The Willomet Charger

[1970RT]

Nice work David. You are a real craftsman with metal. Being meticulous shows in the fit of the parts you work with. Very nice.

Thanks man. I have the benefit of being able to take my time, and I’ve found that’s a powerful tool to have on hand.

David

 

[Brandy]

Even m ore powerful is the ability to leverage that time with skill.

 

[1970RT]

Charger-related video is live - have to practice before striking an arc on the car.


David

 

[Brandy]

Charger-related video is live - have to practice before striking an arc on the car.


David

Thanks David, always enjoy seeing your vids..

 

[Average Joe]

Nice!

 

[1970RT]

One step back. I lost control of the heat in a panel, so I made a repair patch. Here’s the step by step.

I’m going to make some new copper backers just for this patch, especially since I can’t planish after the weld. But first, I’m clearing my headspace and working on the rockers.

David

 

[Brandy]

Real craftsman.

 

[1970RT]

Real craftsman.

With the aid of YouTube and a couple of books, I’m trying to be.

Meanwhile, rockers are roughed in. Lots of fine fitting to do.

I really like clecos.

David

 

[1970RT]

Both rockers are finely fit, cleco’d, and ready to get burned in. I ran out of weld thru primer, but got nearly everything else done.

The Rev2 rockers address the water that will inevitably will make its way into this part of the original structure, and so just like the factory did, I included two drain holes in the design. There may still be a third depending on how the rear quarter integrates.

The entire lower lip is now planished to the rocker plate, so the fit should be snug all the way. I was concerned about air gaps creating a home for rust.

Now for a crazy busy week of work.

David

 

[Brandy]

Both rockers are finely fit, cleco’d, and ready to get burned in. I ran out of weld thru primer, but got nearly everything else done.

The Rev2 rockers address the water that will inevitably will make its way into this part of the original structure, and so just like the factory did, I included two drain holes in the design. There may still be a third depending on how the rear quarter integrates.

The entire lower lip is now planished to the rocker plate, so the fit should be snug all the way. I was concerned about air gaps creating a home for rust.

View attachment 846509

Now for a crazy busy week of work.

David

Excellent work David. Do you have a plan for the triangle shaped hole in the corner where the planished lip curves up against the 90* at the rear end?

 

[1970RT]

Excellent work David. Do you have a plan for the triangle shaped hole in the corner where the planished lip curves up against the 90* at the rear end?

Thanks dude. Both that gap and a smaller one 3/4 toward the rear will seal up against the 4x2 inner rocker. I actually have to slightly reshape that specific open triangle since it’s not actually flat to the bottom of the rocker - just a goofy part of the factory stamping.

David

 

[Greg Ducato]

You continue to raise the bar in metal working skills, truly a pleasure to behold the handiwork!

 

[watermelon]

once i get finished with my ride im sending it straight over to you for a complete redo



watermelon

 

[Brandy]

Outstanding craftsmanship.

 

[1970RT]

It’s a full weekend of fine fitting, welding, and blending.

This is the last artifact of the old rocker shape, which (turns out) isn’t that flat to the rails. This is what @Ghostrider 67 was asking about earlier. Easy fix.

There are 200ish tack holes, 50 per flange per side.

Burned in and blended. Go slow and manage the heat. I did 3 tacks per side, air quenching each one.

Super straight upper flange.

Detail shot of the 1/8” kickup for the quarter panel, fully planished for a tight fit to the inner plate.

Next up, burn in the lower plugs and prep for assembly of the rails.

David

 

[Brandy]

It’s a full weekend of fine fitting, welding, and blending.

This is the last artifact of the old rocker shape, which (turns out) isn’t that flat to the rails. This is what @Ghostrider 67 was asking about earlier. Easy fix.
View attachment 850255

View attachment 850261

There are 200ish tack holes, 50 per flange per side.
View attachment 850256

Burned in and blended. Go slow and manage the heat. I did 3 tacks per side, air quenching each one.
View attachment 850257

View attachment 850258

Super straight upper flange.
View attachment 850260

Detail shot of the 1/8” kickup for the quarter panel, fully planished for a tight fit to the inner plate.
View attachment 850259

Next up, burn in the lower plugs and prep for assembly of the rails.

David

Yup, that was indeed the area I was referring to. Great job and super clean too. Your attention to detail is above par for sure!

 

[1970RT]

I had a full week of travel, and lost a few days to the flu. I must have licked an armrest somewhere. Making the most of the downtime, I worked on drawings and video editing.

Here’s the final frame drawing. There are minor tweaks to the front, mid, and rear widths. All this junk gets burned in starting Saturday, 10/26.

David

 

[Brandy]

Glad your better. Looks great. Remember.....measure twice & cut once!!

 

[1970RT]

It was a full weekend of chassis building.

The Charger will only fit in the suburban this one time.

Setting up at my friends shop...

...he has two large fixture tables we made great use of.

Large rear torque boxes, and that crossbeam is placed at the same spot where the factory floor raises to the back seat - 33-1/2” forward of the axle centerline.

ChassisWorks from crossmember

Front torque box detail

The modified X, making room for the setback powertrain.

A long and enjoyable day of welding.

You can really get a sense of scale for just how big this car is.

Everything is back at my shop, and there’s a load of detail pieces left to work - T plates, cap passes, driveshaft hoops, engine mounts, shear plates, and more stuff I’m forgetting.

David

 

[Average Joe]

Nice!