Rust revival

[poly1963]

the wheel opening looks bad but i think your very talented in the art of metal revival keep up the awsome job

 

[Endangered Species]

Did you make that outer rocker panel? If so would you be so kind as to show how you made it? I have some repair to do to mine and would like to get some idea's how to do it right.

 

[Black63]

Did you make that outer rocker panel? If so would you be so kind as to show how you made it? I have some repair to do to mine and would like to get some idea's how to do it right.

KD...the original rockers are very high quality and your car will have to be very rusty to need full replacement. Even my old girl could have gotten away with just repairing the drivers side!

As I said in my post on the rockers...I didn't take many pictures while they were getting installed.
I had them made at a local sheetmetal shop, but had some issues because I wasn't clear on just how particular I was going to be on them and it bit me on the backside!
I'll still use the same shop as I was my fault.

You can make templates from strips of thick sheetmetal bent to follow the contours of your rockers front and rear (might be slightly different) and the shop will bend new metal for you to match.
Tell them the new rocker has to match the INSIDE of the templates!

Having a smooth radius to the large bend might be an issue though unless the guy has an English wheel or a steady hand on the brake so he can do multiple, slight breaks to get the radius.
Very do-able...just takes some extra labour/time...so make sure you tell the guy your willing to pay extra for a nice job!
It's WORTH the extra coin!!!
BTW....use 18g or thicker metal. It'll go together much easier.

The rocker drains will be gone if you use custom bent outers so you either need to replicate them for a stock look or at the very least drill several holes at an even spacing in next to the pinch weld flange to allow for good drainage. VERY important.

Oh yeah...when you cut off your old rocker you'll see that it continues under the quarterpanel. Make sure that area is good or repaired properly to keep the structure as strong as possible.

Yeah...reads a bit complicated I guess but it isn't too bad.

You'll figure it out once you get a look at it! ;)

All the best!

 

[Endangered Species]

Black 63,

Thank you for the help!.... never thought about going to a sheet metal shop to get the radius. I've been thinking how to put the drains the drains back in. If I can't I'll just drill some holes like you suggested. My 65 Ply has some cancer in the rear where it goes behind the quarter panel on both sides. I probably only need to pact 6-8 inches. I'm using 18ga for all my patch work. Should be heavy enough yet still can work with it.

Thanks again!

Keep the updates coming.

 

[Black63]

Time for an update I guess....

Haven't had the time to really get into the car like I'd like but things are moving along somewhat. I'm still waiting to get a chance to pull some extra mechanical bits and send them to the blaster along with the right apron.
Can't justify the expense of getting just one part cleaned up at a time!

The left wheel arch was a real pain to get done and I suspect the right will be worse...but it did come out pretty good!
I think the shape is a little off but its close enough to satisfy me!!!
I made a cardboard pattern and it fits pretty close.

To make it I reshaped the front fender arch from a 67 Belvedere and lengthened it a bit in the middle to get it close. Had to make a new lip for it as well to get the right look.
Took a lot of welding inside and out to allow for grinding and smoothing.

The outer wheelwell was bad too so I had to remake that in pieces and hammer/dolly it into reasonable shape. Its obviously hidden so it just had to fit nice where the arch attaches...a bit of roughness inside won't even be noticed once everything is undercoated.
It isn't fully welded yet in the pic...just tacked.

Not gonna get much done in the next couple of weeks.
My friend and I are hopping in his black and flamed T bucket and hauling azz from St John's NL to the Atlantic Nats in Moncton NB...and the only trailer involved is getting towed BY the bucket!

Say hello if you have the time and we'll have a chat!!!!

 

[Black63]

...and here it is welded on after the inner wheelwell was derusted and sprayed with zinc primer. It'll all be sprayed inside with paint and undercoat once the body repairs are completed.

 

[poly1963]

lookin great

:icon_thumleft:yet again iam impressed with your awsome metal mastery looks great i worked on my right fender carved off a ton of filler i looked like a snowman after lol i will send pics soon

 

[poly1963]

checkin in

hows the 63 comming along

 

[Black63]

Been at a standstill for a little while. Gave my friend a hand to build a luggage trailer (He did the body, I did the frame/axle) to tow to the Atlantic Nationals show and we only got back a few days ago.
I made a retractable drawbar to keep us under the 20' limit for the ferry!

Having some issues with my wifes car at the moment but I DID get a chance to weld in one small piece on the left apron of the Dodge last night.
Hoping to install the right replacement apron this weekend at least...but my wifes car is still being a PITA. (Wheelbearing issues....)

Heres a couple of pics of the trailer and car...plus one of us on the road.
850 miles and 2 15 hr ferry rides.

 

[roadrunnerman]

nice work on the wheel arch,i know they can be a pain. That's a good looking street rod.

 

[Black63]

Thought I'd bring my thread back up to ask a question!
I'll be adding some updates soon, but really I've only been cleaning suspension parts etc and sourcing for most of the summer. Too busy with real world stuff to get into it deep!

The /6 has been deep sixed.
One of the first things this car will be required to do is duplicate the road trip my friend and I just did in his bucket.
With passengers and luggage aboard I think the little 225 would be overtaxed.

I now have a 400 from a Chrysler to drop in.
Heres the question(s)....

I have a 67 V8 K frame and engine mounts from a 318 Poly. Will the 400 bolt right up?
I've heard yes AND no...so I'm a bit mixed up!
I also have the 67 Trans crossmember that I can use.

I've heard that the later K frame moves the engine back a bit...but is it too far in a 63 B????

I'm thinking that the 67 trans crossmember will work with the engine crossmember as its obviously designed with the mount farther back.

Will 78 Chrysler exhaust manifolds work as is???

Just trying to get all my ducks in a row before the big drop takes place! !!!

Hmmmm....no response! Maybe I better ask in the 63 forum! LoL

 

[blackblazer717]

Manifolds yes, trans xmember yes, kmember yes, motor mounts not, get some freshys from rockauto.com. there cheep and will hold you over for now.

 

[Black63]

Thanks Blackblazer...much appreciated!

Ok....thought I'd give an update on the bit of work I got done over the summer.

I replaced the passenger side fender apron with the one from the front clip I bought. Cleaned up all the suspension parts and the K member.
The engine compartment is stripped of paint and rust and was then primed with black epoxy.

Few words...but it was a lot of work, especially when combined with a busy summer!
Just glad I didn't have to stop completely.

Once the suspension is reassembled and the cowl is finished she's off to my friends Hot Rod Shop (Island Rod & Kustom) where we'll work together to get the major portions of the outer body back in shape. With both of us at it the job will be done very quick compared to me trying to do it alone in my small space!

HOPEFULLY I'll be able to start making regular updates now that the build season is almost here.

Heres some pics....

I used a needle scaler, surface prep pads on a die grinder and various wire brushes to clean up the engine compartment. The rust was cleaned off better than the pics show and then treated with a conversion coating before the epoxy primer.
Best I could do as shipping off for blasting just wasn't in the cards.
It did come out good though so any remaining rust should be well stabilized.

Thats it for now!

 

[Invisabledog]

Looking good.

 

[72Satellite440]

really talented welding there-good job

 

[blackblazer717]

Good update. Looks wonderful

 

[Black63]

Good update. Looks wonderful

Thanks! Wonderful is a bit of a stretch but it is a lot better than I figured it would be!
This car is a strange beast.
The stuff thats rusted is generally SHOT...but other stuff seems to be very solid. Theres no consistancy to the rust....but don't get me wrong.
I'm NOT complaining! Hahaha

I took a deep breath last night and pulled the top off the cowl to see what kind of mess that was.
Pleasantly surprised!
The very edge of the firewall where the front/top section spot welds on is a bit soft and pitted but not holed. A couple of very small holes where the plenum floor rises towards the wire harness plug and also the usual spot above the master cylinder.
Thats it! The main section is rust free!

I think I'll cut out and replace the spot weld area just to be safe but other than that an easy fix. Dodged a bullet I know!

No pics tonight (forgot the camera!) but I'll shoot a couple Tuesday night when i can next get at the old girl. :icon_axe:

 

[blackblazer717]

Your lucky with the cowl. Most of them are ****, even on "clean" shells

 

[Black63]

A Merry Christmas to all and a little Christmas update!

I've been working on the car on and off but will be getting back to it flat out after New Years. HAS to be on the road by May.

The Rt/middle cowl is almost done now, but I discovered some soft areas on the drivers side cowl inner section so that will be next on the list.
Pulled out the steering column, the dash cluster, PB shifter setup and the brake pedal assembly to get lots of room to work.
The drivers side floor section at the toeboard is now finished too.

A friend and I started putting the suspension back together. Got the V8 K frame in place and the LCA's. Also the new uppers are in and the steering box.

Working towards having the full suspension in ASAP to get it to my other friends shop so we can get the outer sheetmetal hammered into shape.

Heres a few pics...

 

[Black63]

And a few more pics....i'm having some issues with the pic size from a new camera so these are on Tinypic...