The Elephant In The Room: unloading the load from a B-body.

[fullmetaljacket]

While the wheels are turning on the subject of wheels, here's a little subtraction of weight on the rotating end of things with an aluminum hub assembly. T-7075 material. I'm not next to the numbers at the moment, but the weight reduction wasn't that much, perhaps a pound or two.

View attachment 1482615

Mounted on the spindle with a Wagner finless drum. This is the lightest drum out there short of a 1980's Chevrolet aluminum drum. The vibration spring ring has since been removed because it was in sad shape, but it took off a few ounces. Some drums out there will not hold balance well without this spring ring but this assembly lucked out with vibration free service. Drums are different from different manufacturers.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Mounted on the spindle with a Wagner finless drum. This is the lightest drum out there short of a 1980's Chevrolet aluminum drum. The vibration spring ring has since been removed because it was in sad shape, but it took off a few ounces. Some drums out there will hold balance well without this spring ring but this assembly lucked out with vibration free service. Drums are different from different manufacturers.

View attachment 1482624

A mist of cast iron paint brought a heavy look to the aluminum hub. A set of titanium dirt track studs here shaved a 1/2 pound or so.

 

[Badvert65]

I discovered that used drums are a lot lighter than new ones.
used smooth 10x2.5 rear drum: 13.4lbs
New smooth 10x2.5 rear drum: 17.6lbs
New smooth 10x2.5 drum turned to the max: 17lbs
New finned drum 10x2.5: 19.8lbs
The used drum had the spring, the new ones didn't.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

I discovered that used drums are a lot lighter than new ones.
used smooth 10x2.5 rear drum: 13.4lbs
New smooth 10x2.5 rear drum: 17.6lbs
New smooth 10x2.5 drum turned to the max: 17lbs
New finned drum 10x2.5: 19.8lbs
The used drum had the spring, the new ones didn't.

I discovered that used drums are a lot lighter than new ones.
used smooth 10x2.5 rear drum: 13.4lbs
New smooth 10x2.5 rear drum: 17.6lbs
New smooth 10x2.5 drum turned to the max: 17lbs
New finned drum 10x2.5: 19.8lbs
The used drum had the spring, the new ones didn't.

An idea that I still have not done partially because of time and other factors is an aluminum brake drum set up on the rear.
If I would have thought about this when I was having my Dana built by Dr. Diff, I would have done it then.

Basically a Dana can be had with any combination of a particular axle end tube flange, backing plates, brake hardware and axles. So if a Dana could have Chevrolet axle flanges on the end tubes, Chevrolet backing plates, Brake assembly along with a GM pattern axles and their GM wheel stud formation, an aluminum option could be trick.
The 1980's aluminum drum assembly's found on some Firebirds and Malibu's 1983-'87 could go along for the drive, but the only thing is that GM stud pattern wheels would have to be used. Quite expensive trick for a few rotating pounds after the Chrysler pattern has been in place.
A guy I know has been using rear aluminum drums on his F.A.S.T class Nova after I mentioned the change over option to him, but that was an easy switch for him being that it was all a GM product to begin with. For the Chrysler dudes, it's not so easy a transition budget wise. Though I have to say that the aluminum drums were obviously much lighter than any cast iron drum out on the field.

 

[Badvert65]

I have thought about the GM Aluminum drums as well. They are 9.5 x 2.75 and they weigh in at roughly 8 pounds. I was considering the switch but redrilling the drums for the Mopar bolt pattern. I'd have to come up with the backing plate and hardware so this idea hasn't really materialized.
I did find out that there is an aluminum brake drum for a Mercedes application that is 10x2.5 with a 5 on 4.5 inch bolt pattern. The problem with that is that they are very hard to find and used examples go for $250+ each. Yikes!
I have been searching for a suitable aluminum wheel cylinder as this could potentially save about one pound per wheel. Cast iron cylinders weigh in at 1.25 - 1.5+ pounds each while a similar sized aluminum cylinder weighs in at 0.4 to 0.6 pounds each.
So far, I haven't found anything that would be a direct bolt in, but I am still looking.

 

[RemCharger]

There's a hell of a lot of unnecessary material in the Iron w/c's .. if a guy could cnc them down like an engine block..

 

[fullmetaljacket]

I have thought about the GM Aluminum drums as well. They are 9.5 x 2.75 and they weigh in at roughly 8 pounds. I was considering the switch but redrilling the drums for the Mopar bolt pattern. I'd have to come up with the backing plate and hardware so this idea hasn't really materialized.
I did find out that there is an aluminum brake drum for a Mercedes application that is 10x2.5 with a 5 on 4.5 inch bolt pattern. The problem with that is that they are very hard to find and used examples go for $250+ each. Yikes!
I have been searching for a suitable aluminum wheel cylinder as this could potentially save about one pound per wheel. Cast iron cylinders weigh in at 1.25 - 1.5+ pounds each while a similar sized aluminum cylinder weighs in at 0.4 to 0.6 pounds each.
So far, I haven't found anything that would be a direct bolt in, but I am still looking.

9.5 X2.75 may not be enough braking surface to stop safely. It would almost be like using small A-body 9" brakes (which were prone to be sketchy at speeds) on a 4500 Lbs C-body going downhill.
I think tire weights have more effect on rotation weight because their weight and mass is on the outer reaches of the wheels while in spin mode. Ever spin a weight on the end of a string tide to your finger?

 

[fullmetaljacket]

9.5 X2.75 may not be enough braking surface to stop safely. It would almost be like using small A-body 9" brakes (which were prone to be sketchy at speeds) on a 4500 Lbs C-body going downhill.
I think tire weights have more effect on rotation weight because their weight and mass is on the outer reaches of the wheels while in spin mode. Ever spin a weight on the end of a string tide to your finger?

Wandering back to the top of (region one) and the power mill itself, aluminum carb mounting studs with aluminum lock washers and nuts. All four stock ones were 3.55 ounces. Four aluminum types are 1.35 oz. Saved 2.20 oz.
I know, I know. LOL. Find 1600 places to SAFELY remove an ounce and 100 pounds gets the boot.
PS: the composite wood thematic spacer over an aluminum one saves a few more believe it or not and gets rid of heat faster. It's a perfect buffer in between a hot engine/intake manifold and a sitting duck carburetor.

 

[Badvert65]

I have a chrome Holley 600 that weighs 11.2lbs, one of the new all aluminum 600's weighs in at 6.6lbs (without choke).

 

[fullmetaljacket]

I have a chrome Holley 600 that weighs 11.2lbs, one of the new all aluminum 600's weighs in at 6.6lbs (without choke).

That is significance right there. A carb that cuts the carbs off by 4 Lbs on top and front. Priceless. Lots of plastic parts in those things these days.

 

[33 IMP]

That is significance right there. A carb that cuts the carbs off by 4 Lbs on top and front. Priceless. Lots of plastic parts in those things

I should have weighed my new 850 race brawler. (Aluminum) verses the zinc 4781 I took off. 4lbs difference wouldn't surprise me...... but that is just a side benefit in this case.

 

[33 IMP]

Jacket, what do you use for an air cleaner?

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Jacket, what do you use for an air cleaner?

Jacket, what do you use for an air cleaner?

K&N 14" X 4" on an aluminum deep drop base and contoured aluminum top for the street............ and you guessed it, an aluminum air cleaner stud and nut. I have a picture of it somewhere.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

K&N 14" X 4" on an aluminum deep drop base and contoured aluminum top for the street............ and you guessed it, an aluminum air cleaner stud and nut. I have a picture of it somewhere.

Here's the valve cover hold down studs, washers and nuts. 6 studs is 6ix too many for me, so they had a metamorphosis moment come into play.
Now if you wanna have a deep look at those valve covers, I'll have to find the pictures to help explain the madness behind those. Long story, but they're feather light.

Note the intake bolts. Titanium.

Also note the header bolts. Titanium.

Also, also note the cam valley cover plate. Yes aluminum, but it's thick and I hate its look. I'd rather a stock tin valley cover which is both lighter and stealthier.

Also, also, also note the plug wire loom brackets. also aluminum. An ounce here, an ounce there.

 

[Badvert65]

Here's the valve cover hold down studs, washers and nuts. 6 studs is 6ix too many for me, so they had a metamorphosis moment come into play.

OK, so what's the story here?

 

[fullmetaljacket]

OK, so what's the story here?

Are you guys sitting?
It's kinda long, but I'll give the edited version to fit the screen.
So here you have a basic 440-6 engine and with the exception of the three carbs, it's looking rather docile in its factory pajamas, steel valve covers and all.
Menacing? maybe, maybe not. but if I were running such a mill, it would be much lighter than what the look gives off. So let's keep those steel valve covers in mind.
To be continued later when I get back.

 

[33 IMP]

Not real stealthy (still says MOROSO in big letters) but my gold moroso's with a coat of turquoise don't weigh much. Paint is necessary, the gold was too scratched up.
Gonna go out and weigh my 4781 and aircleaner now......

 

[Badvert65]

Not real stealthy (still says MOROSO in big letters)

Nothing a little hammer work couldn't fix.
jus sayin.....

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Nothing a little hammer work couldn't fix.
jus sayin.....

So as y'all know, valve covers come in all variety's. Be them chrome steel, painted steel, cast aluminum, billet aluminum and even plastic. Ironically, some aluminum types (usually billet or cast) tend to be heavier than the ordinary factory stamped steel covers.
So what's one to do?
Look no further than the stamped anodized aluminum covers made by either Moroso or Direct Connection. These things are super light and some are getting more expensive by the year since they were last produced 20 years ago or so. There's a catch though, they don't look stock or stealthy and tend to bend or distort easily with too much pressure applied at the fastener points.

There's a lesson to be learned and earned here with patience being the underlining factor. Stay tuned.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

So as y'all know, valve covers come in all variety's. Be them chrome steel, painted steel, cast aluminum, billet aluminum and even plastic. Ironically, some aluminum types (usually billet or cast) tend to be heavier than the ordinary factory stamped steel covers.
So what's one to do?
Look no further than the stamped anodized aluminum covers made by either Moroso or Direct Connection. These things are super light and some are getting more expensive by the year since they were last produced 20 years ago or so. There's a catch though, they don't look stock or stealthy and tend to bend or distort easily with too much pressure applied at the fastener points.

There's a lesson to be learned and earned here with patience being the underlining factor. Stay tuned.

View attachment 1483845

View attachment 1483847

Over the time that this idea was running through my head, I decided that the Moroso types were the best to work with even though the letters were larger.
Why?
Less body hammering work over a small surface area thus less distortion when grinding the letters almost flush with the rest of the surface.
Basically, I laid the valve covers over a small shop anvil with the logo face up and carefully hammered the letters as flat as I could using special flat face body hammers like the ones below. Patience, patience. All of this was while flipping the valve cover over and over, but mostly gently working the top face flat.