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Tremec TKX 5-Speed Conversion

Where did I run mine? In exactly the same place that Greg ran his. No sense reinventing the wheel.

Here's a pic prior to the grommet being installed. I forgot to take a finished pic before I left for the day. Running the Fat Mat up the firewall was a good idea at the time, now it gets in the way.

20231015_141443.jpg
 
The new passage for the 1/0 cable is a great location since it ends up allowing a straight shot to the starter while clearing the headers and engine block.
 
Glad you guys persevered. Wait till you both get my age and can't remember where the bellhousing you're sitting on is located... Hang in there...
 
I've been like that for most of my life.
If I were of school age today, I'd probably be diagnosed with ADD or ADHD. My attention darts around and I get distracted easily.
 
There is still plenty to do on this project but bear with us....I did mine when I was in between construction jobs. I had a lot of free time and the car was at my own house.
Rich is still employed and has a job that keeps him busy and his car isn't within his reach.
There are still many things left to do.
The hydraulic master cylinder needs to be installed along with the reservoir.
We need to trial fit the transmission to ensure that the hole in the floor for the shifter will be in the right spot. The car has no console so the hole has to be right where it is needed and not oversized. The hole in my floor could have been way off and the console would have hidden it.
He has to measure for the drive shaft and get one made.
The clutch and pressure plate need to be installed.
Wiring for the backup lights has to be modified to fit the transmission. That is an easy one.
Even after it is done and running, the PRND21 indicator on the column will be removed and the shifter/nub will be modified to match an original manual trans version.
I bought a switch to use as a neutral safety but I never wired it in. I always wiggle the shifter when I start the car to get it out of gear....that is a habit of mine. Rich has more experience driving manual trans cars than I do so he is even less likely than I am to forget and start the car in gear.
 
Rich is still employed and has a job that keeps him busy

1 WILD R/T suggests that Rich quits his job and finishes this project!

:lol:


yeah … skip the NSS … do the wiggle and don’t let anyone else drive the car unless trained to do so



watermelon
 
Glad you guys persevered. Wait till you both get my age and can't remember where the bellhousing you're sitting on is located... Hang in there...
I'm there now. There were a few times Greg and I were tripping over each other looking for a tool.
 
There is still plenty to do on this project but bear with us....I did mine when I was in between construction jobs. I had a lot of free time and the car was at my own house.
Rich is still employed and has a job that keeps him busy and his car isn't within his reach.
There are still many things left to do.
The hydraulic master cylinder needs to be installed along with the reservoir.
We need to trial fit the transmission to ensure that the hole in the floor for the shifter will be in the right spot. The car has no console so the hole has to be right where it is needed and not oversized. The hole in my floor could have been way off and the console would have hidden it.
He has to measure for the drive shaft and get one made.
The clutch and pressure plate need to be installed.
Wiring for the backup lights has to be modified to fit the transmission. That is an easy one.
Even after it is done and running, the PRND21 indicator on the column will be removed and the shifter/nub will be modified to match an original manual trans version.
I bought a switch to use as a neutral safety but I never wired it in. I always wiggle the shifter when I start the car to get it out of gear....that is a habit of mine. Rich has more experience driving manual trans cars than I do so he is even less likely than I am to forget and start the car in gear.
And there's at least one more precision measurement that has to be done. A "cushion gap" has to measured to space the hydraulic slave cylinder from the pressure plate fingers. Based on the runout exercise, I should have that dialed in within a couple of weeks.
 
We left off last Sunday with a verified TIR of .045" / .0225" runout. I had only purchased the .007 and .014 offset dowels because, what's the odds of the runout being greater than .019"? In my case, 100%. I had Robb Mc ship out the .021 pins during the week.
First order of business is removing the stock pins. The passenger side pin had come out earlier when we tested and then removed the factory cast iron bell (see post 185). It came out easily with a pair of vice grips. The driver's side took a little longer, but it too came out with vice grips.
After cleaning out the pin hole, in goes the offset dowels. The Robb Mc pins are convenient in that they mark the high spot on the pin (although its very obvious looking at the pin straight on). For ease of viewing in the tunnel, I applied some yellow marker paint to the high side.
The Robb Mc dowels might be a little pricier than other brands, but it's worth it. First, the diameter is a Mopar-friendly .047"; most other brands are .050" to fit Fords/Mopars. The pins tighten down in the bore by clockwise turning a small Allen-headed set screw. Two parallel sides of the pin are machined flat so that a 7/16" open end wrench can be set to counterbalance the tightening torque so the pins don't rotate. Tighten the set screw enough to give resistance so when installing the bell and pushing it around the pins don't move; but loose enough that a 7/16 wrench can rotate them for precise adjustment.
In my case, the high point of the register bore was at about 1:30, so 180° is about 7:30. Both pins have to be installed in the same orientation, with the high point of the pin at 1:30, pointing down and to the left.
Once oriented, the bell gets bolted back on. It was definitely noticeable threading the bolts; before the offset dowels were installed the bolts could be tightened down to the shoulder by hand; afterwards it needed the ratchet.
With all the drama endured determining the initial runout, the final runout was anticlimactic. First 360° came back to 0.00". The high spot was again at 1:30, but only measured .0015" vs .005" before. Zeroed out the indicator, and 180° was .010" TIR / .005" runout. Right on the edge of the spec. I was anticipating a .002" +/- based on the initial runout of .0225" - .021" = .0015". There's a lot of variables involved; the indicator might have been a few degrees off of 180. The pins could be rotated a couple of degrees to maybe pick up another couple thou. In the end, I decided to leave everything as-is.

The yellow paint is barely visible on the pins.
20231021_141047.jpg

-.010" - in spec.
20231021_125521.jpg


Completed worksheet to be sent back to SST.
20231022_200738.jpg
 
With the TKO series, the top of the transmission is more square. Because of that, the transmission tunnel needs a hole to make room:

SST 252.JPG


SST 245.JPG


Like the guy said at the strip club.....Look at the size of that HOLE.
The TKO needs it though to fit and clear the body.

SST 275.JPG


The hole gets covered though using the supplied steel sheet metal formed by hand to serve as a cover and a "doghouse".

SST 290-1.JPG


SST 293.JPG


The TKX is supposed to be thinner and narrower....requiring a smaller hole in the tunnel.
 
With the BH runout calc behind us, next up was installing the transmission without the clutch and pressure plate. The goal was to mount the trans to the BH face and get a rough idea where to cut the tunnel. SST includes a B-Body cutout template, but it's dated 2003 and meant for the TKO. The template hole would be way too big for the TKX.
Securing the trans to the trans jack, we raised it up. Note to self: when fabricating an exhaust system, best to have the front half of the exhaust system able to be unbolted ahead of the rear axle. Especially if you're running an H or X pipe. My exhaust is all one unit from the header collectors back to the chrome tips. At the time, I had a mobile exhaust installer weld up the exhaust in front of my house. It was convenient and he did a nice job; full 3" all the way out the back with all mandrel bends. But when you want to R&R a trans, it gets in the way.
We had to drop the center link in order to further lower the back of the engine, while at the same time tilting the trans upward while raising. To clear the H pipe required a series slight raises, while moving the trans jack backwards until the tail housing cleared the H pipe. Once the tail housing was above the H, we could move the jack forward while adjusting the tilt until the bearing retainer on the trans lined up with the register bore and the trans could be slipped in.
The engine and trans are still at a heavy downward pitch because the shifter nub was hitting the bottom of the tunnel. Using soap stone, I traced a crude parallelogram outline of the shifter housing, then the trans had to be removed and set aside to make room for the initial cuts. From underneath, I drilled 4 holes, one in each corner of the parallelogram.
The car can't be lowered because jack stands were holding up the rear of the engine and the exhaust, so using a ladder I climbed up into the car. The Fat Mat had to be cut away first. I also covered the bucket seat and carpeting with towels to protect from errant sparks. Using Greg's cutoff wheel and saber saw, I made the initial cuts. The old adage "measure once, cut twice" applies here because without a template you have to back-in the correct size hole. I wound up expanding the hole by 3x - 4x my original drawing before we could even attempt to reinstall the trans.

Fresh out of the box. The TKX is noticeably smaller and more rounded at the top than the TKO.
20231021_143455.jpg
20231021_143520.jpg

Fat Mat off, holes drilled
20231022_121904.jpg

Initial cut. More had to be taken out of the passenger side.
20231022_123222.jpg

It's getting closer but there should be minimum 1/4" to the tunnel to prevent any rubbing.
20231022_130054.jpg

Sometimes saber saws have a mind of their own. Went a little outside the chalk lines.
20231022_130943.jpg


The driver's side needed another cut to clear a small ear on the edge of the trans body, just ahead of the shifter. I cut a 45° angle off the corner and from underneath, Greg persuaded the tunnel with a ball peen hammer.
20231022_131034.jpg
 
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It looks like the shifter "block/base" lays lower in the tunnel with the TKX compared to my TKO.

SST 268.JPG


Look at how the gold anodized plate sits above the tunnel.

Now look at the TKX in the Coronet:

01 crro - Copy.jpg


The TKX has that black rubber seal/boot around the edge of the base.
It is clear that if one has a TKO equipped car, a swap to a TKX is a simple job since you'd already made a big hole in the tunnel.
If one with a TKX ever wanted to swap in a TKO, you'll need to make some additional cuts and build the doghouse to sit higher.
Cars with center consoles can hide the doghouse:

SST 343.JPG


SST 356.JPG


If your car has no console, you'll have to work a bit more to make precise cuts and fitment.
Even with the TKX, it looks like some sort of cover will need to be made to close off the new hole and to make a level base for the oval shaped shifter boot. One could possibly bend the shifter boot baseplate to match the curve of the tunnel.
 
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With the TKO series, the top of the transmission is more square. Because of that, the transmission tunnel needs a hole to make room:

View attachment 1544570

View attachment 1544571

Like the guy said at the strip club.....Look at the size of that HOLE.
The TKO needs it though to fit and clear the body.

View attachment 1544572

The hole gets covered though using the supplied steel sheet metal formed by hand to serve as a cover and a "doghouse".

View attachment 1544573

View attachment 1544575

The TKX is supposed to be thinner and narrower....requiring a smaller hole in the tunnel.
I like your tool bench in the background. And the wood chisel.
 
Even with the TKX, it looks like some sort of cover will need to be made to close off the new hole and to make a level base for the oval shaped shifter boot. One could possibly bend the shifter boot baseplate to match the curve of the tunnel.
There have obviously been a number of different shifter boots made by various companies: Mopar, GM, Ford and aftermarket. Maybe you can find a shifter boot that is big enough to cover it? Then, along with the idea to "curve" the boot baseplate and maybe this can all be installed without needing to add any metal?

Just brainstorming for what it's worth... :thumbsup:

1698073436544.png
 
There have obviously been a number of different shifter boots made by various companies: Mopar, GM, Ford and aftermarket. Maybe you can find a shifter boot that is big enough to cover it? Then, along with the idea to "curve" the boot baseplate and maybe this can all be installed without needing to add any metal?

Just brainstorming for what it's worth... :thumbsup:

View attachment 1544675
The SST kit comes with the boot and chrome trim ring. The trim ring is visible in the last pic on post #211. The ring works fore and aft, but the sides of the tunnel fall away at too steep an angle to be able to bend the trim ring to attach. The kit also came with an approx. 2' x 3 ' metal sheet that will have to be shaped into a small, flat doghouse. It will be less pronounced than the one Greg had to fab for the Charger.
 
The SST kit comes with the boot and chrome trim ring. The trim ring is visible in the last pic on post #211. The ring works fore and aft, but the sides of the tunnel fall away at too steep an angle to be able to bend the trim ring to attach. The kit also came with an approx. 2' x 3 ' metal sheet that will have to be shaped into a small, flat doghouse. It will be less pronounced than the one Greg had to fab for the Charger.
So please understand I am just brainstorming - not trying to be argumentative at all. You can see and understand what is needed much better than I can sitting here 3000 miles away sitting at a keyboard!

Having said that, it looks to me like the oval trim ring contacts the transmission at the 2, 4, 8 and 10 o'clock positions. What I am wondering is if there is a trim ring large enough (or more likely, squared off enough) that it contacts only the metal of the transmission tunnel? The one in my post 214 above may or may not work, depending on size.

I also fully understand if you don't want to spend the money on another boot and/or start another customization project. Fabbing up the metal may be the easiest solution after all. Again, just brainstorming for what it's worth...

Carry on gentlemen! :drinks:
 
So please understand I am just brainstorming - not trying to be argumentative at all. You can see and understand what is needed much better than I can sitting here 3000 miles away sitting at a keyboard!


Carry on gentlemen! :drinks:
I always appreciate your input Hawk. I never take it the wrong way. I have pics from the side of the tunnel that give a better perspective. I ran out of time last night but I'll post them tonight.
 
One thing I sometimes encounter when someone brings over their air tools to use here:

F86392B4-5BC1-4267-BEAC-D00AC46BBABB.jpeg

After years in construction, I fitted all of my air tools with the same 1/4” flare fittings whether they were work tools or for the backyard shop. All the air hoses here have the couplers to fit only the raised flare. I know that there are couplers that are universal but I always ended up picking the ones that directly fit my stuff.
It seems about 50/50 that a buddy comes over and he has the style on the left.
457EA53F-01F2-4F7C-B727-1389C8640F2C.jpeg


I don’t know if there is an advantage to either design. I just stuck with the raised flare for some reason.
On the job, I had a variety of adapters to allow me to plug into almost anything. On my last day before I retired, I gave away all sorts of tools and gadgets that I used on the job. I figured that I wouldn’t need most of it.
It is easy enough to just change the fittings if need be but it hasn’t come to that yet.
 
Construction workers always use the one on the right.... Mechanics use the one on the left...
 
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