I’m going to try ARP studs on the steering box mounting, and shim if as needed.
QA1 suspension
- Thread starter Vince63fury
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GASSR
Well-Known Member
Probably posting too late on this. QA-1 did not used to make a k member for the 62-65 cars. I have a '66 tubular K member I had to modify with mounts in the stock location. After that, I have installed the 66 style to set my motor back the extra 1.5 " ... in my mind the kit saves weight, gave me the set back I needed, added the fittings for an anti roll bar (missing on my 63 Dodge). The strut rods are more positive than the factory ones. I retained the torsion bar setup. As for jacking, I have a piece of 2x6 that bridges the two tubes perfectly. Overall very happy with it.
This is somewhat like what weight oil should I run in my engine. I have 2, full front tubular suspensions, probably will be 3 in the future . You can have the stock stuff, it's seems to always be in contact with something or clunking. Don't remember having issues with it way back in the day, but don't like it now. Yes, you should bridge the 2 tubes when jacking the front up, I don't do the twist the unibody one wheel at a time thing.
Yeah, it's my money.
Yeah, it's my money.
ARP studs for the win.
QA1 Front torsion bar suspension is installed.
Waiting for the QA1 rear suspension and sway bar to arrive, as well as the QA1 shocks.
Waiting for the QA1 rear suspension and sway bar to arrive, as well as the QA1 shocks.
So the QA1 rear suspension and front shocks arrived.
QuebecRollin
Well-Known Member
How did the installation go?
I’m interested in the K-frame fitment.
It seems that the reviews are either completely positive or completely negative.
If it is just an issue of adding a shim between the frame and steering box that doesn’t seem horrible.
I’m not sure what to make of the reviews. Possibly people getting way too upset about shimming the box? Possibly something more substantial?
I’m interested in the K-frame fitment.
It seems that the reviews are either completely positive or completely negative.
If it is just an issue of adding a shim between the frame and steering box that doesn’t seem horrible.
I’m not sure what to make of the reviews. Possibly people getting way too upset about shimming the box? Possibly something more substantial?
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Two months have gone by and he hasn't posted a glowing review?
One of my gripes about the aftermarket stuff is the flimsy appearance. I used to build homes and commercial structures where we were required to meet earthquake standards. To me, more structure means more strength. When I see a tubular frame with long unsupported areas, I envision excessive flex. Look at the unsupported area between the yellow arrows.
Then we have this angle. That sway bar hangs way too low. The 6" long end link puts the end of the sway bar right at or below the rim edge. This is a bad design.
One of my gripes about the aftermarket stuff is the flimsy appearance. I used to build homes and commercial structures where we were required to meet earthquake standards. To me, more structure means more strength. When I see a tubular frame with long unsupported areas, I envision excessive flex. Look at the unsupported area between the yellow arrows.
Then we have this angle. That sway bar hangs way too low. The 6" long end link puts the end of the sway bar right at or below the rim edge. This is a bad design.
QuebecRollin
Well-Known Member
I’m feeling the same way at the moment. I want to like it for the clean look and weight savings but I’m just not there.
I’m also a builder so I understand your prospective regarding structural integrity.
I wanted to use their lower control arms as well but the sway bar mount has me scratching my head.
That’s what lead me to the K-frame…figured they would work better together.
Now I’m thinking I just want to box the stock lower C arms and keep the stock K-frame.
I need to see some stellar reviews with details before I’m going this route.
I’m also a builder so I understand your prospective regarding structural integrity.
I wanted to use their lower control arms as well but the sway bar mount has me scratching my head.
That’s what lead me to the K-frame…figured they would work better together.
Now I’m thinking I just want to box the stock lower C arms and keep the stock K-frame.
I need to see some stellar reviews with details before I’m going this route.
I like the QA1 front suspension, installation was easy. Only thing I would include with the kit is grade 8 bolts, larger washers, and steering box mount studs.
Alignment was easier to get the newer parts, with the adjustable strut rods, making the steering and handling definitely more stable.
As I drive it, it’ll settle in.
Alignment was easier to get the newer parts, with the adjustable strut rods, making the steering and handling definitely more stable.
As I drive it, it’ll settle in.
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That is good. What about the rear system?
I still need to install the rear sway bar.
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I know that I may appear like a dinosaur that is afraid to try new things but that isn't the case entirely.
Yeah, I like tradition but I'm sensible enough to accept change if it is an improvement.
The stock B body K member isn't a cast iron lump...
Bare, mine was 45 lbs with the reinforcements that I did to it. Look at how much more stiff it appears compared to the tubular ones...
Can anyone be serious when they claim that the tubular design is better at resisting torsional movement and Parallelogramming?
Yeah, I like tradition but I'm sensible enough to accept change if it is an improvement.
The stock B body K member isn't a cast iron lump...
Bare, mine was 45 lbs with the reinforcements that I did to it. Look at how much more stiff it appears compared to the tubular ones...
Can anyone be serious when they claim that the tubular design is better at resisting torsional movement and Parallelogramming?
QuebecRollin
Well-Known Member
How about adding some gussets to the QA1?
I know that it’s not favorable to by a new part and immediately have to modify it but sometimes that’s just how things work in the aftermarket.
I know that it’s not favorable to by a new part and immediately have to modify it but sometimes that’s just how things work in the aftermarket.
GASSR
Well-Known Member
More common that you think! The K member pictured above was modified to use 62-65 motor mounts in the original location ... as QA-1 did not make one for these cars. Note the two slots rather than the single ones on the later K members. Using it also lets you add a sway bar and provide handy tie downs. It is 1 of 1 and still available should anyone be interested.
QuebecRollin
Well-Known Member
Well, I decided to give it a try on my 68’ coronet R/T.
I ordered the frame, upper and lower arms, strut rods and sway bar.
I’m going to pair it with Bergman idler/pitman/tierods/column bearing and a Borgeson box.
The parts arrived and they look great to me but we’ll see once the car goes together.
What ARP hardware should I be ordering for the steering box?
I’m just going to anticipate shimming the box and get setup for that in advance so I don’t get delayed waiting for a few pieces of hardware.
I ordered the frame, upper and lower arms, strut rods and sway bar.
I’m going to pair it with Bergman idler/pitman/tierods/column bearing and a Borgeson box.
The parts arrived and they look great to me but we’ll see once the car goes together.
What ARP hardware should I be ordering for the steering box?
I’m just going to anticipate shimming the box and get setup for that in advance so I don’t get delayed waiting for a few pieces of hardware.
QuebecRollin
Well-Known Member
Thank you. Did you cut the frame side down a bit?
They don’t come up on ARPs site when I search for AR2.500-1b
I don’t see them on summit but found them on another site as a special order item.
https://ljrc1.com/item/4579633-12-stud-2500-long-broached
Does that look right?
On summit I can find a Dorman grade 8 stud that has those same specs but that’s the best I could come up with.
They don’t come up on ARPs site when I search for AR2.500-1b
I don’t see them on summit but found them on another site as a special order item.
https://ljrc1.com/item/4579633-12-stud-2500-long-broached
Does that look right?
On summit I can find a Dorman grade 8 stud that has those same specs but that’s the best I could come up with.
Call ARP Custom shop
1 (805) 525-1497
I did cut the frame side(shown in the photo).
Also used blue lock-tite when I installed them into the QA1 frame.
Use the ARP lube on the threads when installing the nuts.
I used 1 QA1 spacer only, on the frame side.
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