Fewer and fewer each year, unfortunately. I had a guy in N KY that recorded my 62 radiator back in 04ish. Still going strong. He is now out of business.
Yep, like I said my shop just down the road will be done on repairs when the Father stops "wanting something to do". He's now about 77 years old.
And with fewer shops, they get more expensive. I spent $300 to re-core the original in Baby Blue in 2013, it was $800 to do the current GTX last year.
Yes, there are still some old school shops around to do radiator work. Yes Glen-Ray does not make their own cores, but Bob does spec the type of cores he has built for himself. Remember there is a difference between a $400 recore and a $1400 restoration of a radiator. The cheap recore means the guy doing it is working for next to nothing and using the CHEAPEST core he can find because he thinks he is doing you a favor, which lots of times turns out to not be such a favor after all. I understand not everyone has a caviar budget also. Bob does stock some used radiators to restore for customers but most of his work is restoring a customer's existing rads and new reproduction units also. Even if you aren't in the market for a Glen-Ray rad Bob will also answer heating and cooling questions too.
I'm was going to ask: how do we know it's your car? When was the last time the factory gauge was calibrated against what standard? Or is this a simulated instrument panel setup?.......but, instead, I won't say anything .......just my opinion......of course.....
But you DID NOT ANSWER THE QUESTIONS POSED......and that's astandard B.S. answer to a question you cannot answer or not know the answer....it's called "tap dancing".....90+% of the subscribers will believe in the example.....just answer the question...and if you don't know, just say you don't know......it's that's simple......
Do you remember when that was, I know a couple of friends that bought u.s. radiators, had no problems.
4 or 5 years ago, at least.
not an original product , but I`ve had a griffin 29x19 alum. rad in my 68 fastback for about (I forget how long) , I accidently pulled the floor jack out from under the car while trying to move it sideways a little , back when I was first building it .
THANK YOU FOR YOUR OUTSTANDING and expected response ....As I invited everyone, INCLUDING you, on the forum to view my photo garage of the '70 GTX. RJ's Toy. It's fairly well represented in pix, but PLEASE ask any questions about its restoration...I've owned the car for ~ 35 years....it includes engine rebuild....with clearance specs of pistons and rings in their assigned bores, Cleveite bearings by location..mains & rods by cylinder, MELLINGS HV oil pump, bolting torque on the bearings hardware (ARP stuff), Crane cam specs @ 4° retard, carb upgrade changes, cooling system improvement, dyno runs on the engine with EGT of each cylinder, and if you can understand the thermodynamic calculations of the heat gain/heat losses with velocity calcs, of the coolin system and gallons/minute flow (and its NOT BASED on TOTAL HP PRODUCED but on heat load in Btu/hr converted from the horse power produced at 100° ambient temp to determine reject heat load (80% hp to the dyno, 20% parasitic losses ..estimated incl reject heat load). I pay to have the professional machining work and checked by me to my specs, witnessed first run start up, transmission and Dana 60 and rebuild by ALLEN DRIVELINE, and using Timken tapered bearing axle bearings. All this info has been presented over the years, search for it if interested......oh...BTW....I still use the Prestolite Dual point distributor recurved, to my specs and not NGK spark plugs but Champion UJ-11G or HO-8A type. I invite you to send me a PM to discuss at your convenience ......
