Lets talk about roller cams for stroked big blocks!

[biomedtechguy]

Dwayne's # is 802-951-1955. The next time I need any motor related parts, I am buying from him, even if he is not the cheapest in town. He has went out of his way to pm and talk on the phone with me about a motor issue I was having. Great guy and a wealth of knowledge imo.

Yeah, I talked to Dwayne for a couple of minutes today about the timing chain cover and how is cam endplay controlled w/out a high end TC cover.
Great guy. I sure wish it wasn't so damn difficult to get an engine built, but parts are a problem. I finally spent thousands on a BMP block about 2 years ago, and I have been spending some money since, and I have the rest or close to it to pay for everything, but it doesn't matter because no one can get parts!

 

[RemCharger]

WTF are people doing if they don't use his??
Thanks

See post 57

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

AR cover is nice. It’s more of a luxury for the builder than anyone. Has an advantage if you use a hex adjust tinting set and want to move around cam timing. Not something 99.9% of people are going to do. The rest is pretty self explanatory. Cool to have, absolutely! Need to have, probably not. Although I’m glad to use them if someone else is footing the bill!!

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

If you don't have welding skill there are other covers https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-65651?rrec=true

 

[biomedtechguy]

If you don't have welding skill there are other covers https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-65651?rrec=true

Says "billet steel"...
My builder did get back to me and said if I wanted billet he'd get the best price for me (which he has, on a variety of things) BUT he also mentioned belt drive and hex adjust (cam sprocket) I guess because I had linked to Andy's nice product.
Here's what I want to do once my 572 is done: Tune the 6bbl for best all around performance, using my dual band O2 sensor system and best MPH at the track. The Promax parts should make that easier. I MUST read my Tuning Holley Carburetors book I bought, so I can better understand air bleeds, and all the other "stuff" inside the carbs so I have a clue, although I believe Ben at Promax will help me as best he can over the phone.
Check the lash on my solid roller rockers at whatever interval is recommended, hoping to find them in good shape, and not have to check again anytime soon.
Change the oil and filter.
Piss off or humble a lot of other car owners.

 

[Kern Dog]

If you don't have welding skill there are other covers https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-65651?rrec=true

That one looks like a stock replacement with no provisions for a cam button or whatever you need to prevent fore/aft movement.

 

[biomedtechguy]

If you don't have welding skill there are other covers https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-65651?rrec=true

That one looks like a stock replacement with no provisions for a cam button or whatever you need to prevent fore/aft movement.

I like what I'm seeing @HEMI-ITIS but I'll ask here on the forum, how does this accommodate the mystical cam button?

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Any cover will fit the cam button.A stock cover will flex where as some of the aftermarket covers like the Milodon are reinforced to avoid the flex.

 

[beanhead]

Well.....
I am reviving an old thread for a GOOD reason. The 528 cam lost a few lobes and will have to be replaced.
The lash grew recently. It was running a bit rough and knocking on acceleration. It hasn't detonated hardly at all since lowering the compression a few years back. There was some increased clatter so today I lashed the valves. #3 and #4 intake rockers were loose enough to worry me but I relashed them along with all the others. I started it up and while it was quieter than before, it was still noisier than usual.
I went for a drive and power was down. It didn't run terrible but it wasn't tip-top.
I pulled the intake and valley pan to see at least 3 lobes going bad.
This thread was originally started to see about roller cam options for Big Blocks.
I am still considering this.
If the rod and main bearings look clean, what are the risks of just douching out the lifter valley, replacing the oil pump and putting in another cam?
I have a Lunati solid that was a great performer but I'm still curious about the reliability of a roller cam.

Sorry to hear about the .528, but hey sounds like a good excuse for a rehab! Aside from the things already discussed, try to get the best lifters you can get. Find one that won't expose the oil band at max lift. Roller cams are great for more "under the curve" power...someone once said (about the lobes compared to a FT cam) it's like a thumb vs. an egg!
My engine will come out this summer and maayyy get a roller. I don't know though, my Porter-supplied SFT works really good but I'm the type that can't help messing with the engine every few years. It sure is hard to change something that works especially with the supply issues going around.
I hope you can find what you need in a timely manner...keep us updated!

 

[biomedtechguy]

Any cover will fit the cam button.A stock cover will flex where as some of the aftermarket covers like the Milodon are reinforced to avoid the flex.

Thanks my friend!
BTW, I'm watching a YouTube video of a 4.50 x 4.50 572 Hemi build using a Callies iron block and Molnar crank.
And...a big assed supercharger on top!

 

[Kern Dog]

Sorry to hear about the .528, but hey sounds like a good excuse for a rehab! Aside from the things already discussed, try to get the best lifters you can get. Find one that won't expose the oil band at max lift. Roller cams are great for more "under the curve" power...someone once said (about the lobes compared to a FT cam) it's like a thumb vs. an egg!
My engine will come out this summer and maayyy get a roller. I don't know though, my Porter-supplied SFT works really good but I'm the type that can't help messing with the engine every few years. It sure is hard to change something that works especially with the supply issues going around.
I hope you can find what you need in a timely manner...keep us updated!

I tried to PM you but I got an error message telling me that your inbox is full.

 

[cdr]

I have the HIGH dollar Morel Hrdro Roller lifters in my junk, lets just say IF I ever use a hydro roller again in a Mopar I would get the Johnson ones, NOT to be confused with Hylift Johnson lifters, I would also get the lifter bores bushed but thats just me, so far all is good enough for what my engine is, but it needs a freshin up at this point. NO more flat tappet cams for me !!!!!!

 

[beanhead]

I tried to PM you but I got an error message telling me that your inbox is full.

 

[Geoff 2]

The 440 I built last year had a roller cam & t/c set up with a thrust button was used. I carefully machined the button for 0.005" endplay, using the factory t/c cover. With the water pump in place, there is a small gap between the back of it & the t/c cover. I glued a spacer in there that was a neat fit so that the t/c cover did not move.

 

[biomedtechguy]

With the water pump in place, there is a small gap between the back of it & the t/c cover. I glued a spacer in there that was a neat fit so that the t/c cover did not move.

That was a fairly common method I was told a couple of days ago.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

That one looks like a stock replacement with no provisions for a cam button or whatever you need to prevent fore/aft movement.

It is reinforced.

 

[Hemirunner]

Thanks my friend!
BTW, I'm watching a YouTube video of a 4.50 x 4.50 572 Hemi build using a Callies iron block and Molnar crank.
And...a big assed supercharger on top!

I’m not sure why they used those cheap rods on a high horsepower, high dollar build.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I’m not sure why they used those cheap rods on a high horsepower, high dollar build.

If they did the build when they published the video, that was 2 months ago, so my best guess is unless they had the parts stockpiled, they used the best that were actually available.
Ask me how I know about parts for builds being hard to come by..

I'm going to wait on the Molnar crank and rods, at least that's the horse I'm betting on now.

 

[Hemirunner]

If they did the build when they published the video, that was 2 months ago, so my best guess is unless they had the parts stockpiled, they used the best that were actually available.
Ask me how I know about parts for builds being hard to come by..

I'm going to wait on the Molnar crank and rods, at least that's the horse I'm betting on now.

Could be the explanation for sure. Lots of cool factor with that 10-71 and EFI.

 

[biomedtechguy]

If you don't have welding skill there are other covers https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-65651?rrec=true

That one looks like a stock replacement with no provisions for a cam button or whatever you need to prevent fore/aft movement.

It is reinforced.

So...I took a short trip down the timing cover rabbit hole. I found a Proform TC that had that "odd" triangle shape in the cover, just like the Milodon, and the Proform is around $43 while the Milodon, that says in the Summit description is CNC'd steel, is $58. The Proform is stamped steel.
I'm going to ask if the Milodon is, in fact, CNC'd like the Summit description says, but if it is, then that is one heck of a good deal! The problem is that I don't believe the Summit description, because Milodon says this: "These quality stampings are fitted, finished and plated here in LA." and the price seems too cheap.
My builder sent me a picture and description of the one he uses and has had no problems with, which is about $80 less than Andy's. I asked if there's any advantage for my application in using Andy's vs the one he uses, but I'm not going to change cam timing keyway adjustment so I am just going to use this one:
CVR High Performance Racing Products. Bright anodized T6-6061 billet aluminum. Eliminate flexing problems holding cam in place and keeping timing control. Covers allow camshaft to be replaced without disturbing the oil pan seal
Note: TC2440** includes timing pointer

I have to decide which of the 2 to use. The block is going to remain natural aluminum, but my CVF Wraptor system is "Black Diamond" which is black with aluminum highlights.

Feedback welcome, especially if anyone has used this one or may see an advantage to Andy's that we missed.