15 tires I got air shocks. I usually run them in all the cars that I have aftermarket wide wheels and tires on. The Charger had that step on the inside of the outer wheel houses that tends to bottom out on the tires without the air shocks. The tires clear the wheel well arch with no problem. On my other Chargers I plan to modify the outer wheel houses so this is not an issue but I am not going to cut and modify the outer wheel houses on a California V code 440 Sixpack car, so air shocks are the best solution for the issue. I have never had any ride issues with them like I did back in the day, because I don't pump them up to the max to clear tires that don't clear the outer wheel house arch like we did back then! The Monroe air adjustable rear shocks were $83.00 for the pair. I vacuumed out the car and started fitting the carpet in too.I put all the body plugs back in the floor pans.
I also found time to break out the Challenger convertible and take the wife to the park so she could see the rose garden. You know what they say, sometimes you have to stop an
d smell the roses!
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The Tremic would work,but I don't want to cut the floor pan.
I cleaned up the exhaust manifolds and painted them in 1200 degree heat resistant paint. They might look kinda blingy now but after a few heat cycles they will tone down to a satin grey look. I cleaned all the gasket mounting surfaces too. I also got the driveshaft painted too.
I got the exhaust manifolds on yesterday after cleaning the residue from what appeared to be the world's best duct tape that I had over the exhaust ports. I used some lacquer thinner and a rag to clean up the heads. I need to get an exhaust manifold sleeve bolt kit for the car at Carlisle. Since it's obvious that I won't have the car ready for the show, atleast I can source all the rest of the needed parts for the car at the show. So today I am going to start a list of what is left that I need to make it run and drive! I got the driveshaft all painted and I didn't like the feel of the rear universal joint. Even though they probably only had about 5000 miles on them,the rear one seemed to have a flat spot where it would bind,so I went and got a new one and got it installed so I can get the driveshaft installed in the car today. The last picture shows the difference between the universal joint straps from a Dana 60 and a standard 8 3/4 .
I finished running the lines for the air shocks and got some air in them. I put the fill valve in the factory hole in the center of the rear crossmember behind the rear valance, it's completely out of sight. I had to take the shocks back out and flip the so that the air lines are on the inside towards the tank to be able to route the lines away from where the exhaust system is going to live.
I also got the driveshaft installed in the car.
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Much cheaper!
I didn’t want to cut either but the amount needed is easily reversed if you can weld. None of the “popping out of gear” problems associated with the Passon transmission.
My friends Tremic setup for his 71 Charger R/T V code car just came in last week. It was $6300.00 shipped. All the bells and whistles, hydraulic clutch, shift improvement package. It is a direct bolt in in that car,no cutting required. It took months to get his transmission because of the Covid crisis.
I got the power steering pump with cooler installed, and started installing the engine wiring harness setup for electronic ignition.
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Look, I don't want to engage or sidetrack this great thread over the Passon 855 vs Tremec or (whatever)
BUT
IF you don't want to cut your car and you want a 5 speed, the Passon is the answer.
Having said that, I didn't get my 855 because of not wanting to cut my car, I got it because it's a very strong transmission. I'm concerned about repairs, should it need them, and the cost and downtime, even availability of parts, but I've beat on it and will beat harder on it, and if it breaks I'll look at going to a radical 5 speed, along the lines of a Jericho or G-Force or...
The Passon is rated for 700 continuous Ft Lbs of torque, conservative rating, and it looks the part.
BUT
IF you don't want to cut your car and you want a 5 speed, the Passon is the answer.
Having said that, I didn't get my 855 because of not wanting to cut my car, I got it because it's a very strong transmission. I'm concerned about repairs, should it need them, and the cost and downtime, even availability of parts, but I've beat on it and will beat harder on it, and if it breaks I'll look at going to a radical 5 speed, along the lines of a Jericho or G-Force or...
The Passon is rated for 700 continuous Ft Lbs of torque, conservative rating, and it looks the part.
I started installing the rear seat bar kit, it does require that I drill two holes, but I believe that the difference in body roll is worth it.
I finished installing the Hellwig rear sway bar kit, I am pleased with the fitment of the sway bar kit. The rear cover can still be removed from the Dana 60 with the sway bar in place. I have to have the green bearings pressed on to the axles then I can get the rear wheel disc brakes installed.
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Today after working a 14 hour day, I pulled the axles out of the Dana 60,so I can take them on Saturday morning and have the new made in the USA green axle bearings pressed on them. Then I can start installing the Right Stuff rear wheel disc brake kit.
They sell a hose kit that lets you air up the shocks independently, rather than one Shrader valve that tees off to both shocks. Much better IMO
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