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Temperature Issues

T

Tyron68

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I have 1968 charger with a 440. It is a factory non-AC car (doesn't have original motor). I installed a vintage air kit in it a few months back. The car ran hot during the "bad months" already and it seems to have gotten worse since I put the AC kit in. It had an oversized fan in it with no shroud. I put the correct 18.5" fan in it and got an OEM shroud. Seems to have helped a little but not a whole lot. Reading in some other forums it looks like there are different water pumps for AC/Non-AC cares (6 verse 8). Is that a good place to start? Thoughts/Opinions? I don't want to go the aluminum radiator route just yet because of cost. I drove it last weekend and it got up to almost 220 degrees. It was about 95 degrees outside. The temp seems to spike at idle and then drops down when I get going.
 
lower octane fuel, 440 (probably rebuilt with more hp?), AC in a non AC car, 95 degrees. You pretty much have a worse case scenario there. In this situation, you are asking an awful lot of a 22" radiator 3 row factory radiator. Actually, you are asking even asking a lot of a 26" 3 row radiator. most of the cheaper aluminum radiators you can get online may still leave you coming up short.

You can try a lot of little things but it sure looks like you just don't have enough volume of fluid for that combination.
I know you don't want to spend the money but $400 may save you a boat load of work, frustration and potentially damaging the motor.
 
What are your current timing settings?
 
I’m going to try flow cooler this time for the pump. I had great luck with edelbrock before on different cars. I haven’t had one since private equity got involved and I always see PE as a red flag. Especially for healthcare. I’m finding my factory 440 with AC car is running a bit hot with the ac on.
 
Ccas said:
lower octane fuel, 440 (probably rebuilt with more hp?), AC in a non AC car, 95 degrees. You pretty much have a worse case scenario there. In this situation, you are asking an awful lot of a 22" radiator 3 row factory radiator. Actually, you are asking even asking a lot of a 26" 3 row radiator. most of the cheaper aluminum radiators you can get online may still leave you coming up short.

You can try a lot of little things but it sure looks like you just don't have enough volume of fluid for that combination.
I know you don't want to spend the money but $400 may save you a boat load of work, frustration and potentially damaging the motor.
Click to expand...
I put 91 Octane in it (with Octane booster if I remember to add it). The engine was rebuilt by previous seller. I couldn't get any info from the seller regarding the engine rebuild. I bought the car a few years ago from a woman that got the car as part of a divorce settlement, so she had no clue. I figured the radiator was most likely going to need to be replaced. Any suggestions on a good, quality aluminum radiator? Imagine there's probably a thread on here about radiators.
 
People keep posting, worrying about their cooling system.
220 is not too hot. Water boils at 212. Water in a radiator with a pressure cap boils higher. A mixture of anti-freeze and water under pressure is a LOT higher.

Boil.jpg


I haven't seen anything less than a 16 lb cap used in awhile. Plain water will boil at 252 degrees there. a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and water will boil at 267.
My car runs right at 200-210 in 110 degree summer heat. No detonation, no stumbling or bad habits. I have a factory shroud, 18 1/2" fan with clutch, an ECP 26" radiator and Flowkooler pump:

IMG_4553.JPG
 
Tyron68 said:
I put 91 Octane in it (with Octane booster if I remember to add it). The engine was rebuilt by previous seller. I couldn't get any info from the seller regarding the engine rebuild. I bought the car a few years ago from a woman that got the car as part of a divorce settlement, so she had no clue. I figured the radiator was most likely going to need to be replaced. Any suggestions on a good, quality aluminum radiator? Imagine there's probably a thread on here about radiators.
Click to expand...
The second post here is from a radiator vendor. I have no experience with their products but they have a good reputation.
 
Temp dropping as you pick up speed is a hint that need more airflow. Check opening for rad. See if have 22 in opening or 26. If 22 will be more work to upgrade rad. Good luck.
I use a custom made crossflow rad by prc. 26 and dbl electric fan
 
Tyron68 said:
I put 91 Octane in it (with Octane booster if I remember to add it). The engine was rebuilt by previous seller. I couldn't get any info from the seller regarding the engine rebuild. I bought the car a few years ago from a woman that got the car as part of a divorce settlement, so she had no clue. I figured the radiator was most likely going to need to be replaced. Any suggestions on a good, quality aluminum radiator? Imagine there's probably a thread on here about radiators.
Click to expand...
The 91 helps. Rohm and Haas lubricants/oil division did some extensive testing on octane boosters back in the 80's and it was determined that they didn't work. The only real products that boosted octane were those that contained a high concentration of lead. These products are all now illegal. So again, you still have quite a few hurdles to get over.

I'll shoot you a PM so this doesn't turn into a radiator thread as there are plenty already available for you to read.
 
Higher octane only helps IF your engine needs it. If you don't knock with 87 octane, premium isn't doing anything but costing more money.
 
Last edited:
Ccas said:
The 91 helps. Rohm and Haas lubricants/oil division did some extensive testing on octane boosters back in the 80's and it was determined that they didn't work. The only real products that boosted octane were those that contained a high concentration of lead. These products are all now illegal. So again, you still have quite a few hurdles to get over.

I'll shoot you a PM so this doesn't turn into a radiator thread as there are plenty already available for you to read.
Click to expand...
Sounds good.
 
I did have another question. I purchased a replacement fan clutch (Oreilly's part #2747) because that matched the fan I had in there previously (it was recommended to replace since I replaced my fan). Is there a different fan clutch I was supposed to upgrade to since I put the AC kit in it?
 
If you have the room to accommodate it, the 2747 is fine. It is the one to the LEFT here:

IMG_4557.JPG


It is fairly easy to install. The one to the right is the stubby 2947 that we often have to use with thicker radiators. That one is a pisser to install. If the taller 2747 fits, I highly recommend that you use it.
 
Kern Dog said:
If you have the room to accommodate it, the 2747 is fine. It is the one to the LEFT here:

View attachment 1677780

It is fairly easy to install. The one to the right is the stubby 2947 that we often have to use with thicker radiators. That one is a pisser to install. If the taller 2747 fits, I highly recommend that you use it.
Click to expand...
Ok good because that's the one I installed....
 
Do you have a 22" or a 26" radiator ? First off, I'd recommend taking it to a radiator shop to have it boiled out. Yes, there are different water pumps, you might want to use the A/C pump as well. Either of these should help your cause, and as said in post 7, your temp is not that bad.
 
WileERobby said:
Do you have a 22" or a 26" radiator ? First off, I'd recommend taking it to a radiator shop to have it boiled out. Yes, there are different water pumps, you might want to use the A/C pump as well. Either of these should help your cause, and as said in post 7, your temp is not that bad.
Click to expand...
I have a 26" radiator. Boiling out radiator?
 
Radiator repair shops will put radiators in a tank with chemicals to clean out corrosion, restoring the flow to new levels.
Sometimes the gunk inside will not come out and you end up with a bill for the service and a junk radiator.
 
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