--- thanks bearman, it will hook sooner or later.
Time to hit the Track.
- Thread starter malex
- Start date
Mike Gaines
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- Apr 17, 2014
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- Ahwahnee, (Fresno) California
Yes, those 2 videos were horrible launches.
Keep at it ,you will find the combo.
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They sure were Mike. They are all like that and the one with only 2 notches of rebound on front and rear would be a good amusement park ride.
Unless I run out of adjustment, I will get it.
I did send Calvert the vid with their suggestions for shocks settings and they got back to me, they were like - wow, the rear wheels almost lifted off, check the rear shock travel. Unfortunately we previously clarified that. Still waiting to hear back from QA1 to see what their tech thinks and recommends.
Today though, the grandson and I are going on Safari. He's 11 now and time to set the hook. We found our prey in Montana.
64SF
Well-Known Member
Nice Dart...had one just like this same color with a white vinyl top. 340/4 speed. Converted to automatic car was freaky fast for what it was. Best time was 12:25.
Have enjoyed your thread....your work and car is awesome.
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bearman
Well-Known Member
Dumb question because I'm clueless with the mono spring should the rear be more stiff. And the front more loose to transfer the weight to the back.
Spring only holds the car up with a mono leaf. Just stiff enough to hold the cars weight. The actual rotational/forward load is handled by the Cal Track/Assasain Bar, etc.
Doug
Tex013
Well-Known Member
Malex ,
I would also consider the Viking shocks , I have their rears .
You can replace their valving yourself quite easily and they sell replacements happily . I have their tight radial valving
Tex
I would also consider the Viking shocks , I have their rears .
You can replace their valving yourself quite easily and they sell replacements happily . I have their tight radial valving
Tex
NSS Guy
Well-Known Member
We have about the same combo, gears and converter. 4.30 and 5500 stall. Calverts and sliders, 64 Plymouth. My front end is super loose easy to lift up, calvert non adjustable. Shocks. Here are 3 time slips from the spring, 50lbs of ballast in trunk, foot brake.
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18 is the last notch, there's a half turn left, maybe that last little bit might make a difference.
My request for tech support from QA1 came up empty handed, will have to make a phone call and see what valving is available for these QA1 TD901's.
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That's good to know Tex, another option. I would think that QA1 gives that option, I'll be inquiring with them.
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Very nice and consistent NSS. I'm hoping for similar at some point.
I did hear back from Calvert: "You may try lowering the launch RPM, between the low gear set, loose convertor and all the power/torque, the starting line ratio may be too high."
Hmmm.
I'm already leaving at the bottom of the dial, 3000 so my last option here is to move up to the top hole and see how that works. I have to trim my spring boxes to be able to use the upper hole, which is why I haven't tried this yet.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
What is the SLR and how much power?
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Thanks 64SF. The thing I always remember with those old Darts back in the day is when you bang a gear you think the whole dash is gonna land on your lap. Lol. I'm sure you had fun in yours.
This one has been sitting for many many years. I believe that it originally came off the road due to an accident on the left side. There's damage on the left fender, door and quarter, and it came with a spare left fender and door, both mint.
Without a title the only way to get across the border was as parts. So that's the way it comes home. Crossing over yesterday they didn't even ask to look in the trailer, told them old car parts and showed the bill.
I did find a parking receipt inside from Seattle, had to be in there for decades.
The Dart needs floor patch panels on both sides in the front and a left side quarter skin. Rust is minimal throughout, it was a good find but will take back seat to the 64. It's a winter thing.
Even came with a full tank of gas..
Anyone want a Super 225 and trans? It stays behind.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Sorry. Starting Line Ratio. Rear gear x low gear. Yours is 11.36 which is fine at a low power level. As you increase power, you can take out SLR to “calm the leave”. I’m at 9.13 for comparison. 2.45 low x 3.73 rear at 4100# leaving on 700-900 ish hp depending on if I spray. What kind of power do you have?
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I'm 720HP/677TQ. QA1 replied and suggested I lower the car if possible. Really.
They also suggested sending the shocks to one of their dealers for re-valving. Neither of those suggestions worked for me. Especially when guys with Viking shocks can do their own re-valving.
Starting line ratio just multiplies engine torque. However look at the torque input. 11.36 x 677=7690.72 Mine runs 10.53. If we take that overall number 7690.53/10.53=736.36. If I was a betting man, I'd say mine makes more torque than that. In fact my bet is there are guys hooking well over 1000 ft/lbs on Cal Tracks. Sooo, we are back to getting the shocks/bars in the right spot. The more torque you can hook at the starting line, the quicker it'll go. Don't give up and band aid it. The key is to let the tire work, but don't punish it. You're going in the right direction, carry on.
Doug
Doug
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Agreed. I'm convinced that re-valving the shocks, or better shocks would straighten things out but before I throw another handful on money that way I'm going to make sure I've left nothing on the table.
NSS Guy
Well-Known Member
How do you have the caltracs adjusted? Preload or none? Instead of lowering the car, crank up the torsion bars and raise the front, this will put more weight on the rear. Then readjust the caltracs. I run zero preload on the bars, the pin just touches the spring on my car. just some suggestions that don't cost any $$$$
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