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Roadbird's 1970 Roadrunner restoration.

Well folks it's been awhile since I posted anything here on my thread. Basically today I have been scrapping seam sealer off on the interior floor pan in anticipation of completing my move to my new home. And begin working on my 70RR. I plan on replacing partial floor pans and keeping the drive shaft hump. Here are some pics.

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Here it is.
 

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Isn't it fun scraping all that off? Are you going to replace the pan in front of the rear seat also? If you are going to replace the floor braces too, make sure you mark them with a grease pen or use masking tape so you can put the new ones back in the same place.
 
Isn't it fun scraping all that off? Are you going to replace the pan in front of the rear seat also? If you are going to replace the floor braces too, make sure you mark them with a grease pen or use masking tape so you can put the new ones back in the same place.

Oh yeah, I had fun doing it, because I didn't have anything to do today and I was dreaming of how the car looked when it was all done and imaginatively driving it all around. It was fun and can't wait to start. I should be moving in to my new home sometime this month (sale pending) sign is up at the new house and just waiting to close the deal. Here are few more pics of what I scraped off today.

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Here it is.
 

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I hear ya. It can be time consuming but we all know it has to be done.Hope everything is moving forward for you on the house.
 
It sure is but not fast enough. I'm revving to move and start this project because I feel like I'm dieing to drive it already. Can't stand it I really just want to smoke some tires right now.
 
Great progess, those lower rear corners at the back glass does not look so fun but I bet you make them look like new! Keep up the good work!
 
Great progess, those lower rear corners at the back glass does not look so fun but I bet you make them look like new! Keep up the good work!

You bet it's going to be fun. And yes my plan is to replace those corners and everything else thats rusted back there. I also plan on removing the roof skin and cutting out rusted metal and replacing them. Not replacing the whole roof btw. Once I move to my new place and settle in I'm going to heat and scrape off undercoating from the bottom of the car and then media blast the entire car. Alot of work ahead for Roxanne but I look forward to it. Thanks FBBO folks for your replies, information and encouragement.
 
you asked about 3:91 gears in another thread. i have 3;91 in my hemi coronet with 15"x?x60's. ? is i am not in the shop to look. its in a new moser 60 system. the reason i put the 3;91's in is i have a tremec 5 speed. in hindsight i should of put 4;10-11 in it due to the 5 speed. i think this all boils down to what your intensions are for the car. i drive mine a fair bit with some 100-200 mile trips but mostly local driving. i doubt it will see the track. i have another brand car with 3;91's in it but with a 4 speed auto trans and much more hp that i take to the track the odd time.
if you have further questions p.m. me. rick
 

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you asked about 3:91 gears in another thread. i have 3;91 in my hemi coronet with 15"x?x60's. ? is i am not in the shop to look. its in a new moser 60 system. the reason i put the 3;91's in is i have a tremec 5 speed. in hindsight i should of put 4;10-11 in it due to the 5 speed. i think this all boils down to what your intensions are for the car. i drive mine a fair bit with some 100-200 mile trips but mostly local driving. i doubt it will see the track. i have another brand car with 3;91's in it but with a 4 speed auto trans and much more hp that i take to the track the odd time.
if you have further questions p.m. me. rick

Thanks and I will when I get to that part of my Roadrunner restoration or when I'm ready to make a deal on this 8 3/4" 3.91:1 ratio. My intent is to see if I can talk her down on her price from $500 to maybe $350. I have some money right now but I'm holding it until I move into my new place and Buy me a 60 gallon air compressor for my new garage and mainly to operate my Eastwood dual blaster. Do you think that air compressor can handle a dual master blaster? 200psi btw.
 
Thanks and I will when I get to that part of my Roadrunner restoration or when I'm ready to make a deal on this 8 3/4" 3.91:1 ratio. My intent is to see if I can talk her down on her price from $500 to maybe $350. I have some money right now but I'm holding it until I move into my new place and Buy me a 60 gallon air compressor for my new garage and mainly to operate my Eastwood dual blaster. Do you think that air compressor can handle a dual master blaster? 200psi btw.

For compressors:

The big thing you want to look at is the CFM (cubic feet per minute) rating at 90 PSI. For example, mine is rated at 9.0 SCFM @ 90PSI. That means that I can run air tools that use up to 9.0 CFM at 90 PSI and it can keep up. If I run a tool that uses 10.0 CFM, then the size of the tank becomes important. If my tank starts out at 175 PSI, then my 60 gallons can go awhile and still power 10CFM before the pressure drops below 90 PSI and my tool no longer works well. At that point I nee to stop and let the compressor fill up again.

The Eastwood dual blaster you wan to use should have a similar rating on it. Check that out and compare.

If your compressor has a rating lower than the tool you plan to use, you just need to take more breaks and drink more beer! :VB toast:
 
For compressors:

The big thing you want to look at is the CFM (cubic feet per minute) rating at 90 PSI. For example, mine is rated at 9.0 SCFM @ 90PSI. That means that I can run air tools that use up to 9.0 CFM at 90 PSI and it can keep up. If I run a tool that uses 10.0 CFM, then the size of the tank becomes important. If my tank starts out at 175 PSI, then my 60 gallons can go awhile and still power 10CFM before the pressure drops below 90 PSI and my tool no longer works well. At that point I nee to stop and let the compressor fill up again.

The Eastwood dual blaster you wan to use should have a similar rating on it. Check that out and compare.

If your compressor has a rating lower than the tool you plan to use, you just need to take more breaks and drink more beer! :VB toast:

Yeah I got to check it out. I still have the dual blaster back in it's original box. I haven't even tried it out yet.
 
Roadbird, hate to be brutally honest, but, your compressor you speak of is best suited for filling up tires and maybe running a few air tools. Running a blasting operation will cause the compressor to run at 100% load all the time, your elec bill won't like you, your compressor won't like you, and your car won't like you. Ever hear of using a dull knife, a rounded-off screwdriver, a hammer with the head falling off? As mentioned earlier, its all cfm. For example, my compressor I use for media blasting is rated at 185cfm, and I can run any air pressure I want up to 100psi or so. Its all air volume. For another example, you will probably take 4 hrs to media blast your one fender, hoods more. If you got the time, have fun!
 
Roadbird, hate to be brutally honest, but, your compressor you speak of is best suited for filling up tires and maybe running a few air tools. Running a blasting operation will cause the compressor to run at 100% load all the time, your elec bill won't like you, your compressor won't like you, and your car won't like you. Ever hear of using a dull knife, a rounded-off screwdriver, a hammer with the head falling off? As mentioned earlier, its all cfm. For example, my compressor I use for media blasting is rated at 185cfm, and I can run any air pressure I want up to 100psi or so. Its all air volume. For another example, you will probably take 4 hrs to media blast your one fender, hoods more. If you got the time, have fun!

Yeah I know, that is why I'm looking for large volume cfm's air compressor to buy. I saw one brand new here at Harbor Freight I think 60 gallon capacity at 220 volts. I'm going back over there and take a look at how much cfms. Thanks btw for that brutally honest opinion? I don't think so, not in my book. I love the facts and experience of others especially when they communicate from trial and error. Nothing is going to stop me from doing what I want to do with Roxanne. Right now: Move in and get settled, go check the cfm rating on that 60 gallon air compressor and hopefully buy it if it meets the same or better rating like yours. And buy that 3.91:1 ratio rear differential (complete). Say you know anybody who might have 3 brake drums for 1970 Roadrunner? All 11 inch drums, 2 for the rear and 1 for the front driver side?
 
Dude, be ready to spend 15K for a compressor like mine. You will NEVER get anything remotely close to what you will need from HF. You may want to just farm out the big stuff like the body and doors, fenders, hood, etc. to a media blast facility, keep you small equipment for hindges, bolts, nuts, battery tray (if its even salvageable) and blast yourself with your small equipment. I'm telling you that you don't want to spend the money just to media blast it with bought equipment for media blasting.
 
Hi John, been there myself for two years ago and this is how I solved it, first I bought a small compressor (2.0 hp) that I gave away to my neighbour the next week, the other one (4.0 hp) was also to small so I sold it to a friend for tire pumping etc.
Then I bought a used 4.4 kW (5.5 hp), 53 gallons tank that flows 18 cfm and I set it for 140 psi and it works for me. Payed like $ 300 for it. This is a 400 volts machine.

I would aim for a 5.5 kW (7.5 hp) with a 70 gallon tank if I would get a new one, my 4.4 kW has to work pretty hard to keep up with the blaster. But they get really big, over 440 lbs!

Try to stay away from HF and get a quality compressor, a china compressor does not have spare parts and if you change oil and filter and empty the tank from water on a regular basis they will last for long. It is like welding machines, better to by a used proffesional machine instead of a new china crap!

P.S. Remember not to use the small sized hoses like 1/4" and so, get up to 1/2", otherwise you will loose a lot of cfm, and keep the hose short between the compressor and blaster tank, no need to have 100 feet if it is enough with 25!

This is the type I use:
http://www.defenda.com/shop/3246---gebe-kompressor-powerair-200/5-5t4/
 

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Hi John, been there myself for two years ago and this is how I solved it, first I bought a small compressor (2.0 hp) that I gave away to my neighbour the next week, the other one (4.0 hp) was also to small so I sold it to a friend for tire pumping etc.
Then I bought a used 4.4 kW (5.5 hp), 53 gallons tank that flows 18 cfm and I set it for 140 psi and it works for me. Payed like $ 300 for it. This is a 400 volts machine.

I would aim for a 5.5 kW (7.5 hp) with a 70 gallon tank if I would get a new one, my 4.4 kW has to work pretty hard to keep up with the blaster. But they get really big, over 440 lbs!

Try to stay away from HF and get a quality compressor, a china compressor does not have spare parts and if you change oil and filter and empty the tank from water on a regular basis they will last for long. It is like welding machines, better to by a used proffesional machine instead of a new china crap!

P.S. Remember not to use the small sized hoses like 1/4" and so, get up to 1/2", otherwise you will loose a lot of cfm, and keep the hose short between the compressor and blaster tank, no need to have 100 feet if it is enough with 25!

This is the type I use:
http://www.defenda.com/shop/3246---gebe-kompressor-powerair-200/5-5t4/

Thanks and that looks pretty good. Okay then, I'll keep this in mind. I'm thinking of spending about maybe $700 - $800 on a maybe double pumper floor model then. Thanks Swede and you too Donny. I think I got it now as much CFM as I can afford but the higher the better, thanks again you all.
 
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