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Pulling 440 WITH headers?

koosh

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Will a 440 with Hooker long tubes installed, come out if 69 Super Bee, without the tranny? I really don’t want to go through re-installing headers again with motor in the car. Has A/T.
 
I think you'll struggle going out the top.

It will work if you lift the car off the K-member with engine attached.

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You are joking, right? Headers are more work, so yeah you'll be taking them off and on again.
 
Considering that you have to install headers from the bottom I would say nope its not coming out past the steering box and torsion bars.
 
Considering that you have to install headers from the bottom I would say nope its not coming out past the steering box and torsion bars.
Appreciate that thanks
 
Typically you might be able to remove the header bolts from the heads and squeeze the engine out. Hold the headers in place with bungees, wire, etc. You may have to remove the starter half way and it will depend on how your exhaust system is built. It's worth a try.
 
Only have an engine hoist
That is an engine hoist lifting the front of the car.
The only way you’d remove the engine with the headers on is to do what kiwigtx shows. It seems a little daunting at first but it’s pretty easy to drop the whole k-member. 4 bolts for the k-member, undoing upper ball joints or upper control arms, 2 brake lines, transmission x-member/driveshaft
 
I think the biggest issue is that the headers are too long.
 
Are you thinking of a way to make a job more difficult ? I'm confused. You're pulling the engine for what ? And why do you want to keep the headers bolted to the heads ?
 
Are you thinking of a way to make a job more difficult ? I'm confused. You're pulling the engine for what ? And why do you want to keep the headers bolted to the heads ?
Because im wanting to refresh the motor. It took me 2 says on my back, a lot of cussing. Going from a stock starter to a brand new 440 source mini starter-WHICH DID NOT FIT, back to my original starter, and finally got drivers side in… AND, im 70, with 2 metal knees which are no fun on a concrete floor… done with that.
Why would i want to make a job more difficult?
 
You could unbolt them, and try pulling the motor out while leaving them in.
Then reverse the procedure on installation
 
The super comps I had in my 69 roadrunner had a slip joint and went around the torsion bar. Unbolting and leaving them in would be the best way
 
I always set my headers in the engine bay on most applications. Drop engine in and align or bolt up as I get engine in place. Opposite with removal I unbolt the headers and just leave them in the engine bay, remove engine. May have to tie up or bungee to hold them from falling to the ground
 
Because im wanting to refresh the motor. It took me 2 says on my back, a lot of cussing. Going from a stock starter to a brand new 440 source mini starter-WHICH DID NOT FIT, back to my original starter, and finally got drivers side in… AND, im 70, with 2 metal knees which are no fun on a concrete floor… done with that.
Why would i want to make a job more difficult?
That's my question. See posts #13 & 15. Unbolt headers from heads. I don't recall ever doing this job pulling with headers attached, and that's going back 50 years. Anyway, you're a youngster ! Just don't kneel on magnets, or you'll never get up.
 
That's my question. See posts #13 & 15. Unbolt headers from heads. I don't recall ever doing this job pulling with headers attached, and that's going back 50 years. Anyway, you're a youngster ! Just don't kneel on magnets, or you'll never get up.
 
Putting a motor in from the bottom on a fresh resto is the way to go. HOWEVER, for what's involved I would never opt for that to do a rebuild. Hell, the whole front suspension needs to be undone !! Now, having done both, i can say that unbolting the headers is your best option when pulling the motor out the top no matter how you look at it. In fact, the more stuff you can take off the motor before pulling it the better. I always took the whole top end off.
 
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