@m79ded
A SFT cam has a quicker initial lifter rise over the roller. That is important, but... After that, the solid roller has a quicker rise, fatter duration @.050. This should allow the roller to have a greater velocity, duration and aggressive profile. Should is the key word. IF it is a race cam. Street rollers, not so aggressive. But could/should be aggressive if ground in that fashion, be as a good or better nest to the solid flat tappet.
The profiles can vary widely on ether solid or solid roller. So you have to check there profiles as closely as possible. Look at durations figures from where there advertised duration figures are given, .200 & @ .050 and anywhere in between if you can to help draw a map of the lobe curve.
Generally speaking, a more radical aggressive curve should give the best power. I say should because if the equipment backing it up isn’t a likewise aggressive set up, the cam never shows its true potential and you might think it sucks.
It would be similar to putting stock big block heads from a 361 (small 2.08 valves) on a 542 stroker and expect it to run around the 8 second zone.
For the cost, & the performance return, I wouldn’t switch. I’m sure you’ll gain power but at the cost......
And the huge hassle & work associated that goes with it. Forget it! You’ll be pissed.
Now if you start from scratch and you want to build a fire breather, then yes that solid roller is what your looking at.
The Hughes cams are pretty good. You could also check out other cam grinders for more aggressive cams. Bullet/Ultra Dyne, Howard’s etc....
I, myself have a Lunati solid roller for my small block. It is a street grind. You can consider this solid roller a 7 out of 10 on the aggressive scale because it is designed for the street.
On my small block stroker race engine build, I have a Ultra Dyne solid flat tappet designed ONLY for the .904 lifter. I’d call this a 9 out of 10 only because a custom cut solid or custom cut solid roller would out do it without stepping up in duration.
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