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Tremec 5 speed conversion in a 1970 Charger

While you have your oil pan off for repair, see if the embossed sealing ribs are going across the indents in the pan rail causing it to not seal correctly. It seems those type of gaskets are made with flat machined surfaces in mind, not stamped sheet metal like the stock engine and auto trans pans.
Travis..
I may do that. I don't recall if I looked as close as I should have when installing the plastic tray. I used the same type of gasket in the 727 and even it weeped a slight amount.
I am frustrated with dealing with leaks. It isn't so much a matter of what reaches the pavement as much as the mess it makes under the car. I bought valve cover gaskets too. I am going to start with them first. The #8 header tube had evidence of oil staining up near the port. I haven't checked the lower rear valve cover bolt on that side to see if it is tight enough. I am thinking of putting studs in the lower corners of both sides to make sure that the gaskets don't get moved on assembly.
 
There was some question as to the relocation of the main battery to starter cable. I moved it over to make room for the clutch pedal pushrod bracket awhile back.

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Now it comes through the firewall almost right behind the starter, a stroke of luck.

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The clutch housing cover is on.


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I put a little clearance dent in the right side. Not pretty but I'd rather have this than to have rattles.

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I suspected that the right side valve cover might have been leaking at the lower rear corner. When I pulled the cover off, the impression on the gasket showed it to be wet with oil to the inside and dry on the outside. All the bolts were snug so I don't think that it was leaking. I did replace the gasket with a Fel Pro 1612 thick black fibrous gasket and "The Right Stuff". I also put studs in each lower corner to keep it from slipping out of position.
 
my tko cover came unpainted. yours looks slick. im going to paint mine.

i just hit 600 miles on my tko, did a fluid change on it last night. should be good for 30,000.

you’re timing is perfect Kern...project almost over, covid almost done, longer days coming, and car shows will be back in a few weeks


watermelon
 
my tko cover came unpainted. yours looks slick. im going to paint mine.

i just hit 600 miles on my tko, did a fluid change on it last night. should be good for 30,000.

you’re timing is perfect Kern...project almost over, covid almost done, longer days coming, and car shows will be back in a few weeks


watermelon
Is yours shifting nice and smooth?
 
The spark plugs had to come out to remove the headers so I got 6 of them back in. The 2-4-6-8 plugs are a pisser with these 2" headers. #s 2 and 4 are actually best reached from underneath. I shortened a plug wire and modified a stock spark plug wire retainer to work.

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The 1-3-5-7 side has it's own obstructions. The steering box and dipstick block access to the #3 plug. Things like this test a man's patience. The LH valve cover shows no signs of leaks so it stays.
With any luck, I may coerce the Wife to help bleed the clutch master cylinder tomorrow. That should be easier than doing the brakes though I don't have carpet or seats in yet.
I'm also taking this down time to replace the fan belts. I thought that with the up and down revving with more gears, the risk of belts flying off is greater. The 2 A/C belts are correct according to the computer but I was at the far end of the adjustment and they are not tight enough. I'll get belts an inch shorter. The P/S belt is at the inner end of the adjustment so it needs to be 3/4 to 1 inch longer. The fan and idler belt flipped in the groove and needed to be replaced.
 
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Agreed on the passenger side plugs. It's almost criminal what Ma did to us on accessing those!

Again, I must commend you on the damn near sanitary results of your efforts, Greg.
Your documenting of the process, pic composition especially, are also commendable - dare I say,
magazine article worthy even? :thumbsup:
 
Agreed on the passenger side plugs. It's almost criminal what Ma did to us on accessing those!

Again, I must commend you on the damn near sanitary results of your efforts, Greg.
Your documenting of the process, pic composition especially, are also commendable - dare I say,
magazine article worthy even? :thumbsup:

huh, I have very easy access to all the plugs on my engine, I wonder what’s different?

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Now the Tremec:

View attachment 1066713

4 and 1/8". The tail shaft sits up 3/8" higher than before. The RH header sat 2 3/8" from the floor as measured by the top header bolt. It now sits 1 7/8", a height increase of 1/2".
It is hard to get real accurate numbers here but here is where I am going with all of this:
I wondered if the change in height of the transmission and as a result, the angle of the engine and headers....Would the exhaust pipes bolt up without leaking? The change in angle is probably so slight, it shouldn't matter. Regardless, I did use these gaskets:

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Might want to take a quick check of your pinion angle after raising the trans up. Could save you some drivetrain issues down the road, especially if you ever decide to romp on it pretty hard and leave the drive shaft laying in the road.
 
Agreed on the passenger side plugs. It's almost criminal what Ma did to us on accessing those!

Again, I must commend you on the damn near sanitary results of your efforts, Greg.
Your documenting of the process, pic composition especially, are also commendable - dare I say,
magazine article worthy even? :thumbsup:

Thank you.
I know that for some, there is probably too much deviation from the central goal here. Wiring changes, console modifications, header clearance, oil pan repairs, etc.
Some of the stuff I cover will apply to someone. I am also open to suggestions as I make my way through this.

The spark plugs and wires are in. I bought new belts too. The parts counter guy screwed up though. I needed A/C belts an inch shorter than what I had and he gave me them an inch longer. The P/S belt is about 10 inches too long too. The fan/crank/idler belt is just right though.
 
Geez, do you remember when those guys had actual skills....?
 
Before pulling the oil pan, I took a few pictures of the areas up front where oil was weeping out.

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You remember the area at the back too, right?

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I apologize. It is hard to see.
Oil pan is out, here is the tray. You can see that is it wet on both sides of the ribbing. This is the rear of the pan area.

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The front side shows a similar condition.

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I sandblasted the pan and cleaned all the sand out with dawn detergent and water. The pan now rests directly over the windage tray/gasket.

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That is the rear of the pan. Take a closer look.

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Yeah....Are you seeing what I see?
 
Is the other end of the gasket/seal ribbed the same? or can they be positioned differently to mate to the windage tray? Any idea what brand gaskets?
 
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The outer ribbing sits outside of the pan rail.

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This is not good. I wondered about how the ribs might not seal because of the indentations of the pan but didn't think that the ribs would stick out past the rail.

Front of pan:

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Centered with the holes in the tray:

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Anyone want to buy this...C H E A P ??

Back of block angle again.

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Just maybe those gaskets are designed for an aftermarket pan with a different style pan rail,
 
Maybe. This is a Milodon HEMI 6 quart pan.
 
Thats pretty terrible... I have one of the Windage tray/gasket combo deals but it doesn't do that & it seals great... Think I'd be sending pictures to Summit on that....

BTW I run the same pan.. It's very well made & shouldn't have any issue sealing
 
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