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Tremec 5 speed conversion in a 1970 Charger

I bought the windage tray in Van Nuys at the Spring Fling about 3 years ago. Bob Mazzolini racing. I can't blame him though. I'm sure HE didn't make this POS.
 
You can see that the tray is dry on the side rails between the ribs.

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Thank you.
I know that for some, there is probably too much deviation from the central goal here. Wiring changes, console modifications, header clearance, oil pan repairs, etc.
Some of the stuff I cover will apply to someone. I am also open to suggestions as I make my way through this.
Actually, the Mods should make this thread a sticky in the Driveline forum.
 
Time for some Fel Pro, or equivalent, race gaskets with a standard windage tray. Maybe pre assemble the pan/gaskets/tray together with some sealer and let it set up by itself before you toss it on the engine with another thin layer of sealer. Put some weight on the pan while its curing, maybe even on an upside down block so you can have all the holes lined up so its ready to go when it goes back into the car.
 
You're reading my mind, CK !
I have just the thing planned. I'll paint the pan tomorrow and get working on that gasket sandwich too.
 
You're reading my mind, CK !
I have just the thing planned. I'll paint the pan tomorrow and get working on that gasket sandwich too.
That all sounds great except I have a question:
If you pre-assemble this great pan/tray/gasket sandwich, how will that affect getting the tray maneuvered
around the oil pickup?
 
Thats pretty terrible... I have one of the Windage tray/gasket combo deals but it doesn't do that & it seals great... Think I'd be sending pictures to Summit on that....
BTW I run the same pan.. It's very well made & shouldn't have any issue sealing
For the record, please state specifically what brand (part number?) tray and gaskets you used? :)

I bought the windage tray in Van Nuys at the Spring Fling about 3 years ago. Bob Mazzolini racing. I can't blame him though. I'm sure HE didn't make this POS.
Same question to you, sir. Let's get a record on what specific tray has failed you here as well, please. :thumbsup:
 
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I've got the same windage tray at least it appears to be, mine fits properly but as you mentioned they don't seal because of the dimples in the pan. I used RTV to seal mine up (filled the dimples) but the first time you remove it it pulls the gasket off of the tray. Next time I pull it I'm going with the typical metal tray and gaskets. It's a great idea just not well thought out, how many people want to pay$$$$ for an aftermarket pan just so they can use it?
 
Time for some Fel Pro, or equivalent, race gaskets with a standard windage tray. Maybe pre assemble the pan/gaskets/tray together with some sealer and let it set up by itself before you toss it on the engine with another thin layer of sealer. Put some weight on the pan while its curing, maybe even on an upside down block so you can have all the holes lined up so its ready to go when it goes back into the car.
They make a contact cement gasket maker, just like contact cement it glue's them in place instantly.
 
My thinking was to cut down on potential oil leaks when dealing with 4 pieces at the same time while you are trying to keep the block drips out of the area.
 
UPDATE!

The windage tray/gasket is probably not entirely to blame. I took a couple pictures of the only identifying marks on it:

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This wasn't very helpful.
A guy on another thread wrote that this tray didn't stop the leaks with his "402" pan. I decided to see how it lined up with my original 1970 402 pan.

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That actually looks better than with my Milodon pan. The pan covers more of the tray. I noticed that the punched holes in the pan had more metal to the outside edge on this 402 pan compared to the Milodon.

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I painted the Milodon pan.

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Okay, so the flange seems a bit thinner, right?

402 pan:

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That is 24 5/16".

Milodon pan:

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24 1/16". That is a 1/4" difference. THIS explains why the windage tray seemed longer/too long and hung out past the pan rail.
Conclusion......I'm saving the tray to use with a stock type pan and going with the gasket sandwich!
 
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This is an awesome thread, KD. I’d seen bits and pieces pop up on my feed every now and again.
Last night I read the entire thread from start to finish, all twenty seven pages. Took a couple of hours.
I couldn’t put it down. Well done! I learned a lot.
 
I got an email that the drive shaft is done and being shipped. With the delays I have seen with other stuff, it could still be a week.
 
The drive shaft was part of the kit.
I do have a trusted drive line shop though.
 
This is an awesome thread, KD. I’d seen bits and pieces pop up on my feed every now and again.
Last night I read the entire thread from start to finish, all twenty seven pages. Took a couple of hours.
I couldn’t put it down. Well done! I learned a lot.
Thank you. I enjoy writing about this stuff. I figure that it can even serve as a reference for myself in a few years if I forget how I did something related to this.

The left hand rocker arms....
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I pulled them off and inspected them closely. Zero defects and it all looked great. The lifters all looked fine.

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I went through and lashed the valves TWICE to make sure that I had it right. The Mopar Performance lash specs are .028 intake and .032 exhaust. With aluminum heads, you're supposed to compensate for the expansion of the aluminum and set the lash .006 tighter. I went a little more than that to close up the lash a little more. I have read of some guys running .022 intake and .026 exhaust, effectively .006 tighter than the spec. I went .018 intake, .022 exhaust so with the .006 (Aluminum grows with heat) my net lash will be .024 I and .028 E.
I removed the fan to make it easier to spin the engine with the old torque wrench and a socket.

New valley pan....

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The pan came with no gaskets, those are sold separately.
The instructions show how to install the gaskets for those that use them...

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Yes, I did put the gasket on the back side so there are gaskets on both sides of the valley pan.
The intake and carb are back on. I repainted the fan and coil bracket and they were not dry by the time I was ready to close up shop.

I did finish sandblasting the console door. It is primed along with the other pieces.

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They will get painted soon.
 
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