• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

School me on Oil fellas

Actually I stopped at advance auto parts today and the Valvoline Vr1 stuff was on sale somehow .....got 6 qts for 25.00 so I had to buy it ....
 
You need about 1200ppm zinc to work with a flat tappet can. The way I understand you can't just add it to the oil needs to be done in process also since it has been reduced in everyday oils the detergent package changed and the detergents used now will attack and reduce the levels of zinc if you mix oils. Diesel oil is not great anymore either with all the deisel exhaust filter trucks out there now. I have had good luck with brad penn, valvoline vr1 and Mobil 1 racing 20-50
 
You don't need the WIX Gold the Wix reg. is just fine.
It take more pressure to push through the extra filtering and the filters we have now are fine.
 
So this summers try will be a napa-wix gold filter and Valvoline vr1 oil
 
Hmm. I buy whatever 'synthetic' that is on sale...Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Syntec, Mobil 1, etc. and had been changing oil on 5K intervals (last year changed to 'filters only' every 5K and changing oil every 10K). Wife's V-6 `99 4Runner has 200K and doesn't use a drop. My `95 5.2L with 165K has used 1 qt every 1,500 miles since new. The Poly 318 in the `66 KS Belle has not used a drop, and is up over 2,500 miles since her resurrection. I would do something different, but I don't have anything consistent to base it on. :icon_scratch:
You might need to take a good look at the intake plenum plate gasket on that 5.2. They are notorious for leaking oil into the engine. Also, I tried to go for a longer oil change interval with Mobil 1 on our 2000 5.2 Durango but we short trip it too much and the oil was pretty dirty by 5k miles so I went back to regular oil.
 
Check out the stuff from Cenpeco. Go to Cenpeco. Com they have all types of oils and additives. They are based out of Iowa and have been in business for about 90 years. I run it in my diesel and am going to get some for my roadrunner. It is very high in zinc and phosphorous. It has to be ordered direct and by the case. 6 gallons per case and $18 per gallon for diesel oil. Very good stuff. 10k change intervals.
 
You might need to take a good look at the intake plenum plate gasket on that 5.2. They are notorious for leaking oil into the engine. Also, I tried to go for a longer oil change interval with Mobil 1 on our 2000 5.2 Durango but we short trip it too much and the oil was pretty dirty by 5k miles so I went back to regular oil.


Yes, it looked like it had a bad spot along one side so I replaced it. Unfortunately it didn't change consumption at all. I had taken it back to the dealer while it was still under warranty only to find out that amount of oil consumption is 'acceptable' by Chrysler standards.

As for trip duration, we are far enough from most things that our trips are usually 20 to 30 minutes each way...from most anything. I haven't noticed any difference in oil color or smell by upping the intervals.
 
I disagree that rebel rotella t triple protection does not have enough zinc. Everything I've read is that the ZDDP is spec'd at 1200 but has tested above 1300 in some analyses. Not saying it beats brad penn, royal purple or racing oil, but it IS adequate for flat tappet camshafts.
 
Actually I stopped at advance auto parts today and the Valvoline Vr1 stuff was on sale somehow .....got 6 qts for 25.00 so I had to buy it ....

It’s on sale because Advance is discontinuing it. I got a lifetime supply from them.
I’ve read that while diesel oils have zinc, they have too much detergent for a gas engine.
They are designed to keep the heavy particulates generated by a diesel in suspension.
Racing oils, on the other hand like ZR1 don’t have enough detergent. They are not designed for extend use.
I read that. Take it for what it’s worth.
But I am running ZR1 in a car that I have to add oil to anyway, so that’s one reason I stocked up.
Plus I don’t mind changing oil in my driver. It’s a cop 318 with 12 million miles on it.
Doesn’t smoke but probably leaks more.
I’ve run Mobil 1 in it for years. I finally started adding STP with it for zinc and because the engine has so many miles I wanted the viscosity indices increase.
I don’t think you will have any trouble with that combination.
Oil is a hot topic and sometimes generates lots of heat.
 
Someone correct me if I'm wrong. But from what I have read, The Rotella (diesel oils) have a high concentration of detergents. The detergents break down any kind of zinc or zinc additive that may be in the oil. So, while great for diesels, they may not be good for a flat tappet cam. Just from what I remember reading.
 
Someone correct me if I'm wrong. But from what I have read, The Rotella (diesel oils) have a high concentration of detergents. The detergents break down any kind of zinc or zinc additive that may be in the oil. So, while great for diesels, they may not be good for a flat tappet cam. Just from what I remember reading.

Interesting. If you think about it, that means one additive is destroying another.
 
Had bought a d150 for a dollar and the rotella t brought it back from the dead... engine seized 6 times... was like starting a model A once it broke free ran great.... problem is that was 20 years ago... oil hasn't changed the labels do... the old rotella is the new valveoline VR 1 off road... the oil companies like to have everyone chasing the carrot

- - - Updated - - -

There used to be one antifreeze an hour ago now there's a hundred just to confuse and drive prices up none are more or less better than the other. Anyone know the boiling point of mineral oil?
 
Boiling point is 590F. But the flash point is 335F so don't try to boil it. No bueno.
 
Had bought a d150 for a dollar and the rotella t brought it back from the dead... engine seized 6 times... was like starting a model A once it broke free ran great.... problem is that was 20 years ago... oil hasn't changed the labels do... the old rotella is the new valveoline VR 1 off road... the oil companies like to have everyone chasing t

There used to be one antifreeze an hour ago now there's a hundred just to confuse and drive prices up none are more or less better than the other. Anyone know the boiling point of

mineral oil?[/QUOTE


Could it be the detergent in the rotella freed it up? Like trans fluid or marvel mystery oil?
 
Someone correct me if I'm wrong. But from what I have read, The Rotella (diesel oils) have a high concentration of detergents. The detergents break down any kind of zinc or zinc additive that may be in the oil. So, while great for diesels, they may not be good for a flat tappet cam. Just from what I remember reading.

If you read if from me above, don't believe it. LOL

But really, it does make sense that diesel oil would be designed differently and not the best choice for this application.
Otherwise, why have it?
After 30 years of hearing things and reading, I firmly believe that the best choice is some type of synthetic. That is based on molecule size, sheer strength , viscosity stability, bla bla.
(You may not even NEED zinc then)
And there may not be a lot of difference between them other than marketing on how "....clean we can keep your engine".
http://www.pennzoil.com/motor-oil/pennzoil-ultra-synthetic-oil/
Years ago a lubrication analysis company person told me that A Mobil One representative is quoted as saying "Mobil was the first. If synthetic oil never got dirty, you would never have to change it. But we make money by selling oil."
More hearsay.
 
If you read if from me above, don't believe it. LOL

But really, it does make sense that diesel oil would be designed differently and not the best choice for this application.
Otherwise, why have it?

My understanding is that BITD, oil was oil. Then they started taking the zinc and some other additives out because they ruin catalytic converters, thus the need for separate oils for diesel and gasoline engines (diesels don't run cats). So it was catalytic converters that sort of forced manufacturers to move toward roller valve gear in order to eliminate the high stress / high friction points of flat tapped cams.
 
Diesels don't run cats? BMW diesels do. Ford diesels do. Dodge Cummins diesels do. Even the trackmobiles that we used at work to move freight cars around had cats.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top