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Super-bee_ski's 1963 Dodge "Max Wedge" clone resto "Round-2"

Dang Ski, looks like your trusty ballcap has seen more action than John Rambo! LOL. Progress is looking good! 81F Degree's.....geesh! -17F Below without the wind when I headed to work yesterday.

Think we need to get you the typical western hat and attire:

clint-eastwood-high-plains-drifter.jpg
 
that's a great look
 
Yup,
I cant "rub it in" for the East Coaster's
I spent 20 years their growing up.
No more shoveling snow, chipping ice off the car windows for me

God Bless all of you in the extreme cold!
 
28 Feb 2015 UPDATE:
The Auto Metal Direct 1963 Front Valence arrived Friday 27 Feb.
"AMD" produces the Highest Quality reproduction body components in todays market, BAR-NONE!
AMD is the Paradigm for reproduction panels/components.
The 1963 Trunk pan AND the 1963 Front Valence I have purchased from them is proof.
Superb quality.

I had been looking for 2 years for a suitable Front Valence panel, I purchased 2 and they needed so much body work they were not worth restoring.
I was ready to give up.
And this year AMD announced they were introducing a replacement panel!
Hallelujah!
 

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Nice progress Ski! Keep after it buddy

I'm sure everyone will want a report on that new panel from AMD ;)
 
Hey buddy,, using the same parts, same company i do agree with ya!!! AMD does make some good repo parts for sure, as of late i have bought a number of body, rails ect from Mark, (moparmarks) Good stuff my friend and original to these cars, thought id add this and maybe help you out in a small way.... You have this project looking fine as frogs hair, super cool and i imagine your enjoying it! I know i would and i do as i move along with mine.. keep on keepin on bud!!! :)
 
Thanks "Guys"
It has been a long road.
Often thought about selling the car after the 4.5 years "STUCK" in Phoenix Auto" where I live and losing the $6,300 to them.
 
super-bee_ski, man that was a hard hit that would take a regular man clear out. awesome build and better days to you.
 
Go Ski!.....PPG DP-40 for initial base? the media blast is probly soft enuf that it didn't really etch any "Teeth" like hard media, sand, glass.....myself, i would 80 it out some for whatever initial coat you'll use to bite into...just insurance. Thing scarin' me about the goat, before my entry, they squirted a PPG urethane sealer on the bare after the blast, i think they let it sit too long beforehand and they didn't rerough the metal......i have hit some areas where the feather is poor.....totally beyond my control or ability to do anything about. major body work has been completed for better than a year now and nothings broken, i consult the Man^ now & then asking His insurance. Car is being boarded out in 220 & 400 wet @ present. Yes it looks like You're starting in virgin territory....metal looks real decent. i'm envious that You're doing Your car and i'm still doing other peoples...hope to change that this year, even if it's just a hepped up 22 ft class C Dodge/Fireball auto-crosser/drifter....Hope You your progress is smooth, steady, continuous and Fruitful........j
 
That is one sweet ride,and your making some great progress now! They are the first real "muscle" cars in my opinion.
 
SKI, ill bet your glad that temptation didn't work and you still have this beauty, I can only imagine the waiting and everything but heck, im glad and i only get to look at it lol! I think you have quite the ride in the making there buddy! ENJOY!!! :)
 
Ski...my bad, i wasn't caughtup, without realizing it when i posted this afternoon...oops looks Great Man.
 
Friday 06 March 2015
1600Hrs PST
Progress....as you can see.
seems like "WE" left the Trunk-Lid" at the media blasters, "Pacific Coast Powder Coating", Palmdale, CA)
Great guys! I had all of the Superbee's front end A-arms etc powder coated there along with the 63 Polara components.
I think they found the trunk lid...fingers are crossed! LOL

- - - Updated - - -

super-bee_ski, man that was a hard hit that would take a regular man clear out. awesome build and better days to you.
Yeah, I'm still dealing with some internal "anger issues" crypldog, I hold it in but I am upset with Phoenix Autobody.
I keep hoping that old saying: "Karma Rules the Universe" come into play someday!
Oh well, it's guys that you who've given me the fortitude to pursue this project!
Thanks man!

- - - Updated - - -

That is one sweet ride,and your making some great progress now! They are the first real "muscle" cars in my opinion.

Chargin': I agree with you! These "unsung heroes" from the past were true beasts! And yet, the Barrett-Jackson "SHEEPLE" still want a 69 Resto-Mod Camaro and are willing to pay $90K + for one! Golly! It is hard to imagine huh?

- - - Updated - - -

Ski...my bad, i wasn't caughtup, without realizing it when i posted this afternoon...oops looks Great Man.

Thanks Bladecutter!
Thanks for your support and positive words!

CRANKY: This was all in that Metal Direct Primer straight from Pacific Coast Powder-Coating. That way the metal does not rust.
All we did was "scuff" and hand sand it lightly. The regular primer goes right over it.
I know you know this, just presenting it to the forum, it's better than bare metal.
 

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Ski - looks great - nice Progress! I love the hood scoop on those old bodies - it will look bitchin'!

But, um, I think you should go with bigger wheels... :toothy2:
 
yup I agree with going with bigger wheels :headbang:
 
kil'r Man...i wazsn't aware that AMD mixed and sold their own chemicals. Good prep move i like to give the metal some teeth and pre-kleeno(R-M 900). PPG DP-40 is very good product that has good etching properties and can be used as sole etch sealer or can be shot rich and used to build and block....alt is Vari-prime zinc type PISSED on...leave transparent, don't color with it, scuff it light with red pad and hit with a medium coat of one of the bonding clears/adhesion promoters and hit with initial build primer. I've always stayed partial to the good quality polyesters, like glasso & sikkens...fillers are polyester, so i keep the materials the same as possible.(i don't use straight 'bondoe' either, i keep everything waterproof mixes waterproof long hair chop, short hair chop and then for a mud i mix polyester 2 part glaze with the short chop, mix WELL befor adding creme hard and you end up with a waterproof fill that shrinks less & has some structural integrity to it.) I have been using the Axis urethane build primer and i've got to say i'm really pleased with it's shrinkage rate.....usually after about three days of sitting in sun after fresh prime, i'll see some settling into bodywork scratches and related flaw.....this stuff, in areas where i know i left some errant 80 scratches in fill work, reveals no sin....i usually wait about a week before i start blocking out....there ain't no substitute for time and no better insurance to a jobs longevity than allowing ALL materials a Good cure window before working them and sticking more material on top....post cure is a bitch.....paint can vent solvent up to a year...solvent is density....density evaporates, things settle. Keep cruisin Ski.....i'll shoot some pics of the point we're at right now on 62 Grand Prix & when iget them, updated pics of Goat. Stay Streamlined
 
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