Dang that’s a fast street car great job.
Thank you for the acknowledgements, but it's nothing compared to the ruthlessness out there carrying a whole lot more weight. I would be minced meat in a comparison run against cars at 4000 Lbs with two hair dryers and digital fuel injection pumping in power from all corners.Dang that’s a fast street car great job.
Dang that’s a fast street car great job.
Here's my friends bench seat three pedal tribute '68 Hemi Super Bee. It should be weighing at 3800-3900 Lbs with the mega Hemi block it carries upfront, but a few well known diet tricks have been applied here to bring it down to 440 wedge weight. 3640 Lbs at it sits.Thank you for the acknowledgements, but it's nothing compared to the ruthlessness out there carrying a whole lot more weight. I would be minced meat in a comparison run against cars at 4000 Lbs with two hair dryers and digital fuel injection pumping in power from all corners.
I just like the fact that an average project can be a Trojan horse in some circles.
Here's the '68's aluminum driveshaft painted and patina'd to look like a fresh steel shaft complete with faked weld bead heat marks. This is at the now infamous Area 51 garage.Here's my friends bench seat three pedal '68 Hemi Super Bee. It should be weighing at 3800-3900 Lbs with the mega Hemi block it carries upfront, but a few well known diet tricks have been applied here to bring it down to 440 wedge weight. 3640 Lbs at it sits.
If you were to ask me, YES, there's a lot left on the table as far as more extreme tricks that could possibly bring it to a realistic 3500 Lbs, but he loves it as it is, so I just bite my lips. LOL.
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So here is the engine compartment. Nothing special other than it is nestling a Hemi. Though the mega block is heavier by a few pounds from an original block, the car was able to obtain Wedge weight stance by use of the usual suspect parts. Aluminum water pump, aluminum water pump housing, aluminum thermostat goose neck, home made aluminum alternator brackets complete with the factory dimple stamped out for good measure, aluminum intake manifold, aluminum heads, all painted Hemi orange.Here's the '68's aluminum driveshaft painted and patina'd to look like a fresh steel shaft complete with faked weld bead heat marks. This is at the now infamous Area 51 garage.
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Thank you. I'll let him know.Nice work.
Here's the splash shields mounted underneath. Wafer thin I tell you.I'll let him know.
Here's a big difference in weight for the under fender rubber flap seals. The metal splash shields themselves have been chemically milled to wafer thin. The metal splash shields weigh practically nothing now from a few pounds ago.
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Front ends. A chapter in itself.What about front wheel hubs, strut arms etc. So much in the front end parts is the weight loss i'm looking to change. Pricing has to play part of weight lose.
Meanwhile back at the ranch..... these are the inner doors of the '68 before being sealed up with their upholstered door panels. Note the drilled out window crank arms and very carefully trimmed inner door skins. The main rooster wheel can not be seen in this picture, but trust me, it's got a few ventilation holes. Looks factory ahh? Removed about two pounds per door and the windows slide up and down with no effort at all. Don't laugh, every ounce counts where it counts.Front ends. A chapter in itself.
Weight: A factory front drum brake setup is lighter than a factory front disc brake setup. Some drums are lighter than others, particularly the non finned/non cooling types. The smooth outer face ones are lightest depending on manufacturer and material content. Bendix seems to be the lightest.
Now if an aftermarket lightweight disc brake setup is preferred, then that's a different story. There's countless makes out there.
On a drag car that is not too fast and has enough shut down area to stop, a good working drum brake system will do the job without the drag that disc brake rotors have. I believe that slamming brakes with either discs or drums is NOT a necessary thing at the track. Tapping a few times and then using the last turn off is always cooler for the brakes and your nerves.
Of course less weight comes with this advantageous territory. Less weight, easier and shorter stopping. More weight, freight train blues.
Some guys have been known to back off the contact drag on the drum shoes to free wheel the car for less drag. Old Super Stock trick.
There's a bunch more (working within reason) with the all the other front end parts that have been done out there. TBC with pictures.
Meanwhile back at Area 51's skunkworks with the mysterious Dodge. A finished and now functioning door striker in T-7075 aluminum in comparison to its stock sibling on top.Meanwhile back at the ranch..... these are the inner doors of the '68 before being sealed up with their door panels. Note the drilled out window crank arms and very carefully trimmed inner door skins. Looks factory ahh? Removed about two pounds per door. Don't laugh, every ounce counts where it counts.
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Wow, that's a very decent amount of rotating weight removed. Pays high dividends on all sectors of a pass. I guess the spacing between those iconic spokes on SS's and the slender 4" rim width cuts down on the lard.I changed out my front tires yesterday I took the stock steel wheels and tires off and replaced with vintage direct bolt cragar SS 4” wide . It took 19 pounds off the frontend I did it more for looks than anything else .
Here's the rear sets which are still onboard . Photo credit: Hemi-Itis.Wow, that's a very decent amount of rotating weight removed. Pays high dividends on all sectors of a pass. I guess the spacing between those iconic spokes on SS's and the slender 4" rim width cuts down on the lard.
My replacement of aluminum centerlines smoothies with a more stock looking (steely Dan's) aluminum wheel actually added a pound or so over the centerlines, but still lighter than a real steel wheel. I'm happy with the relatively light health and stealth since I'll find the pound or so elsewhere.
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Exhaust, a whole other chapter in itself.My steelie street tire setup is 80 lbs heavier than my centerline/skinnies/slicks setup. If I drop off the exhaust too, I can save 150 lbs.
I'm thinking about a much less extensive exhaust system as an experiment.
I think I can cut exhaust weight in half.
This was Pontiacs attempt at unloading the load from its factory exhaust header systems. A no, no when using pure aluminum. They did achieve one thing though for a pass or two, they shaved more than 40 Lbs off the front ends at 27 Lbs compared to the purported 72 Lbs for the cast iron types.Exhaust, a whole other chapter in itself.
Where did you get those very cool.Wow, that's a very decent amount of rotating weight removed. Pays high dividends on all sectors of a pass. I guess the spacing between those iconic spokes on SS's and the slender 4" rim width cuts down on the lard.
My replacement of aluminum centerlines smoothies with a more stock looking (steely Dan's attached below) aluminum wheel actually added a pound or so over the centerlines, but still lighter than a real steel wheel. I'm happy with the relatively light health and stealth since I'll find the pound or so elsewhere.
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