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Roger's Roadrunner

I am at the same point with my Dart. I plan to put a few welds on the underside where it overlaps the tunnel then I will rust bullet the seam, cover with everglass and smooth out. Then I will spray truck bed liner over the whole thing.
 
i didn't think of smoothing out with the everglass,thanks for the idea.
 
which one? If it's the 6-pack one the wife wants me to put that one on.

naturally it's the six pak....but at this point I think I'd settle for a good stocker, without the Autozone crappy hood pins (in the wrong spot like mine!)
 
maybe we can do a staight cross the board trade.i still have my stock one with no hood pins.PM me where you live in ohio,maybe we can meet somewhere in the middle.
 
Did get the floor braces in and also the floor pans in.Didn't get pictures taken before i went in to surgery but will get them as soon as i can.

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Any progress?
Did get the braces and floor pans in but didn't have the camera to take photos. Will get them up as soon as i can. Have to make some adjustment where the pans meet the firewall.

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Did get the braces and floor pans in but didn't get photos of them before i had them done before surgery.Will get them up as soon as i can.Have some minor repairs to work on where the pans meet the firewall.

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multiple replies were caused by my computer as it did not show i posted a reply.My computer was having a brain fart.
 
There good at brain farts! lol looking forward to pic, Thanks..
 
Did get some work done before i went and had surgery,but also did some work today.Finished welding the floor to the tranny hump and iside thr door jamb, then ground down the welds and sprayed primer down with my good arm. SDC10274.jpgSDC10275.jpgSDC10276.jpgSDC10281.jpg

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Thanks jay,had to see if i could still get some things done with one arm in a sling.There is a spot on the driver's side floor that will need some open areas at the firewall seal that even i know i will need both hands to fix. I do know i can handle the grinder.air sander,welder, and probably hand sander w/changing paper.So with still having some limitations, i can still sand down the doors,fenders,trunk,etc...I will handle these tools with my safety in mind.Since i'll be off for a few weeks,maybe i can get caught up a little from the time when i'm on the road.
 
Great progress! Just looked at the pictures in thread #62 and it is a hole new car! Every hour on the project counts and it makes a differens, keep up the good work!
 
SDC10353.jpgSDC10354.jpgSDC10355.jpgSDC10356.jpgSDC10357.jpgSDC10358.jpgGot a little more done. Doors repainted on the inside,Torsion bars in. Replaced the fender to splash shield seal. Mine were gone so i improvised using the cab seal from the ones i took off my old dodge p/u.Worked real good in case anyone needs to replace theirs in a pinch.

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Forgot these photosSDC10351.jpgSDC10352.jpgThe part that goes over the lip from the cab seal fits perfect on the splash sheild edge and fits real snug with weatherstrip adhesive.

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Next i want fix the floor pan by the gas pedal where i cut too much off the old floor,adjust the front end height.Then i would like to primer the underneath of the floor. Question: Should i primer,undercoat, then paint or should i just primer,then paint? Hopefully the car won't see alot of wet weather. Then i want to drop my engine and tranny in so i can have more room in the garage.

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Good tip Roger! Good work on the doors. JMO, I wouldn't use undercoating per say, but Body Schutz or Bedliner. Either way, I wouldn't try to paint over any of those. They do make tintable bedliner. The coronet has primer, paint, schutz....The bird, Ecoat on the fresh tin, then a couple coats Rust bullet, then Bedliner. So all depends on what you're doing I guess. Paint adds another barrier of protection between air/moisture and metal.
 
Thanks Will. What i am looking for is a good clean look underneath in body color, but still offer me protection from rocks,debris, and anything else that might fly unde the car that gets kicked up from the tires.
 
Got a little bit of work done. Took the rear bumper off so I can start working on the back. The rear 1/4's were sanded b4 we moved. Also sanded the roof inside and primered. Sanded down the hood as there was some cracks showing thru the bodywork where the scoop was mounted to the hood. One question on this is, since the scoop is fiberglass and hood is steel, what is best to repair the area where the edge of the scoop is coming up? Do I just use fiberglass resin and bodyfill over or something else. Also, I know I will probably go full skin on the left quarter, but want to know if I should go full skin on the right one also or do you guys/gals think I can get by with a lower patch. Can't remember how much bodyfill I put on the right. Hopefully not as much as what is on the left 1/4. Always look forward and respect any comments.

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Coming along nicely. They weren't afraid to use a little bondo were they?
 
Well, I gotta admit that I was the one that put it there back in the late 80's when I went to trade school (bodyshop). The last 2 weeks of our course, the trainers would let us bring our own cars in to work on. My car had a wrinkle down the whole side from a garage door frame. I didn't do it. So I had 2 weeks to strip car to bare metal, seal it, do the bodywork primer and paint. The lower part of that 1/4 has at least 3/4 inch of body filler on it. Fast forward 20 years, here I am.
 
Well, I gotta admit that I was the one that put it there back in the late 80's when I went to trade school (bodyshop). The last 2 weeks of our course, the trainers would let us bring our own cars in to work on. My car had a wrinkle down the whole side from a garage door frame. I didn't do it. So I had 2 weeks to strip car to bare metal, seal it, do the bodywork primer and paint. The lower part of that 1/4 has at least 3/4 inch of body filler on it. Fast forward 20 years, here I am.

paying for past sins .. just kidding. I respect what your are doing and almost feel like i might be able to by reading these threads. At least if nothing else i'm learning enough to know how it ought to be done! thanks for sharing!
 
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