Solid Roller Noise - quite when cold louder when warm.

[bigmanjbmopar]

So I have adjusted the solid rollers twice now starting with 6/8 on the feeler gauge and a bit tighter 2nd time. It's quite when warm so much so I could hear a vibration in my hood lol, but then reached 180° and then you could hear the chatter both sides too. I know the heads are heating up and stretching, do I need to go more tight? Sounds like an industrial sewing machine.

I'm thinking I'm almost there but afraid to go too tight and hang the valves open again? frustrating what is the right way to do this? I have tried cold not hot.

 

[moparmarks]

So you did adjust them when the motor was at 180?

 

[Satellite65]

Are they aluminum heads?

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Sorry had to edit the post, I did not try them hot. Yes aluminum heads. So the cam is a comp cam hydraulic roller xtreame energy. I just want to make sure I am on the right track there is some history with this set up but I wont go into it it is spread across other post's.

And yes I talked to comp cams the solid roller lifters on a hydraulic cam is fine and technically should give you more rpm overall. But the noise is driving me nutty it was better when the vales were hanging open lol J/K

Thinking I need to do 1 side at a time hot?

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Gotta do them hot for correct lash.After the hot lash you can recheck cold to see what to set them at when it's cold.:toothy2:

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Read somewhere to do one side at a time due to adjustment time the other side may have cooled off too much?

Run it back up to temp after one side?

What should it sound like after it's right? How much sewing machine should I hear if any?

Is going from barley any noise from the valve train to sewing machine after temp OK? Just want to make sure it not an oiling issue or anything else. Oil is straight 30w

 

[Satellite65]

Probably want to do them hot to get a good, accurate lash setting. Aluminum GROWS when it gets hot and the rocker shaft will move 'away' from the cam. That's why the noise gets louder as the engine gets up to temp.

Was Comp able to provide a hot lash setting spec for your hydraulic cam/solid lifter combo? It's possible that it will always be a noisy cam, the ramp profiles have a lot to do with that. I've heard people complain that some of Comps hydraulic flat tappet cams are on the noisy side. Solid lifters are a bit on the noisy side to begin with. Personally, I like them. That's why I went with a solid flat tappet but that's just me. Some people find the sound quite annoying.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Yes comp did give some #'s to play with, think I'm close. Guess just paranoid about damage...will so it again hot thanks guys.

 

[moparmarks]

As said, always final set the valve lash at operating temp. That should settle it down.

 

[IQ52]

You reported that Comp cams told you to set the lash at .008"/.010" hot or .002"/.004" cold with the solid roller lifters on the hydraulic roller cam, which is the very same thing I told you. Once you do that, any noise you hear with the engine hot, will be normal lifter noise with the cam/lifter combination you are running. It will never be as quiet as a straight hydraulic system while using the solid lifters.

 

[Hemi Time]

I have a solid roller they can get you stressed with the noise thinking they are going to fail.....(I have a friend who is a bit of a engine rebuilder genius and he finds sometimes the only way to fix some roller cams is he uses a compression gauge winds the valve adjustment down till it releases compression then sets from their to get it accurate and quiet he has picked up a lot of horse power this way.)

 

[67 B-body]

Solid lifters = noisy valve train.... Mine sounds like a sewing machine too.... No worries here!

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Once you get them set properly,you will still need to check them an a regular basis.Hopefully they will not need any adjustments when being checked.But make note if one or two need to be adjusted snd on the NEXT adjustment the same 1 or 2 need adjustment again it could be an indication that a roller lifter is going bad.Depending on the cam & springs used along with driving habits will determine how long the lifters will last before a rebuild or replacement would be needed.Roller lifters will NOT last forever:happy7:

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Once you get them set properly,you will still need to check them an a regular basis.Hopefully they will not need any adjustments when being checked.But make note if one or two need to be adjusted snd on the NEXT adjustment the same 1 or 2 need adjustment again it could be an indication that a roller lifter is going bad.Depending on the cam & springs used along with driving habits will determine how long the lifters will last before a rebuild or replacement would be needed.Roller lifters will NOT last forever:happy7:

Wow I wouldn't have thought that a roller would wear itself out like that! That is crazy what happen to the cam lobe? did the lifter make contact with it after that? What brand are those? was it ext or int? how did you find it...like a kid I know sorry. lol

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

The cam lobe was wiped.Heard some tappin,checked valve lash and found very loose rocker.It was all downhill from there.Metal was everywhere including the all the bearings and piston skirts.During this misadventure is when I thought to myself,how did contaminated oil get past my oil filters??I was using fram HP oil filters.After doing my homework,I found that when a milodon oil pump that flows 19 GPM hits an oil filter that only flows 13 GPM {approx GPM #'s},,,,,,the bypass in the filter opens and you ain't filtering **** out,just it goes through the engine contaminating everything.Now I have a double filter system and use Moroso oil filters with NO BYPASS:eusa_think:

 

[Stumper]

Yowza !!! Good thing you found that when you did..

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

The cam lobe was wiped.Heard some tappin,checked valve lash and found very loose rocker.It was all downhill from there.Metal was everywhere including the all the bearings and piston skirts.During this misadventure is when I thought to myself,how did contaminated oil get past my oil filters??I was using fram HP oil filters.After doing my homework,I found that when a milodon oil pump that flows 19 GPM hits an oil filter that only flows 13 GPM {approx GPM #'s},,,,,,the bypass in the filter opens and you ain't filtering **** out,just it goes through the engine contaminating everything.Now I have a double filter system and use Moroso oil filters with NO BYPASS:eusa_think:

Have to ask - was this while racing or street driving?

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Spirited street driving:headbang::grin:

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Long Island Drag Racing? lol nice hope you won at least!

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Long Island Drag Racing? lol nice hope you won at least!

One of the biggest proplems was keeping .tractionWhen your pullim outta the hang out parkin lot and you "blowthe tires off" looks vool.but inside wreaks havic on the valvetrain.Same when your "ON IT" and you blow off the tires,you go onto valve float which is BAD!!!