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Thinking About Switching to a Light Synthetic

67Satty

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I've been using 10W-30 Valvoline VR1 but my oil pressure gauge is pegged on cold start up and never drops below 40 psi at a hot idle and runs at about 75 psi hot at anything at all over an idle.

For more background, I'm running a high volume pump, Wix filter, 440Source 7 quart pan with 7 quarts in it, and a windage tray.

So I'm thinking of running a lighter weight synthetic that also has enough zinc in it for my flat tappet cam. Amsoil DOMINATOR 5W-20 seems to fit the bill of being a lighter weight synthetic that also has enough zinc in it.

I'm also toying with the idea of running 6 or 6 and 1/2 quarts instead of a full 7 quarts or maybe even putting in a standard oil pump.

What do you think of my ideas? I appreciate any advice you guys can give me.
 
I would not want anything that thin in my 440. Amsoil Signature 10-40 high zinc has performed well over 40 thousand hard miles. Oil pressure pegs on start up, then drops a bit. Synthetic already a thinner molecular comp if I understand it. Wix.
 
I run 0W30 Royal Purple in my 572. 100 psi cold, 65psi@7000 hot. I've checked the rod bearings in mid season, look good.
Doug
 
I saw a thread on Speedtalk where someone made a pretty convincing argument for using a combo of high volume oil pump with lighter weight oil. There was stuff about the thinner oil flowing more freely and carrying away more heat and the high volume pump maintaining pressure with the thinner oil.

They referenced a Car Craft article from within the last couple years where they tested different combinations of oil pumps and weights and measured HP and oil temp. Bottom line seemed to be the light weight oil, high volume pump combo freed up a few HP while having the coolest oil temps. Food for thought.
 
Also, I should have mentioned that I have hydraulic lifters. Does this matter when switching to a lower viscosity or is the only thing that matters is that there is adequate oil pressure for the hydraulic lifters?
 
67, have you considered a lighter pump spring to get pressure down to where you want it. I would stay with the heavier viscosity.
 
I suppose it depends on the bearing clearances. I had a 383 that never saw less than 100 PSI and it seemed to survive just fine. I'll add that the gauge might have been off, but the same pump with the same gauge on a different engine saw 70 PSI. That other engine was a 426 Max Wedge with .006" rod and main clearances. Not that it was available then, but I wouldn't think of running 5-20 in that. I ran straight 40 in the 426 and 30WT in the 383. I have read that some guys making a record pass will run 10WT to free up some HP but didn't have much good to say about the after effects. The comments you brought up from CC are food for thought.
 
You may already know this... IMHFO It really depends on your assembled crank & rod bearing clearances, every engine is different & you really shouldn't base your specific combo on what someone else's car has or does, unless they are nearly identical combos, weight, HP/TQ, fuels, gears, tuning, ignition, compression etc.... To me it's all about the more clearances the more pressure you could/should run, probably more viscosity too... Also you should run an oil that is the best for lubrication, wear & temperatures in the range you need them for your specific type build... I personally like my engine oil temps to be about the same as engine operating temps 180*-190*, It served me well for many years... In my race cars, I used exclusively Torco Racing Synthetic Oils {it ain't cheap & I never had a failure due to the oil breaking down} for many years 30-40w N/A engines & up-to 70w for Blown/boosted or N20 combos, depending on temps & specific combos or fuels used etc., I ALWAYS RAN an O-berg screen Filter & a dual remote oil adapter with K&N 3000 filters with a #10 line out of the oil pump & back into the pump, it drops the oil pressure maybe 5psi max thou {I like Royal Purple too, cheaper more readily available than Torco Racing oils & I've had really good luck in my street/strip cars, with no failures, because of oil yet}... I used what works best for me, not what someone else used... I would changed oil viscosity to achieve the proper engine temps & oil temps, but also checked bearings regularly to make sure they aren't discoloring, burning or scuffing because of starvation &/or heat because of lack of viscosity or heat... IMHFO a lightweight oil maybe good for a record pass here & there, but the gains aren't hardly worth the results or wear, but I wouldn't recommend it for full time usage either, unless you have a multi-stage or dry sump oil system or an external racing type oil pump & vacuum pump... IMHFO your oil temps will sky rocket, if it's too thin & wipe the bearing pretty quickly.... I also wouldn't suggest that you run less volume of oil {like 6qts} in a 7qt pan system, your defeating the purpose of a larger capacity oil pan & high volume pump, for more oil to keep the sump/pick up submerged & the extra oils cooling abilities... IMHFO you could starve the pump/pickup on hard launches or hard deceleration/braking with a high volume pump & 100psi will drain the pan pretty damn quickly... I wouldn't really worry about the cold oil hi 100 PSI's... I would suggest you run the engine long enough, to get the proper heat into the oil & engine before any passes down the track too, far too often people don't let the engine & oils get to proper running temps before making a pass & they have problems with wear... 67satty good luck what ever you choose to do...
 
I hear what you are saying about getting your oil up to the proper temp before making a run. Problem as you know is sometimes there is a lot of hurry up and wait in the staging lanes. Like if I'm already in the middle of a line of cars in the lanes, then something happens and it takes awhile for cleanup, and we are all stuck while our cars cool down again, then it's hurry up run these things whether you are up to temp or not or lose your spot in staging.

Here's some data points I found online to add to the discussion:

I was surprised to learn that way back in 1969, the Plymouth FSM recommended 5W-20 for colder climates. Now fast-forward to light-weight synthetics that are designed to be used year round. Makes me wonder...

Then I found this:

Here are some guidelines one can reference from Joe Gibbs Driven.

Viscosity typical of SAE 0W-20

- Engines with clearances under .0020"
- Engines operating with oil temperatures between 130F to 220F

Viscosity typical of SAE 5W-20

- V8 engines with clearances under .0025"
- Engines operating with oil temperatures between 180°F and 240°F

Viscosity typical of SAE 10W-30

- Engines with clearances under .0027"
- Engines operating with oil temperatures between 200F and 280F

Viscosity typical of SAE 15W-50

- Engines designed for SAE 50 weight oils. (Meaning big fat bearing clearances)
- Engines operating with oil temperatures between 240°F and 320°F

Then there's people saying most of the bearing wear happens at cold start up and that is where having something thinner can help.

Just throwing all this out there for discussion...
 
My bearing specs with 0w30. Mains .028-.030, rods .029-.031. Standard 440 mains,2.2 rod journals. Oil temp is seldom over 150 F even with a diapered pan. With high flow (loose clearance) the oil temp stays low. In my case the load carrying ability of the oil film has not allowed metal to metal contact.
Doug
 
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