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School me on Oil fellas

Nick2317

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Ok I need some advice-schooling from all you old gear heads on here ....I used to be of the family of oil is oil ...well now I don't want things to break and want the best oil-filter combo I can get I already have the Napa-Wix gold filter waiting Ive narrowed down my search to 2 oils Id like to hear the forums opinions and pros and cons of both


1. is Brad Penn High Performance 10-40

2 is Rotella 15-40

BOTH are the non synthetic ....so please SCHOOL ME
 
I have been using Castrol since early 70's...never had an issue in any of my cars either with new rebuilt engines or the original engines in my 73 Pontiac or 66 Charger

Bryan
 
I have been using Castrol since early 70's...never had an issue in any of my cars either with new rebuilt engines or the original engines in my 73 Pontiac or 66 Charger

Bryan

I too used to swear by John Force juice but just looking for other opinions etc rite now ...the 2 I listed above are the 2 "others" I have had come up often
 
Nick,

I use Valvoline VV-851, it is a non-syn version of their racing oil. It's not cheap, but its good insurance. IMHO

From what I remember, it has something like 1200+ ppm of zinc. zinc is what keeps flat tappets alive

Amazon.com is the cheapest I've found.

Valvoline VV-851.jpg

hope it helps ya!

Mario
 
I have always used Rotella in my diesels and old cars prior to this one. Mobil one in the bikes. This car came with Royal Purple in it and I intend to keep using it. After setting the rings it has not used a drop and it is the first old Mopar I have ever owned that didn't. Probably just luck of the draw.

That write up someone posted in another thread would make one consider Lucas Oil though.
 
I use Rotella 15-45 in all my cars. I also add a small amount of Lucas Zinc additive. the Part# Number is 10036. Just four or five ounces to boost up the 1020ppm Rotella has to a couple thousand ppm. One bottle lasts for four oil changes. I buy it in Bulk for 9.00 a bottle on line.
 
I use Joe Gibbs 10W30 non synthetic. I was going to use Royal purple but they said it may be too much zinc and actually tear up the cam. Heard about the Valvoline, have not researched it yet, and if you have the cash Amzoil or Z-alt are tops. Filters are easy, general cruiser go with fram or Purolator. A little more power use a Wix, stay away from Teflon impregnated filters. The guy I got my car from used them all the time, 9000 miles later complete rebuild.
 
Now a lot of the reviews I have read for Rotella are from Diesel owners ....which exact Rotella would I get the Heavy Duty 15-40 or what?
 
oh yeah, forgot bout the filter!

K&N. no real reason.

used them on all my cars, and never had a problem. and this filter has a "nut" on the end. pretty convenient lol

P/N HP-2004

K&N HP-2004.jpg
 
oh yeah, forgot bout the filter!

K&N. no real reason.

used them on all my cars, and never had a problem. and this filter has a "nut" on the end. pretty convenient lol

P/N HP-2004

View attachment 180006

I use them too, but large ones HP-3001 & 2 at a time, I believe in filtering my oil... Engine oil temps maintained at 180*, oil type & viscosity, depends on what temp your engine is running at "normal operating conditions/temperature", what climates you drive in, what type of camshaft & whether the rings are seated the engine fully broke in... when you find an oil you finally like stick with it... I figure oil is the blood of my engine why scrimp on a very large investment that needs good oil, I use TR-1R 20-50w Torco Professional Series Racing Oil in my 68 RR with 383/479ci-6bbl, a Hyd. roller camshaft & roller rockers & Royal Purple 10-40 in my 99 Dakota 4x4 5.2 ltr. with a Hyd. Roller & various bolt on performance parts 300hp... I also don't live in an extremely harsh environment, that has really vast temperature changes, like well below freezing, for long periods of time in the winter to over 100*+ summer/with lots of humidity, for normal driving, we average about 40* in the winter here, but will get down in the "teens" occasionally, but I don't ever drive my RR when it's that nasty out "at all" & about 90* average in the summer, that's what I base my oil needs on, is those conditions, that I drive the most from late April to late October, we do get a few weeks of over 100* for a short time in the summer... To me those viscosities work out well for my specific engine combos & maintaining about 180* oil temps...
 

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Castrol GTX. I have an Explorer with 423,000 on it. I use it in everything.
 
I use Brad Penn 10w40 high performance. I found that I can buy it from a nearby machine shop for about $5.70 a quart. Also get the break in oil from him. Can buy as much as I want ,when I want. No waiting or internet ordering.
 
I hope the Castrol GTX is better than it was in the 70's-80's. I used it starting in 73 when I bought my first bike and it was recommended by the local Honda shop and used it for over 10 years based on if it's good enough for my bike, it's good enough for my cars....until I finally saw what it was doing to my engines. It had plenty of detergents and not enough lubricity it seemed. Very clean engines at tear down but all had silvery deposits left over in the lifter valley pockets. Maybe it had too much zinc? I don't know but I do know 3 engines later, I figured out my problem. Used Exxon XD-3 (Exxon Diesel 30w) then went to Rotella in 2001 after buying a diesel. Used Mobil 1 in our Durango for awhile but even it uses Rotella now. I haven't torn down any engines on it yet but I don't get that very faint silvery sheen in the oil like I was getting with the Castrol. Even the little Honda 350 twin bike engine showed signs of the silvery build up in the centrifugal oil filter and dumb *** me thought it was normal for an all aluminum engine.
 
Ok final stupid question........on my 70 coronet it has the factory oil pan I think with a windage tray ...I swear it takes 6 qts of oil can anyone confirm this for me?
 
Ok final stupid question........on my 70 coronet it has the factory oil pan I think with a windage tray ...I swear it taked 6 qts of oil can anyone confirm this for me?
With filter and the big factory pan....sure.
 
I use Royal Purple 10w40 with a zinc additive and have no problems. The zinc is what you really have to keep an eye on with a flat tappet cam. The Rotella diesel oil doesn't have enough zinc in it anymore so you'll need an additive for it too.
 
Hmm. I buy whatever 'synthetic' that is on sale...Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Syntec, Mobil 1, etc. and had been changing oil on 5K intervals (last year changed to 'filters only' every 5K and changing oil every 10K). Wife's V-6 `99 4Runner has 200K and doesn't use a drop. My `95 5.2L with 165K has used 1 qt every 1,500 miles since new. The Poly 318 in the `66 KS Belle has not used a drop, and is up over 2,500 miles since her resurrection. I would do something different, but I don't have anything consistent to base it on. :icon_scratch:
 
If you can run the shell rotella 15w-40 with manageable oil pressure, then use it. It is a good formulation and I use it in a lot of different applications, including a kawasaki zx10 sportbike (doesn't have friction modifiers so its suitable for use with a wet clutch). I don't use it in the roadrunner because 15W-40 is too high viscosity to run in my motor, the oil pressure runs a tad high. I use 5w30 quaker state defy synthetic in the 383 which has over 1200 ppm ZDDP for flat tappets, and I can get it by the gallon at walmart.

The valvoline VR1 scores very high in engine wear tests (the best of any current consumer motor oils), both the conventional and synthetic, but I can't find it easily so I dont use it. If someone knows a source for this oil for a good price let me know!
 
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