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Temporary fix on header

Wietse

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He guys,

Found myself a nice crack.....
In the header tube of cylinder #3 that is.
What could be done as a temporary fix to prevent it from breaking/leaking without removing so i could still drive it this summer.
I have a TIG welding machine but not sure if putting a "hard" weld in place is a good idea.
I will not be able to weld it all shut in situ, would really have to remove it.
Just looking for a band-aid solution.
Due to another project around which i want to get build partially so i can keep it outside under a car cover i do not have the space and time to get the headers pulled out.

Plan for this winter is to get a set of new headers, most good tips i read here are TTI 440 178 series headers.
Pricey but worth every penny as how i understood.
As for the TTI headers, would it benefit to go for the polished ceramic coated (C5) headers compared to the "standard" type?
Or the nickel plated (C1) would stay nice as well? It mentions on the website they susceptible to bluing, but would they start to rust?

Needs to go into a '69 Coronet with 440, auto trans, power brakes and power steering.
Any advice is appreciated!!

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As a temporary fix (and I do mean temporary) Clean the area and ruff it up with coarse sand paper then put a coating of JB Weld if you have such a thing in your area. As Frank says above if the metal is thick enough tig weld it. drill a small hole at each end of the crack to keep the crack from running before welding it up.
When you do the TTI's I highly suggest the ceramic coated for best long life.
 
Thx for the suggestions guys,
I know what you are on about with JB weld, it might be available here.
For welding i will try and see if i can get the torch in there while actually still seeing what i am doing, it is pretty tight.
Might ask my buddy who has a MIG welding machine to give it a few stitches and get some JB weld or something similar.

Understood on the TTI headers, i was wondering if this coating remains intact or burns out over time.
How are the TTI exhaust kits?
I've come across the 3" exhaust kit with Dynomax super turbo mufflers, with H-pipe, assume this is also a good fitment kit with some good sound.
 
Ive had this happen on a truck.
Unless you fix this properly, the crack will only spread until a hole develops. I tried to jerry rig it and it didnt work.

The proper fix would be to drill a small hole at either end of the crack and weld from end to end.
That would involve removal of header.

Replacing the headers with a quality set is what I would do because more cracks will probably develop.
 
If you do remove it to weld, bolting it to a spare head to keep it in shape might be a good idea. If you have a spare head, that is.
 
Thx for your opinion guys,

To get the old headers out i need to lift the engine as well, who knows how far up!
I am keeping ready a set of new motor mounts as well to replace at the same time.
If i do get them out i also will have to repair some threaded holes in the cylinder head due to poor threads so i will have to drill and install some heli coils.
Guess the best bet is to remove the engine completely as i want to do this anyway to clean and paint the engine bay.
Too bad this happened summer time...
 
No the ceramic coating would/should last many years.Just some FYI, These are photos of the TTI complete header/exhaust kits. Now these are from a A body small block and are TTI's shorty headers.I did a complete install over on A Bodies only under the "How To Articles" if you wanted to check it out. Also are photos from a 64 Belvedere Poly 318 install.
I have been installing the TTI's for better than 20 years. They sell some good products.
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For a temp fix, research the JB weld stuff and also research YouTube for simular quick fixes. It won't be pretty but will be temporary and will allow you to drive on the narrow streets of Holland for a few months.
How's the weather in Netherlands? I'll be there in 10 days for a roadtrip through Europe. Not sure if I need mostly shorts or pants lol.
 
Throw some muffler bandage around the crack, put a hose clamp around it and run it for the summer.
 
The problem that I've found trying to weld exhaust manifolds, header pipes, wood stoves, is that the molecular composition has been compromised with all of the extreme heat and heat cycles. In other words all of the carbon has been cooked out of the steel. Touch it with a welding electrode and "poof"! you end up with a big hole. About the only way around this is to braze it with a torch and use a much lower heat. Tig it on a low setting with brass might work but I've never tried brass with a tig.

The bandaid and a clamp might be a better idea with the headed still bolted up.
 
Thx for the suggestions guys,

I had a look but will not reach it with TIG, i can get it close but can't see what i am doing.
And indeed, then burning a hole in it will be even worse..

Darter6, thx for the pics, yes it seems TTI is doing a good job on their products.
I checked their website and was quite surprised to see they had made such extensive lists of combo's that work/don't work.

Slepr1: The upcoming week they expect around and above 30 Deg Celsius.
Guess after it will keep decent, which country's are you travelling through?

Throw some muffler bandage around the crack, put a hose clamp around it and run it for the summer.

Maybe i can use some of that, add some metal plate/tube around the area for support (if it does break fully) and secure it with hose clamps.. :D
Proper engineering :bananadance:

khryslerkid: I have been welder the first few years of my work history, what you said could be the reason indeed that the metal composition is so off due to the hot/cold process.
Also, when welding something, the metal right next to the weld tends to get the hardest which is most sensitive for cracks

Th nearest TTI vendor, which is in Germany, charges $2700,- for a set of headers and an complete exhaust system :(
If i hear any of you ever complain about prices..... :elmer::lol:
 
Pfff, i tried all ways but i cannot even get a hose clamp around the damn tube.
Just because it starts like a square, and goes straight to a 90deg bend.
I can see now the crack has gone around already for maybe 70% of the circumference, just holding on the last bit...
I don't want it to blow off and torch my engine compartment with all hazardous consequences so guess i'll have to get some new stuff and just bite the bullet.
Time to go rob a bank...too bad i don't have my favorite escape car :(
 
Fine wire mesh with jb weld and haywire
will not look pretty but may do the job
 
Slepr1: The upcoming week they expect around and above 30 Deg Celsius.
Guess after it will keep decent, which country's are you travelling through?

Thanks for the reply. I checked a couple weeks ago about weather in July and it said low to mid 20's. I guess I'll pack more shorts lol. We are starting in Amsterdam, driving through Germany, Austria, Italy, Switzerland, Belgium...kind of a big circle. We don't spend much time in each city, just the 'back-roads' road trip kind of thing. Once we find out what areas or countries we want to revisit, we'll return and concentrate on that area. I reserved a gas car as they wanted another $4 a day for a diesel car. Now I hear gas is super expensive there. But is the upgrade worth it?
 
Yeah it is hot this week here in the Netherlands.
Next week it will not as hot but believe still around 20 deg C, so get them shorts ready.

Not sure how many miles you will be driving, but diesel price here in the netherlands is Euro 0.30 cheaper per liter.
In Germany difference is around 20 cents, Belgium is almost same.
In Switzerland diesel is more expensive strange enough.
You could figure out the difference, keeping in mind the diesel will have way better milage then an gasoline car.

Prepare to pay around Euro 6,- per us gallon for petrol. :BangHead:
 
Guys, how i understand a mini starter is required for fitting the TTI headers right?
Any recommendations for a starter?
Also little doubting regarding what size exhaust system i will require, as per TTI website the 2,5" is for engines running under 475hp.
Mine has been modified but i guess it is not making more then 425-450hp with it's stock heads.
Do like a rumbling V8 sound so i hope a 2,5" would give me what i am looking for.
Therefore i also think i will go for the H-pipe design as it apparently gives the best sound.
Any reasons for sticking to a 3"?
 
Google for ‘ dbelectric’ for a good starter price.
 
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