LemonWedge
Well-Known Member
new pivot plates that have the roll pin welded in flush, instead of snap-ringed in place. They don’t rotate like the originals do, but they solve the problem, and I’m sure they’ll work just fine.
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new pivot plates that have the roll pin welded in flush, instead of snap-ringed in place. They don’t rotate like the originals do, but they solve the problem, and I’m sure they’ll work just fine.
LemonWedge
Well-Known Member
Ended up going a different direction with the shock mount. I just wasn’t happy with what I fabbed up, and rather than weld something into my car I didn’t like, I rolled under and looked for plan B. Then it hit me: if I just clearance the stock mount a little I should be able to move the shock to the back of the rear plate. All it took was a few minutes with the cutting wheel, and some grade 8 hardware to come up with the pictured mount. At some point I may remove the stock bracket all together and do something that looks like the other guys, but this moves me past this issue and I know my shock is the right length for this.
LemonWedge
Well-Known Member
Better look at what I’ve got going:
LemonWedge
Well-Known Member
Issue solved:
Always takes longer to think up a good solution that the actual job I like it.
Doug
LemonWedge
Well-Known Member
My car is not 100% square on the frame. It was this way prior to this project as it had more tire clearance at the fender on the passenger side than it did on the driver side by about 5/16 of an inch. Ironically I’ve talked to a couple of other guys with 67’s and they said the same thing. We figured the cars came down the assembly line on a jig that wasn’t 100% perfect, and they just all ended up a little off like this. I’m confident that I’ve got everything square to the frame right now, and once again I’m seeing about 1/4” more clearance on the passenger side.
I’m now setting pinion angle and welding the perches onto the axle.
Question: do I square the axle to the frame and live with a little more tire clearance on one side? Or do I offset the axle by 1/8” and square the tires to the body?
Edit: too late. Decided to square the axle to the frame and keep it square to the front suspension. Race car, not a show queen. If it ever really bothers me, I’ll throw a 1/4” spacer on the pass. side.
tacked with -4* pinion angle. Now tear it all back out so I can weld I up on the bench.
I’m now setting pinion angle and welding the perches onto the axle.
Question: do I square the axle to the frame and live with a little more tire clearance on one side? Or do I offset the axle by 1/8” and square the tires to the body?
Edit: too late. Decided to square the axle to the frame and keep it square to the front suspension. Race car, not a show queen. If it ever really bothers me, I’ll throw a 1/4” spacer on the pass. side.
tacked with -4* pinion angle. Now tear it all back out so I can weld I up on the bench.
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Assuming you are talking left to right clearance. My Challenger and even my racecar is offset. As long as the axle is 90 degrees to the centerline is what you want. 3/8" only requires 3/16" movement.
Doug
Doug
LemonWedge
Well-Known Member
yes, I’m only talking L-R at this point. The OCD in me made me keep my work 100% square and continue to live with the slight L/R offset from the factory. With the factory setup, 28x9’s would rub slightly on the drivers side, but had good clearance on the pass side. I’ve now got about 7/8” clearance on the driver side, and a little over 1” on the pass.
LemonWedge
Well-Known Member
Milestone day today. I pulled the car out of the garage and turned it around on its own power!!!
Since my last post I’ve gotten the brake system back together and bled. Got the cal tracks back together with the new pivot assemblies and set initial preload. Got the fuel system buttoned up. Got the new driveline and 1350 yoke in. Got the wheels and tires on for hopefully the last time; unfortunately discovered that with this size wheel / tire package in a 67 B-body, I actually have to drop the leaf springs out of the spring buckets to get them around the drums and inside the fender. Oh well, the final package is worth it. I also got the trunk completely finished. This project has been a ton of work at a pretty fast pace, but the back half of the car is DONE.
next step is to get the exhaust system pieced together and installed. I think that should go pretty quick; I bought a tubing expander, so I should be able to slip-joint each piece.
I ran into one issue today when I went to crack open the LR bleeder stud & bleed the brakes, it broke off leaving half of the stud in the wheel cylinder. Luckily I had room to work with everything still on the car and was able to drill and get a small extraction tool to get it out, but it cost me some time.
Anyway... I feel like I’m on the home stretch, and not a moment too soon.
Since my last post I’ve gotten the brake system back together and bled. Got the cal tracks back together with the new pivot assemblies and set initial preload. Got the fuel system buttoned up. Got the new driveline and 1350 yoke in. Got the wheels and tires on for hopefully the last time; unfortunately discovered that with this size wheel / tire package in a 67 B-body, I actually have to drop the leaf springs out of the spring buckets to get them around the drums and inside the fender. Oh well, the final package is worth it. I also got the trunk completely finished. This project has been a ton of work at a pretty fast pace, but the back half of the car is DONE.
next step is to get the exhaust system pieced together and installed. I think that should go pretty quick; I bought a tubing expander, so I should be able to slip-joint each piece.
I ran into one issue today when I went to crack open the LR bleeder stud & bleed the brakes, it broke off leaving half of the stud in the wheel cylinder. Luckily I had room to work with everything still on the car and was able to drill and get a small extraction tool to get it out, but it cost me some time.
Anyway... I feel like I’m on the home stretch, and not a moment too soon.
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Mercy, that is quite the list of accomplishments in short order!
See, that's the difference in someone with skills like you and a garden variety shadetree like me...
My big accomplishment this week was getting the Hurst shifter reinstalled properly and adjusted and...
that's it. That's all I got done.
I learn tons watching you guys!
Looks great. I've had luck letting the air out of the tires and tipping the bottom of the tire inward.
Doug
Doug
LemonWedge
Well-Known Member
That’s what I did when it was on bias plies. The radials don’t crush even with no air though, Doug. With the old dimensions and 28x9’s, unhooking the shocks was enough to let the axle hang just low enough to get them in & out. But the extra height of the new tires is just too much for that. It’s not even close until the suspension comes down.
LW, so you need to unbolt both the rear shock and rear shackle before the rear comes down far enough? When I was on leafs on my car it was just the shackle needed to get pulled, but letting air out worked for me too on the 64.
LemonWedge
Well-Known Member
That is correct. With the exception that with my shackles, it is much easier to remove the bolt from the front spring eyes. These wheel openings are low!
LemonWedge
Well-Known Member
I got the exhaust done today. Boy these FlowFX straight through “mufflers” don’t knock much sound down, but I think I like the tone. I’ll post a picture of what I’ve done when I get a chance.
If you have extra stud length sticking out of the lug nuts you might be able to trim them back to gain some clearance for tire removal.
—-
I’ve never seen it done that way before, I wouldn’t have thought of it even, lol. So the cal trac brackets obviously aren’t a problem and the driveshaft doesn’t come back too far. Cool. Sure did a good job LW!
Also if you put sliders on next year you might be able to make a pair that have enough travel to get the tires lower.
LemonWedge
Well-Known Member
Took the car for a shake-down ride tonight. Did not romp on it at all, but all seems to be good. Rolls straight, stops straight, no vibrations. Definitely pushes more around corners. To be expected I suppose with more tire on the spool, less tire steering the car, and bias plies now up front to boot.
Did I already say that the exhaust system does NOT knock much sound down at all. Sorta figured that would be the case, but it is louder than I expected. Oh well.... race car.
Now I get to deal with the overspray issues. Now that I’ve washed it, I can see that it’s everywhere. I think this going to haunt me for a while. Live & learn I guess.
Stance is SICK!!!!
Thanks for all the support and encouragement to all!!! I may not be completely done here, but this thread is wrapping up and I want to say I REALLY appreciate you guys. You all have been real helpful.
Did I already say that the exhaust system does NOT knock much sound down at all. Sorta figured that would be the case, but it is louder than I expected. Oh well.... race car.
Now I get to deal with the overspray issues. Now that I’ve washed it, I can see that it’s everywhere. I think this going to haunt me for a while. Live & learn I guess.
Stance is SICK!!!!
Thanks for all the support and encouragement to all!!! I may not be completely done here, but this thread is wrapping up and I want to say I REALLY appreciate you guys. You all have been real helpful.
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