Roger's Roadrunner

[Propwash]

That is a very good tip 747 points out. Don't limit yourself to just welded panel laps either. Anywhere you can think of dirt/moisture settling is a good place to lay some on....Outer wheelhouse lips (inside), front to rear pan seam, side cowl panel lips are all good places to lay that stuff on. Like mentioned, brush on works well (Evercoat makes a real good paintable/brushable). I use Dynatron Seam Sealer out of a tube for all seams under the car like pan to rails, shackle to pan and so on... It leaves a cleaner seam than the brushable and lays on real nice. Dynatron is a division of 3M

Work is looking great Roger! Great to see you finding some time for you bird. Keep on rolling!




Here's where I buy the stuff. TP Tools have been absolutely great to deal with over the years.

http://www.tptools.com/Dynatron-Auto-Body-Seam-Sealer,1812.html?b=s*seam+sealer

 

[roadrunnerman]

Trying to keep the ball rolling. Took some time to get my console, kick panels painted, and cleaned up my sun visors. Had them sitting in my trunk and decided to do something with them and get some stuff out.

 

[TheSwede]

Nice work Rog! That console really shines, wish I had one....

 

[tallhair]

Trying to keep the ball rolling. Took some time to get my console, kick panels painted, and cleaned up my sun visors. Had them sitting in my trunk and decided to do something with them and get some stuff out.

great stuff Roger. does anyone know how to minimize appearance/hide to a degree the crack in the rear of the console where someone leaned on it? Mine has the same crack as i'm sure hundreds of others do.

 

[99ss]

Sweet, spruced that right up

 

[747mopar]

great stuff Roger. does anyone know how to minimize appearance/hide to a degree the crack in the rear of the console where someone leaned on it? Mine has the same crack as i'm sure hundreds of others do.

Before I decided to make my own console I completely restored the original which had several cracks. What I did was sand the underside of the crack to a gradual V being careful to not disturb the top side, with it roughed up with 80 grit I then started building it back up with layers of fiberglass until it was thicker than original. If your really careful the crack should be nearly invisible but if not a little filler and some careful texturing should finish it off. It is important to build the strength back into it so it will not come back. If you've never done fiberglass repair it's pretty simple, make sure you wear cloves. Any Napa, Autozone or Walmart should sell fiberglass repair kits just make sure you use the cloth and apply multiple layers. Good luck

 

[Propwash]

Nice work Roger! Forgot to mention another thing I have for you on the phone, a woodgrain vinyl overlay for your console. Believe I got it from legendary.

 

[hunt2elk]

Nice work Roger! Forgot to mention another thing I have for you on the phone, a woodgrain vinyl overlay for your console. Believe I got it from legendary.

I see Classic is now selling them also for $20.

 

[tallhair]

Before I decided to make my own console I completely restored the original which had several cracks. What I did was sand the underside of the crack to a gradual V being careful to not disturb the top side, with it roughed up with 80 grit I then started building it back up with layers of fiberglass until it was thicker than original. If your really careful the crack should be nearly invisible but if not a little filler and some careful texturing should finish it off. It is important to build the strength back into it so it will not come back. If you've never done fiberglass repair it's pretty simple, make sure you wear cloves. Any Napa, Autozone or Walmart should sell fiberglass repair kits just make sure you use the cloth and apply multiple layers. Good luck

thanks for the tip!

 

[Ron 73]

Console looking good there Roger, Id like to find one of those myself one day.. Never know what may pop up, I was looking at your window corners to and you did a great job on them, With my stick welder i had before i sold it, i sure was not a neat "boy that looks good" welder lol, I hope my new one ill get a bit better, i have plenty to practice on.. Continued good luck to ya!

 

[Propwash]

You'll do well Ron. I have faith buddy

 

[GrabberOrange69]

Wonderful work...you are to be commended! Can't wait to see the finished product.

 

[Ron 73]

You'll do well Ron. I have faith buddy

I do to Will, But something tells me a console isint going to pop up and be had as easy as other things lol.. Maybe im wrong but i just don't hear of them to often.. My RR i had back in the day didn't have one but it was a 4-speed, bench seat post car.. I always kind of liked the pop out windows so to say, only about a inch or so if i remember right, im getting old, and thats a long time ago! 45 degrees out with sun, have a good day gents!

 

[747mopar]

I do to Will, But something tells me a console isint going to pop up and be had as easy as other things lol.. Maybe im wrong but i just don't hear of them to often.. My RR i had back in the day didn't have one but it was a 4-speed, bench seat post car.. I always kind of liked the pop out windows so to say, only about a inch or so if i remember right, im getting old, and thats a long time ago! 45 degrees out with sun, have a good day gents!

I've seen them pretty regularly at the Mopar Nationals anywhere from $200.00 to $800.00. The $800.00 ones are completely restored and look brand new but $800.00 is allot of money. I picked one up for $240.00 that needed a little work just to eventually decide not to use it and sold it. All you have to do is start looking and something will pop up.

 

[Ron 73]

I took the time today Roger to go thru your entire thread here, Thats cool having that bird this long and now turning it back to its former beauty! I love reading all the resto threads but the Road Runners do have my attention more the any just out of my love for them, Ive had all three of the first ones and think back how stupid it was not keeping one of them, im sure im not the only one thats made the same remark lol, Its funny i payed 800 dollars for a 69 RR with about 20,000 miles on it from my cousin, it was a 4-speed bench seat post car but man was it fast, ugly green but fast, you need about the same amount to buy the console for one, man, time changes things, i bet your more then happy you've held on to this one!

- - - Updated - - -

Is Rust bullet enough for the bare metal you think? Like the inside of roof, underneath the car on floors and frame rails ect.. Ive read so many, and so much im getting myself confused a bit wondering whats the best and yet the cheapest without hurting the car.

 

[roadrunnerman]

Thanks Ron, back in '86 when I first saw the car sitting in a small cornfield 5 blocks from where I lived. I drove by it on my way to and from work about every day for awhile. I finally stop at the house and ask the guy living there, which was the father of the owner. The guy told me that his son basically had the car since almost brand new and raced it at the local dragstrip. He blew the original motor but put another one in from another RR. Then for reasons I don't know, he parked it where it was sitting when I found it. The father told me one guy wanted the motor $75 and one guy wanted the body $75 but he wanted both guys to get everything at the same time. I told the father that I would give him $200 and I would take it all to my house. He talked to his son and got the go ahead for me to buy it. The car sat in my garage, sat in the trucking companies yard where I worked, stayed with me thru 1 divorce, sat in storage I shared with my buddy, Then back in my garage when I got married again, where I could finally start working on it. In the words of the late Paul Harvey, "And now you know the rest of the story".
To answer your other question, I would think rust bullet would be good to use, especially inside the car. I am not an expert on this as I have not used it yet. I would ask Will, 747, Donny, eagleone, and others. I did see something awhile back, a guy I know that has a 69 RR used roofing tar and gasoline mix 50/50 on his frame of his Toyota and brushed it on. He swears it works, but I would be a little hesitant to find out. Sorry I couldn't help you more.

 

[Ron 73]

Thats a cool story how it all came about Roger! Great price to.. yea, i would be afraid of the tar-gas mix, the smell alone inside the car would be horrific lol.. ill be doing some checking around, im way to whipped tonight to get excited about anything.. been a full but good day and things went well at the courthouse today! Thanks...

 

[Propwash]

Cool Story Roger! $200 bucks...wow, who would have thought that now days it would be hard to find one for 10-15 times that much..lol As far as the Rust Bullet goes, it can be applied over rusty, painted or bare metal. Personal preference I don't leave any rust, but if you do use it to seal in rust (which is one of the things it's made for) be sure to wire brush/wheel of any loose/heavy rust and then coat. Use two coats always..Wait till the first coat is tacky and the re-coat. If applying over paint, be sure to rough the paint with some 300-500 grit or a 3M scuff pad. You guys seen over on my bird's resto thread, I apply it over bare metal as well for an extra barrier of protection..especially the areas that are prone to rust. Trick to that is make sure the metal is nice and clean..Use a wax/grease remover before applying. IMO it's a lot better than POR15. Applies better, more resilient, sticks to more surfaces, UV resistant..Just a better product.

 

[roadrunnerman]

thanks for answering Ron's question for me Will. I knew you or others could answer that better than I could.

 

[kev86]

nice work! and good luck!