QA1 suspension

[Larrry B.]

Why do you think coils are going to handle better than torsion bars? What do you epect to gain by swapping leafs to something else? Or are you looking to change geometry? You still have to deal with bumps. Reinforcing for flex is always a good idea. Moving weight off the nose is good. Most of that can be achived with what basics you have. Be careful how stiff you go on the street. I Have a friend that just finished a home built road race style E type Jaguar with a hopped up 400 sb Chevy 5 speed. It has heims everywhere, stiff springs, and big anti-roll bars. Goes like a rocket straight and thru curves. It's loud, stiff, and bumpy.
Doug

View attachment 1594829

Right now with a 2" drop in the font with Hotchkis leaf sprigs which lowered the rear 1"-1.5", I still have a tenancy to bottom out on certain roads even with Hotchkis Fox adjustable shocks on the stiffest setting.
I destroyed my MSD coil when I hit the road surface hard enough on a dip early one morning, evidenced by a nice flat spot on my header.
Lost power and was stuck on the side of the road for hours until a tow truck was available to pick me up.

Could it be the roads I choose or me pushing the car harder than I should, possibly.

I've repaired / replaced and in most instances upgraded every suspension component on my car (which include stiffening components on the body and frame) all of which has made a difference over the past few years.
So yes, I'm probably looking to change geometry to try something different to see what it can offer.
People can tell you this or that and you can read all you want but you're never going to know until you try it out yourself.
My car has no climate control or sound system (a good Bluetooth speaker solves this for me), I'm only building it to do one thing.

And doesn't leak oil.
While I was at the SEMA show last year, I had a look at the QA1/GERST unit on display. Looked pretty nice. One of the reps was there and asked me what I thought about it so I asked him a Mopar question familiar to many of us."What happens when you put a floor jack under the unit and lift it up like you would with the stock K?" He was puzzled for a bit and gave me the same answer as from years ago when I posed the same question. "As long as you bridge across both tubes, you should be ok." Should. I'm sticking with my improved stock stuff until I see something worth the money /improvement and effort.

I'll have to see about any leaks.
I would assume if this was a rampant problem these setups would not sell well, or at all?
This type of issue reminds me of problems I have with O2 sensors and power steering pumps, sometimes they just go bad... shouldn't stop me from trying.

As for the jack issue:
Portable Car Lift for your Garage or Shop - QuickJack
Something like this (or similar) should help a lot, if I'm going to invest in this setup I might as well get tools that can really help.

 

[dvw]

If it bottoms out you only have 3 options. Stiffen the springs/torsion bars, stiffen the shocks, raise the car. Changing th estyle of supension isn't going to help.
Doug

 

[70ChargerRT]

"Old" thread, but still relevant, at least to me.

I've taken a T-Bar / Leaf Sprint setup as far as I can go. While it's far better than "stock", I'm looking for more on the road. After speaking with Art Morrison on what they offer for Mopars, as nice as their products are it's a LOT more than the QA1 setup. The front clip alone is about $10k. Not to mention the work involved to install, especially the full chassis. Lots of cutting and fabrication to fit. Roadster Shop is even more, Reilly Motorsports and others... I've looked at them all.

I can get the QA1 front and rear with sway bars, 18" wheels, tires a Wilwood brakes for the same amount of $ (or less) than the full chassis from Morrison / Roadster. Still a heavy investment, but more for less so to speak. And the QA1 setup looks pretty comprehensive and well thought out.

This is probably the next big step and within reach toward the end of this year. With this setup and what I've done to the motor, TKX 5-Speed and Sniper EFI I'm getting closer to my goal.

Your next big step is going to be a big let down. So what! I’ve done my motor, sniper x-flo and T-56 Magnum. If you want to run front Ford Pinto Suspension just to say you got it well have at it but youd better start doing some research. Hope you like that lost turning radius and more weight on the front end. There’s been a lot of guys regretted going coil over but hey it’s your car, your choice. I like my set up, handles pretty good.

 

[ckessel]

On the oil leak I was referencing how Jags were known for marking where they were parked with the 6 or v12.

 

[Torkmnstr]

I run the old Gerst setup, great access to my 6.4 swap, handles great. Some downsides, not as much caster as I wanted adjusting all the heims is a PITA.

 

[Kern Dog]

I used to be compelled to call out anyone that dared to brag about their coil over suspensions.
I still don't care for them but if they are happy, I say good for them.
It isn't my money that they're spending and as long as the welds hold, they seem to be safe.
Richard Ehrenberg's arguments against them are still valid.
He railed about their lack of factory durability but it occurred to me...nobody drives these cars 30,000 miles a year on rough roads where the suspension takes a beating. The increased service intervals of heim joints isn't as much of an issue in reality when the cars are only driven 2-3000 miles a year.

 

[Budnicks]

None of what I mention below
is anything to do with Ford Mustang II or Pinto crap
it's all MoPar specific

You can get the QA1 system one piece at a time
you don't need to do the whole thing
you can also get lower CAs with the tabs on them for a Sway Bar
you can correct the bump-stop if you go to the rack & pinion,
it's no big deal,
space the tie rod ends down on the lower balljoint steering arms

the purist will hate you & talk **** too
trust me I've been there

you can also use the stock steering box & even stock Torsion bars too,
depends on what QA1 kit or set up you choose
then don't deal with any of that or a lil' less anyway
of the steer geometry mods

(lack of turning radius is, with the rack, but can be solved easily too, simple redrill)

the whole deal k-member & LCAs, UCAs & dynamic adjt. strut rods
for the TB set up, not for coilovers
it only weighs appr. 38#s in the boxes to ship it, so a tad less, few #s less
minus the weight of the Org. TBs
as you know TBs are heavy
the brakes depending on what brakes you chose,
the brake you choose may weight as much as the whole suspension system does,
depending on what brakes, what brand disc or drum etc.
you can use your stock spindles & lower ball joints too

maybe they bought the wrong stuff
I really don't know the hatred & bias of why
I don't care
the coil overs setups are far different than the kits
for use with the stock style Torsion Bar & stock steering

Not all kits are created equal
most order willy-nilly & don't do the due diligence
don't know what is what
& it's not for everybody
I liked them personally, I like the looks too, functions right
to each their own
do what makes you happy
Talk about people 'lack of creativity & thinking outside the boxes'

I've had the Capps Automotive,
that was really the only MoPar specific stuff made at the time
prior to QA1 (QA1 bought them out)
a few others brands have tried & went belly up or sold out
(hard to please that crowd)
&
then I later went with the QA1 stuff on 3 cars now,
you can get poly bushing on either too
you don't have to run coil overs & or any Hiem joints, depends on what you want
or
if you prefer Hiem joints
even UCAs with dbl adj. so you don't have to remove to do adjusts
again it depends on what you order & want, what you order

I don't care what you want you or what you like I don't put people down for it
you shouldn't care what I want or like
why the animosity/hate towards one system/brand or another
from guys who highly modified the org. parts,
nobody cares there, nobody put them down
or those here that just preach that only Ma-MoPar knows what's the best
(no just they are the cheapest to produce, they need mods)
'all the rest suck' mentality if you don't take their advice

Now are they (QA1's) 100k-mile parts, I doubt they would be
they do also have replaceable/seviceable parts too
that's not what I'm after either, I wanted weight loss,
& I like the look too
(who of US all here hasn't done something on a car "for the looks")
& adjustability, I got both & successfully I may add...
I drove mine on the street & mountain roads for years, very good handling too
decades even now
I have another full set on the shelves
I'd 100% without delay, I'd use if I wanted that style of build again...

I've had no failures, their quality has been really good
I had about 30k miles on the last car,
about 12k on the one before, the car before that was a track only car
2) 68 RRs & a 68 Sport Sat. all b-bodies
One the silver car (street/strip) that went 8.58@ 156
I never had any problems, nice adjustability, more than I needed
way more than stock, especially if you have ride height changes

Pluses;
great for oil pan & header clearance 'without the Torsion bars'
but then you need to do the front steer & coil overs
IMO that's probably a race only setup
it's not as ideal
(If I was going that route I'd do Struts instead, make my own K member
& rack mounts, have a front steer, gain all kinds of room)
& way more weight loss

QA1s weigh 38#s total, for all the tubular stuff I used
with the org. style stock steering mounts & TBs & sway bar mounts on the LCAs
with the SwayBar mounts welded to them on the LCAs
& you can bolt them (SB mounts) on too with a simple strong
5/16" or 3/8" bent 90* steel L-bracket & mount in the with shock mount bolt
been there done that, way long time ago

Minuses;
with the factory steering & TBs you don't gain much if any clearances,
for oil pans, you can if you change to front steer & fab up some mounts
but the steering OE Rear steer goes right thru the middle of the pan area
if you use the org. steering, it will limit what pan choices, you can have
even if you change nothing that's been an issue with MoPars
& headers you can use, especially if you still have torsion bars
same ol' deal with MoPars limited room because of the TBs

you need to do the research
but will save some weight using the full QA1 tubular system

have fun
just don't build your car by committee

adjt units

On the 3rd one, I used these UCAs instead
SPC Dbl adj, not cheap
they have an improved version now too

BUT;
I can't in good faith recommend
the Unisteer (rear steer Omni rack) bolt in stock mounts
the rack & pinion system I used
$1,000 spent, I thought I was doing well, it has room for improvement
& really limits the headers you can use
you can make your own headers (most couldn't do it)
if you want to buy them,
the only ones on a B-body will work is TTI-383178ci (IIRC)
the rack feed lines is in the way
It's on there now not going back...
But also;
It does have great feedback thru the steering, very positive

it needed a lot of bumpsteer correction but no big deal
@cdr (thanks Charlie) turned me onto them
he ran into the same deal as I did

I used Summit Racing I think IIRC
Summit Brand repackaged, Hellwig front 1-1/8" & 1" rear adjt. Sway bars,
the latter really helped it to launch straight, very lil body roll...

I used Edelbrock nitrogen shocks, front & rear,
sort of cheapo shocks, compared to many brands
but for the style of driving I was doing they were just fine
handheld like it was on rails
have the same front & rears on my current 68 RR too,
up here in the sticks windy *** roads

that's my $1.25 take or or leave it, I don't care
just giving you the straight scoop

 

[dvw]

I don't know what scale you used. But there is no way on earth all the QA-1 parts only weigh 38lbs. The rack is slightly lighter than a manual gear box/center link/idler arm/pitman arm. Coil springs are lighter than torsion bars. QA-1 Upper arms are heavier, lower arms and spindles are close. qa-1 K-frame vs modified stocker is also close. Brakes, shocks, sway bars, and outer tie rods are what ever you want to use for either set up. With QA-1 the outer Heims need to be spaced close to 3" to get bump steer close. Turning circle is reduced. All for only $5000 not including brakes (or labor). I've installed this kit for customers. I see very little upside along with some downsides. In my opinion it's snake oil.
Doug

 

[70bigblockdodge]

For money, best improvements are stiffen LCA, urethane bushings, adjustable upper arms, gusset and reinforce the k frame.
The QA1 stuff did add a lot of adjustability to front end (using their stock type replacement parts) I have no use for coilovers and rack and pinion steering.
I was looking for light upper control arms for my drag car, all tubular uppers are heavier than the stamped stock arms.

 

[Budnicks]

I don't know what scale you used. But there is no way on earth all the QA-1 parts only weigh 38lbs. The rack is slightly lighter than a manual gear box/center link/idler arm/pitman arm. Coil springs are lighter than torsion bars. QA-1 Upper arms are heavier, lower arms and spindles are close. qa-1 K-frame vs modified stocker is also close. Brakes, shocks, sway bars, and outer tie rods are what ever you want to use for either set up. With QA-1 the outer Heims need to be spaced close to 3" to get bump steer close. Turning circle is reduced. All for only $5000 not including brakes (or labor). I've installed this kit for customers. I see very little upside along with some downsides. In my opinion it's snake oil.
Doug

View attachment 1596674

Opinions vary

Nope I never said that, you need to go back & read it
so damn dead set to prove someone wrong

Just the QA1 K member, SPC the upper & QA1 lower control arms
& QA1 dynamic adjt. strut rods,
& I didn't list the QA1 tie rod ends/bumpsteer correction
& Moog lower ball joints, probably a few extra #s there...
It was a setup for use with the OE style Torsion bars,
it's not a coil-over system
apple & oranges comparisons

& that didn't include the rack, or brakes or the shocks
or the sway bars, they have nothing to do with QA1
the Rack & pinion 'power', that was from Unisteer,
it also has nothing to do with QA1
you could use your stock torsion bars (look at the LCA's photos)
stock steering box & draglink, tie rods, spindles & brakes etc.
if you wanted too

When I purchased the QA1 Stuff,
it was less than $1,600, for what I listed shown in the photos
UCAs, LCAs, K-Member, Dyn. adj Strut rods & Bumpsteer correction
it's been on my shelf for a while (same thing is like $2,000 now)
I bought 2 sets at the same time, at $1600 each
& not even both sets were anywhere near $5,000
not even if you include the stuff that has nothing to do with QA1
like the spindles (OE free reused), lower ball joints (Moog $79 ea)
Torsion bars (OE free, can reuse) the brakes (SBC $800-ish)
Edelbrock shocks ($100-ish (?) ea)
& rack (Unisteer $1,000, back then) QA1 Bumpsteer kit (IIRC $99-ish)
sway bars for front & rear (Summit/Hellwig $300)
it's all still nowhere near $5,000 for one set
my labor is free, just cost years off my life

it was weighed at the local UPS store,
I think their scales are somewhat accurate, that's what they base the charges on
if anything they are on the heavy side

I didn't say the whole thing only weighed 38#s
just the QA1 stuff in the photos & the SPC UCAs
& that was in the box for shipping, so that was even lighter than 38#s

 

[dvw]

None of what I mention below
is anything to do with Ford Mustang II or Pinto crap
it's all MoPar specific

You can get the QA1 system one piece at a time
you don't need to do the whole thing
you can also get lower CAs with the tabs on them for a Sway Bar
you can correct the bump-stop if you go to the rack & pinion,
it's no big deal,
space the tie rod ends down on the lower balljoint steering arms

the purist will hate you & talk **** too
trust me I've been there

you can also use the stock steering box & even stock Torsion bars too,
depends on what QA1 kit or set up you choose
then don't deal with any of that or a lil' less anyway
of the steer geometry mods

(lack of turning radius is, with the rack, but can be solved easily too, simple redrill)

the whole deal k-member & LCAs, UCAs & dynamic adjt. strut rods
for the TB set up, not for coilovers
it only weighs appr. 38#s in the boxes to ship it, so a tad less, few #s less
minus the weight of the Org. TBs
as you know TBs are heavy
the brakes depending on what brakes you chose,
the brake you choose may weight as much as the whole suspension system does,
depending on what brakes, what brand disc or drum etc.
you can use your stock spindles & lower ball joints too

maybe they bought the wrong stuff
I really don't know the hatred & bias of why
I don't care
the coil overs setups are far different than the kits
for use with the stock style Torsion Bar & stock steering

Not all kits are created equal
most order willy-nilly & don't do the due diligence
don't know what is what
& it's not for everybody
I liked them personally, I like the looks too, functions right
to each their own
do what makes you happy
Talk about people 'lack of creativity & thinking outside the boxes'

I've had the Capps Automotive,
that was really the only MoPar specific stuff made at the time
prior to QA1 (QA1 bought them out)
a few others brands have tried & went belly up or sold out
(hard to please that crowd)
&
then I later went with the QA1 stuff on 3 cars now,
you can get poly bushing on either too
you don't have to run coil overs & or any Hiem joints, depends on what you want
or
if you prefer Hiem joints
even UCAs with dbl adj. so you don't have to remove to do adjusts
again it depends on what you order & want, what you order

I don't care what you want you or what you like I don't put people down for it
you shouldn't care what I want or like
why the animosity/hate towards one system/brand or another
from guys who highly modified the org. parts,
nobody cares there, nobody put them down
or those here that just preach that only Ma-MoPar knows what's the best
(no just they are the cheapest to produce, they need mods)
'all the rest suck' mentality if you don't take their advice

Now are they (QA1's) 100k-mile parts, I doubt they would be
they do also have replaceable/seviceable parts too
that's not what I'm after either, I wanted weight loss,
& I like the look too
(who of US all here hasn't done something on a car "for the looks")
& adjustability, I got both & successfully I may add...
I drove mine on the street & mountain roads for years, very good handling too
decades even now
I have another full set on the shelves
I'd 100% without delay, I'd use if I wanted that style of build again...

I've had no failures, their quality has been really good
I had about 30k miles on the last car,
about 12k on the one before, the car before that was a track only car
2) 68 RRs & a 68 Sport Sat. all b-bodies
One the silver car (street/strip) that went 8.58@ 156
I never had any problems, nice adjustability, more than I needed
way more than stock, especially if you have ride height changes

Pluses;
great for oil pan & header clearance 'without the Torsion bars'
but then you need to do the front steer & coil overs
IMO that's probably a race only setup
it's not as ideal
(If I was going that route I'd do Struts instead, make my own K

 

[dvw]

you can correct the bump-stop if you go to the rack & pinion,
it's no big deal,
space the tie rod ends down on the lower balljoint steering arms



the whole deal k-member & LCAs, UCAs & dynamic adjt. strut rods
for the TB set up, not for coilovers
it only weighs appr. 38#s in the boxes to ship it, so a tad less, few #s less
minus the Torsion bars
as you know TBs are heavy

Not trying to prove anything. Trying to correct false information. These are your quotes. [38 lbs for the whole deal] No way are those parts that light. Maybe you mistyped? Yes bump steer can be corrected. But not everybody is a suspension expert. It should be correct to start with. Then again who wants Heim hanging in single shear close to 2 1/2" off the steering arm. In fact i contacted QA 1 when i installed the kit. They said i didnt understand bump steer. A month later I received the attached sheet from my customer. Then i spoke to a QA1 rep in person. He didnt have a clue that there was an issue. In my response the current price quoted for the kit fo upper and lower arms, spindles, K frame, and rack from Summit or Jegs. I'm here to help those out that may not have experienced the problems that can be encountered. As many of these that I've done its far cheaper and easier to modify the stock stuff in 95% of the applicatons..

Doug

 

[Larrry B.]

If it bottoms out you only have 3 options. Stiffen the springs/torsion bars, stiffen the shocks, raise the car. Changing th estyle of supension isn't going to help.
Doug

Again, all suspension components have been upgraded (including parts mentioned above) with adjusting whenever I thought it would help.
Changing the style of suspension might do exactly what I'm looking for, ultimately there's only one way to find out for myself and the overwhelming majority of what I've been told (in person and on-line) and read points me in this direction.
I understand there's a lot of work involved with creature comforts that will be left out but I'm undeterred,.
There always seems to be more people advising against it (here and other forums), with some that have done it with opinions going in both directions.
Detractors mostly stating the same thing in how the car handles and feels but that's to be expected, esperscially if you're used to or have a preference for T-Bars and Leafsprings.
(This of course all depends on the car / driver / intent...)
The people that have done it and managed to get it setup well seem to love it, that's what I'm going for...

Your next big step is going to be a big let down. So what! I’ve done my motor, sniper x-flo and T-56 Magnum. If you want to run front Ford Pinto Suspension just to say you got it well have at it but youd better start doing some research. Hope you like that lost turning radius and more weight on the front end. There’s been a lot of guys regretted going coil over but hey it’s your car, your choice. I like my set up, handles pretty good.

View attachment 1595257

If it gives me more than what I have now, I don't see a downside.
More aftermarket kits are either running ford spindles, higher end kits seem to be using corvette spindles (at a higher cost, on brakes too), as longs as it works and I can get the correct parts to fit I don't care.
I'd use Mopar spindles if I could...I already know every part I'll need (including wheel and tire sizes) to get everyting to fit without body mods.
Not really concerned on a smaller turning radius, I'm also using a smaller 14" steering wheel which helps a lot.

 

[dvw]

Again, all suspension components have been upgraded (including parts mentioned above) with adjusting whenever I thought it would help.
Changing the style of suspension might do exactly what I'm looking for, ultimately there's only one way to find out for myself and the overwhelming majority of what I've been told (in person and on-line) and read points me in this direction.
I understand there's a lot of work involved with creature comforts that will be left out but I'm undeterred,.
There always seems to be more people advising against it (here and other forums), with some that have done it with opinions going in both directions.
Detractors mostly stating the same thing in how the car handles and feels but that's to be expected, esperscially if you're used to or have a preference for T-Bars and Leafsprings.
(This of course all depends on the car / driver / intent...)
The people that have done it and managed to get it setup well seem to love it, that's what I'm going for...



If it gives me more than what I have now, I don't see a downside.
More aftermarket kits are either running ford spindles, higher end kits seem to be using corvette spindles (at a higher cost, on brakes too), as longs as it works and I can get the correct parts to fit I don't care.
I'd use Mopar spindles if I could...I already know every part I'll need (including wheel and tire sizes) to get everyting to fit without body mods.
Not really concerned on a smaller turning radius, I'm also using a smaller 14" steering wheel which helps a lot.

What gives you the idea that it will give you more than what you have now? Bottoming the suspension happens when the speed of suspension travel exceeds the clearance that is needed. You need to limit the travel speed by stiffening it up (or lightening the car). Changing to a different style suspension with the same or lighter spring rate won't help. But it's your money and time. Go for it. Please report back afterward and give us the results.
Doug

 

[69ChargerR/TSE]

I installed QA1 strut rods and LCAs on my '66 Satellite about a year ago. These are my observations:

+ Installation of strut rods and LCA was simple and straight forward. They seem to do everything at least as well as the old parts.
+ No problems with alignment.
+ The adjustable strut rods allowed us to set up the front end the way we wanted and don't have rubber bushings that deflect under pressure.
+ The car drives and handles really well.

- I can't jack the car under the LCAs the way I used to (probably not a bad thing, actually).
- Can't use the factory sway bar or any of the bolt-on set-ups. The sway bar tabs on the LCAs are inboard. I think the QA1 sway bar might work with the later K-frame, but not the original one for my car. I tried the Hellwig sway bar with the bolt-on tabs, but the sway bar links were too close to my strut bars. There may be a way to make it work, but I gave up and sent the bar back to Summit. QA1 website indicates that I would need to go with a QA1 K-frame if I want to use a front sway bar.

I still have my original LCAs. I might rebuild those and flip the QA1 LCAs if I can't find a way to make a sway bar work. I'm not inclined to to do the K-frame swap. Seems like a lot of work and expense just to add a sway bar.

Firm feel sells tabs that bolt to the lower shock mount, includes hardware.
$100

 

[69ChargerR/TSE]

QA1 is sponsoring me this year, and I am installing the following.

K frame 52315

Sway bar kit front 1.25”52860

Torsion bar adjuster kit 52360

Dynamic strut bars 52312

Control arm kit upper 52305 (Proforged ball joints/not QA1)

Control arm kit lower 52308 (rubber bushing/not greasable)

Still need/want:

Front shocks TS501

Rear shocks TS901

Tie Rod sleeve 52325 for 9/16” or 52324 for 11/16” thread (not sure if I need 11/16”’s)

I was in the process of restoring my original suspension, I bought everything to redo my original.
In December I applied for their sponsorship.
I was approved in January.

I was just going to do the UCA/LCA and strut rods.
I have mounting tabs to mount the original sway bar to the QA1 LCA’s, so that wasn’t going to be an issue.

Then I noticed my factory k frame drivers side LCA mount had been repaired, and it was broken again.

Instead of trying to repair it, I opted for QA1’s k frame, and sway bar.

My original sway bar was being rubbed by my tired on turns (15 in. x 8 in/ with Cobra GT, P245/60R15).

The QA1 K-frame 52315 is installed, I did have to use the QA1 steering box shims for the Borgeson steering box.

I did reuse the original grade 8 bolts on the rear of the frame, and purchased grade 8 5/8x4.5” bolts for the front.

I’m contacting QA1 Monday, to see why my idler arm is loose in their mount.
I have a TRW idler arm, looks like the Moog K7041. Maybe I’m missing washers on either side, between the arm and the mount.

I’m excited to see how it handles when completed.

I am going to finish restoring my original parts, and see if I can reweld the broken mount on factory K frame.
I’ll keep all the original parts, in case I need them.

 

[70ChargerRT]

QA1 is sponsoring me this year, and I am installing the following.

K frame 52315

Sway bar kit front 1.25”52860

Torsion bar adjuster kit 52360

Dynamic strut bars 52312

Control arm kit upper 52305 (Proforged ball joints/not QA1)

Control arm kit lower 52308 (rubber bushing/not greasable)

Still need/want:

Front shocks TS501

Rear shocks TS901

Tie Rod sleeve 52325 for 9/16” or 52324 for 11/16” thread (not sure if I need 11/16”’s)

I was in the process of restoring my original suspension, I bought everything to redo my original.
In December I applied for their sponsorship.
I was approved in January.

I was just going to do the UCA/LCA and strut rods.
I have mounting tabs to mount the original sway bar to the QA1 LCA’s, so that wasn’t going to be an issue.

Then I noticed my factory k frame drivers side LCA mount had been repaired, and it was broken again.

Instead of trying to repair it, I opted for QA1’s k frame, and sway bar.

My original sway bar was being rubbed by my tired on turns (15 in. x 8 in/ with Cobra GT, P245/60R15).

The QA1 K-frame 52315 is installed, I did have to use the QA1 steering box shims for the Borgeson steering box.

I did reuse the original grade 8 bolts on the rear of the frame, and purchased grade 8 5/8x4.5” bolts for the front.

I’m contacting QA1 Monday, to see why my idler arm is loose in their mount.
I have a TRW idler arm, looks like the Moog K7041. Maybe I’m missing washers on either side, between the arm and the mount.

I’m excited to see how it handles when completed.

I am going to finish restoring my original parts, and see if I can reweld the broken mount on factory K frame.
I’ll keep all the original parts, in case I need them.

I’m happy you’re getting sponsored by them. I absolutely did not like their K-frame. Sent it back to summit. After shimming the Borgeson and then the way the sway bar mounted to their K-frame, nope, didn’t like it all and I called them and told them what I didn’t like it about. I’m running Viking adjustable shocks.

 

[69ChargerR/TSE]

I’m happy you’re getting sponsored by them. I absolutely did not like their K-frame. Sent it back to summit. After shimming the Borgeson and then the way the sway bar mounted to their K-frame, nope, didn’t like it all and I called them and told them what I didn’t like it about. I’m running Viking adjustable shocks.

View attachment 1603632

The QA1 sway bar is similar mounting to the 1970 style change, without going through the K-frame.

I agree on the Shimming, i had it strip out. Horrible design maybe add a welded nut the thickness of the shims.

 

[70ChargerRT]

The QA1 sway bar is similar mounting to the 1970 style change, without going through the K-frame.

I agree on the Shimming, i had it strip out. Horrible design maybe add a welded nut the thickness of the shims.

View attachment 1603767

View attachment 1603768

If you look at the way the Qa1 coil over set up is made that’s the way the sway bar needs to be mounted on their tubular K-frame. You’d figure after a 20+ year design Qa1 would have tried to improve on it but I think they want everyone buying the coil over set up. Maybe In racing you might be OK the way the sway bar is mounted but out here where I live the way my car sets one speed bump and I’d rip it off with the way their sway arm mounts.

 

[Kern Dog]

What does a guy have to do to get a company to SPONSOR you and send you free stuff to try?
I wouldn't swap to a coil over in my Chargers but I'd test out the torsion bar based replacement stuff.