That is about as perfect as a guy can expect, I have never been quite that lucky. All my bell housings are over 50 years old however, that is a nice looking piece.
That is about as perfect as a guy can expect, I have never been quite that lucky. All my bell housings are over 50 years old however, that is a nice looking piece.
That is about as perfect as a guy can expect, I have never been quite that lucky. All my bell housings are over 50 years old however, that is a nice looking piece.
Me personally I’d run the close ratio with a .68 for 5th and a 3.73 gear set would be perfect for that. I didn’t care to cut my tunnel on my Charger so I went with a T-56 Magnum close ratio because I like the gear ratio spread better in a 6-speed. I’m running 3.91 gears and could even do 4.10.Frame connectors and boxes look great. Yeah, I was thinking 8-3/4 is plenty for me too, but if I can get a new Dana for the roughly cost of a new sure grip chunk and restoring what I have, I might as well go with the new Dana.
My understanding of the TKX is it comes with two options, a close or wide ratio:
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Figuring out my gears is what is holding me up on pulling the trigger ordering the TKX and rear end. You are way ahead of me on this build so I will be curious what you end up with and your assessment. I'm just shooting for a fun driver.
Looking good and you are flying along. You have your own body guy that comes to the house? and can you send him here?
Careful rolling that backwards - looks like there could be a tipping point when the wheels are pointing away from the transmission. I had a similar occurrence once with my setup I was rolling around. I thought it was OK but suddenly it toppled and broke both my transmission and my bellhousing.
Looks great RC!
How is the space on the sides for headers, etc.? Since you have the revised front suspension, will you change up the inner fenders as well?
Did you use the thinner version of undercoating to achieve a smoother finish when paint is applied or the can type you use a shultz gun to applySeven cans of spray undercoating later ….
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And I have a new freshly cut hole in the floor.
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I just used SEM spray cans and applied it heavily in the spots I had cleaned off. It’s not completely uniform with the factory applied stuff, but it’s good enough. I’m not worrying how good the underside of the floor pans look.Did you use the thinner version of undercoating to achieve a smoother finish when paint is applied or the can type you use a shultz gun to apply
Side note:
Nice job so far Mark.Seven cans of spray undercoating later ….
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And I have a new freshly cut hole in the floor.
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Side note:
The Holley 3G Hemi motor mounts move the engine forward 1.75" for what I'm guessing is better clearance for the front end accessories. This is in applications using a stock K member. Those that go this route must test fit the engine and trans to ensure that the shifter stub and doghouse are in the correct position.
I recall that you're using an aftermarket K member. I wonder if they place the engine forward as well. This will affect water pump/fan to radiator clearance.
Without looking at it, how much wiggle room forward would you have? Is it possible to lower it? I'm not familiar at all w/Gen 3 hemis, but what is that box on the rear? Can it be relocated? I'm ignorant on them.
The reason I ask about the wiggle room is this past winter I moved a SBC forward 1.25 in and lowered it 1.5 in in a street rod by fabricating new motor mounts. Then re-fabricated the trans mount.
Your build will be amazing RC.