CJD AUTO
Well-Known Member
Yes, north of 100K! Still take this over a Hellcat though...!
SRT8 Roadrunner conversion, NOT a body over!!
- Thread starter CJD AUTO
- Start date
Yes, north of 100K! Still take this over a Hellcat though...!
CJD AUTO
Well-Known Member
Few more. Supposed to be done next week.
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Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Oh for sure. I also have one of those and they sure are fun. I have north of 100K in my stock bodied 70RR tho, so I can relate in all respects. Great work!
CJD AUTO
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70chall440
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Outstanding work.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Fit, finish and attention to detail are amazing on this thing. Lots of real craftsmen on this board.
CJD AUTO
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4mulas
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Outstanding!
CJD AUTO
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SureGrip
Well-Known Member
Someone really earned their money on getting that interior blended into the original body!
79cordoba
Well-Known Member
Just went threw all 15 pages.. Holy &#%$ that's some amazing craftsmanship. So much respect CJD auto! I wish I could come hangout with you.
Fabman
Well-Known Member
Excellent build ! Maybe I missed it.....how did you handle the fresh air intake box and filter? Doesn't look like it would fit under the 70 RR Cowl area …..
CJD AUTO
Well-Known Member
No box or filter. The owner wanted the cowl vents removed, so no place to actually pull fresh air from anyway. The opening is present on the firewall (screened), but without the box to direct it to the cowl, it simply pulls air from the engine compartment. Not a big deal, in Florida we keep A/C on recirculate all the time.
This is a modern engine, so no leaks and no fumes. The hood scoop is open, and would probably feed the fresh air intake pretty well if not on recirculate.
Fabman
Well-Known Member
Understood ….
What size wheels and tires are on the car? Are they 20 x 10s in back and 18 x 8 up front?
What size wheels and tires are on the car? Are they 20 x 10s in back and 18 x 8 up front?
Last edited:
CJD AUTO
Well-Known Member
Not a fan of 20's on muscle cars.
18"s all around. 9.5" up front and 10" in the rear.
18"s all around. 9.5" up front and 10" in the rear.
Fabman
Well-Known Member
Agreed ! Body lines do not lend well to the 20 in wheels.
Fabman
Well-Known Member
This is a Tremendous Build !
Question……
I like the installation of the Challenger fuel fill door in the top of the RR fender. A Side wall fill would have prevented fuel flow into the fuel line to fill the gas tank. How did you accommodate the existing Charger fuel fill line from the gas fill cap – thru the top of the inner fender well? Your pics show you used a 1 inch fuel hose from around the back of the shock tower….but your pics don’t show how that fuel hose connects to the fuel fill inlet pipe that connects to where the gas cap screws into fuel fill line. The Challenger fuel flip cap extends about 2.5 inches into top of fender – then transitions to the fuel fill line which is about 1.5 inch dia where the vent line is incorporated in…total distance from top of RR fender to bottom of this vent in the fuel line is about 8 inches which puts this well into top of the wheel well sheet metal. I see you were able to install the Charger plastic inner fender well…but I didn’t see how you accommodated the rubber fuel line to hard line above plastic inner fender at fuel pump inlet. Did you install a 90 degree hose fitting directly after the vent part of fuel fill pipe? Or do something completely different?
Question……
I like the installation of the Challenger fuel fill door in the top of the RR fender. A Side wall fill would have prevented fuel flow into the fuel line to fill the gas tank. How did you accommodate the existing Charger fuel fill line from the gas fill cap – thru the top of the inner fender well? Your pics show you used a 1 inch fuel hose from around the back of the shock tower….but your pics don’t show how that fuel hose connects to the fuel fill inlet pipe that connects to where the gas cap screws into fuel fill line. The Challenger fuel flip cap extends about 2.5 inches into top of fender – then transitions to the fuel fill line which is about 1.5 inch dia where the vent line is incorporated in…total distance from top of RR fender to bottom of this vent in the fuel line is about 8 inches which puts this well into top of the wheel well sheet metal. I see you were able to install the Charger plastic inner fender well…but I didn’t see how you accommodated the rubber fuel line to hard line above plastic inner fender at fuel pump inlet. Did you install a 90 degree hose fitting directly after the vent part of fuel fill pipe? Or do something completely different?
CJD AUTO
Well-Known Member
I want to take a few minutes and vent. I want everyone to know just how poor of a job Tom Argue Designs (http://tomarguedesign.com) did on the body work and paint.
He quoted to replace the right rear quarter, gap and fit panels, and paint the car. The corners cut and poor workmanship as made putting this car back together, with trying to make things fit, seal, and look good almost impossible.
He was provided the glass, trim, and vent windows, necessary to properly fit the car together and perform body work. None of these things were ever used.
I have the car at the glass shop now and they are fighting the rear window. The problem? The glass wasn't set in place to verify channel clearance. Argue has the quarter sucked in at the roof seam so tight, that a clip cannot be installed without hitting the glass. The body work on the roof and sail was done without the trim, so it varies in height 1/8" along the trim. Gaps from trim edge to body vary 1/8" too (looking straight down on trim) With the glass set with a 3/8" seal, the distance to the edge of the body is varying an 1/8" on the top and bottom.
Next issue is the vent windows (which he lost and swears he never had). The driver and passenger door vary 1/2" side to side measured from the A pillar. The passenger door is 1/4" too far forward and the drivers door is 1/4" too far back. The vent frames are not meant to be adjusted forward and back, just the tilt. I had to grind and slot the vent window frames on each side so they would fit. On the passenger side, this meant moving the frame 1/8" back from the stock location. It's not enough, but cannot move anymore. The vent window is too tight the the A pillar trim (drags and scratches on it) and the door glass barely makes contact to the rear window. It will leak and be a huge source of wind noise, when I say barely, I mean maybe a 1/16" of the front glass trim covers the rear glass.
The drivers side is just the opposite, I have the vent window slotted to move it forward, as far as I can go, and my gap to the A pillar is 1/4"...Yes, it's going to leak and have horrible wind noise. This caused an issue with the rear of the door glass as well. It's too close to the rear window, so now that had to be moved back. This all affects how the glass fit's and seals to the weatherstrip at the roof. It's 1/4" too far one way or the other, and the curve and slight notch of the top of the glass doesn't line up anymore. The rear edge trim either hits the drip rail molding to get the front to seat and seal, or has a gap at the front to clear the back trim. Fought this for two days, and got it the best I could, but the suck part is how it will be perceived. The installation of the vent and door windows looks like crappy quality work that was just thrown together. Same with the rear window and trim. It's the details that massively let this car down.
Moving on to paint. When I first got it back, I noticed 80 grit scratches in almost every panel on the car. These are obviously from the bodywork stage, pounding on poly primer and not letting it cure before moving to the next grit. Unfortunately with a metallic, no amount of cutting or buffing will fix this. The metallics are "laying" differently in the scratches, which makes them really stand out.
Their is a fair amount of trash in the paint, that was simply cleared over, some in some very high visibility areas and what appears to be brush touch ups in the base coat. The sills and jambs are ridiculously horrible, just tons of trash. We repainted the jambs after installing the strikers and that really helped clean it up.
I painted the engine compartment before it left. When they were doing the body work and sanding on the car, they "bumped" the inside panels in many places, knocking paint off. They didn't bother to fix any of that. They scratched and chipped the panels and just let it fly.
Now if this was a 10K job, I wouldn't bitch, but when the original quote was 15-18K and then doubled. I EXPECT a much higher level of quality and workmanship for the price Tom Argue charged. It's clear that the car sat at his place for years with little work done and then "slam dunked" in a few months prior to being delivered. It shows.
He quoted to replace the right rear quarter, gap and fit panels, and paint the car. The corners cut and poor workmanship as made putting this car back together, with trying to make things fit, seal, and look good almost impossible.
He was provided the glass, trim, and vent windows, necessary to properly fit the car together and perform body work. None of these things were ever used.
I have the car at the glass shop now and they are fighting the rear window. The problem? The glass wasn't set in place to verify channel clearance. Argue has the quarter sucked in at the roof seam so tight, that a clip cannot be installed without hitting the glass. The body work on the roof and sail was done without the trim, so it varies in height 1/8" along the trim. Gaps from trim edge to body vary 1/8" too (looking straight down on trim) With the glass set with a 3/8" seal, the distance to the edge of the body is varying an 1/8" on the top and bottom.
Next issue is the vent windows (which he lost and swears he never had). The driver and passenger door vary 1/2" side to side measured from the A pillar. The passenger door is 1/4" too far forward and the drivers door is 1/4" too far back. The vent frames are not meant to be adjusted forward and back, just the tilt. I had to grind and slot the vent window frames on each side so they would fit. On the passenger side, this meant moving the frame 1/8" back from the stock location. It's not enough, but cannot move anymore. The vent window is too tight the the A pillar trim (drags and scratches on it) and the door glass barely makes contact to the rear window. It will leak and be a huge source of wind noise, when I say barely, I mean maybe a 1/16" of the front glass trim covers the rear glass.
The drivers side is just the opposite, I have the vent window slotted to move it forward, as far as I can go, and my gap to the A pillar is 1/4"...Yes, it's going to leak and have horrible wind noise. This caused an issue with the rear of the door glass as well. It's too close to the rear window, so now that had to be moved back. This all affects how the glass fit's and seals to the weatherstrip at the roof. It's 1/4" too far one way or the other, and the curve and slight notch of the top of the glass doesn't line up anymore. The rear edge trim either hits the drip rail molding to get the front to seat and seal, or has a gap at the front to clear the back trim. Fought this for two days, and got it the best I could, but the suck part is how it will be perceived. The installation of the vent and door windows looks like crappy quality work that was just thrown together. Same with the rear window and trim. It's the details that massively let this car down.
Moving on to paint. When I first got it back, I noticed 80 grit scratches in almost every panel on the car. These are obviously from the bodywork stage, pounding on poly primer and not letting it cure before moving to the next grit. Unfortunately with a metallic, no amount of cutting or buffing will fix this. The metallics are "laying" differently in the scratches, which makes them really stand out.
Their is a fair amount of trash in the paint, that was simply cleared over, some in some very high visibility areas and what appears to be brush touch ups in the base coat. The sills and jambs are ridiculously horrible, just tons of trash. We repainted the jambs after installing the strikers and that really helped clean it up.
I painted the engine compartment before it left. When they were doing the body work and sanding on the car, they "bumped" the inside panels in many places, knocking paint off. They didn't bother to fix any of that. They scratched and chipped the panels and just let it fly.
Now if this was a 10K job, I wouldn't bitch, but when the original quote was 15-18K and then doubled. I EXPECT a much higher level of quality and workmanship for the price Tom Argue charged. It's clear that the car sat at his place for years with little work done and then "slam dunked" in a few months prior to being delivered. It shows.
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I can't say how angry that makes me and it's not even my car...
I had a horrible experience with a "Corvette Specialist" body and paint shop that was SO BAD I had to sell the car because I couldn't live with what I had done to it. The accident was my fault, no other car involved, and I was ashamed to have not been able to get it fixed properly.
I won't go into details because it would still make me angry...
Let it suffice to say that if the shop owner or anyone else who worked there was on fire, I wouldn't piss on them to put them out if they begged me to...
I had a horrible experience with a "Corvette Specialist" body and paint shop that was SO BAD I had to sell the car because I couldn't live with what I had done to it. The accident was my fault, no other car involved, and I was ashamed to have not been able to get it fixed properly.
I won't go into details because it would still make me angry...
Let it suffice to say that if the shop owner or anyone else who worked there was on fire, I wouldn't piss on them to put them out if they begged me to...
whayden2003
Well-Known Member
Just trying to make sure I read that correctly.
He charged you 30k+ to replace a quarter panel,take care of panel gaps, paint door jambs and exterior of the car??
He charged you 30k+ to replace a quarter panel,take care of panel gaps, paint door jambs and exterior of the car??
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