US radiator for big block stroker

[lewtot184]

I've been busy working on a couple of engines (getting to were I really hate this stuff) and dealing with a half broke computer; so i'll get back to this

I found the original factory core out of the original radiator that was in my '69 r/t (the u.s. radiator was to replace the original radiator; which had been re-cored a couple of times). it's a two row, 1/2" tubes and none of the tubes are blocked off.

I found the original yellow packing slip. no costs/dollar amount on it. it's work order #133755J, dated 06/20/13, cool craft components (was the radiator sub contracted out?).

my original intent on purchasing this radiator was duplicate an existing radiator that I use in my '65 coronet (four row, 1/2" tubes, 3/8" spacing). this radiator was done by a local shop. looking it over yesterday it does have the two outer rows blocked but still has 220 fully open tubes. works super good. the u.s. radiator (#352191) has 204 tubes (figuring in the two blocked outer rows) but only 167 are fully open. does the local radiator work so much better because there are 53 more usable tubes (equal to a row)? sounds logical to me.

I also found the mancini shroud receipt. I paid about $190 to get it to my door, not the $100 I thought.

as far as sending the radiator back goes i'm just not going to throw anymore money at this. i don't know what shipping would be back and forth but doubt $50 would touch it. the core probably needs replaced, spacing on the cooler lines ended being an issue (existing lines were stainless steel and they're a pain in the butt to reform). I've learned my lesson and i'm just done with this. i'm 69yrs old and just don't have the fight anymore to deal with all the aftermarket crap. I had a couple of guys come over last night and they ask me how I learned so much. I told the the truth, the hard way!

 

[coloradodave]

I've been busy working on a couple of engines (getting to were I really hate this stuff) and dealing with a half broke computer; so i'll get back to this

I found the original factory core out of the original radiator that was in my '69 r/t (the u.s. radiator was to replace the original radiator; which had been re-cored a couple of times). it's a two row, 1/2" tubes and none of the tubes are blocked off.

I found the original yellow packing slip. no costs/dollar amount on it. it's work order #133755J, dated 06/20/13, cool craft components (was the radiator sub contracted out?).

my original intent on purchasing this radiator was duplicate an existing radiator that I use in my '65 coronet (four row, 1/2" tubes, 3/8" spacing). this radiator was done by a local shop. looking it over yesterday it does have the two outer rows blocked but still has 220 fully open tubes. works super good. the u.s. radiator (#352191) has 204 tubes (figuring in the two blocked outer rows) but only 167 are fully open. does the local radiator work so much better because there are 53 more usable tubes (equal to a row)? sounds logical to me.

I also found the mancini shroud receipt. I paid about $190 to get it to my door, not the $100 I thought.

as far as sending the radiator back goes i'm just not going to throw anymore money at this. i don't know what shipping would be back and forth but doubt $50 would touch it. the core probably needs replaced, spacing on the cooler lines ended being an issue (existing lines were stainless steel and they're a pain in the butt to reform). I've learned my lesson and i'm just done with this. i'm 69yrs old and just don't have the fight anymore to deal with all the aftermarket crap. I had a couple of guys come over last night and they ask me how I learned so much. I told the the truth, the hard way!

Lew: I just shipped an aluminum radiator from California to New Jersey. Cheapest was USPS Parcel at $65.35 plus another $5.00 for insurance.

 

[Don A]

I've been busy working on a couple of engines (getting to were I really hate this stuff) and dealing with a half broke computer; so i'll get back to this

I found the original factory core out of the original radiator that was in my '69 r/t (the u.s. radiator was to replace the original radiator; which had been re-cored a couple of times). it's a two row, 1/2" tubes and none of the tubes are blocked off.

I found the original yellow packing slip. no costs/dollar amount on it. it's work order #133755J, dated 06/20/13, cool craft components (was the radiator sub contracted out?).

my original intent on purchasing this radiator was duplicate an existing radiator that I use in my '65 coronet (four row, 1/2" tubes, 3/8" spacing). this radiator was done by a local shop. looking it over yesterday it does have the two outer rows blocked but still has 220 fully open tubes. works super good. the u.s. radiator (#352191) has 204 tubes (figuring in the two blocked outer rows) but only 167 are fully open. does the local radiator work so much better because there are 53 more usable tubes (equal to a row)? sounds logical to me.

I also found the mancini shroud receipt. I paid about $190 to get it to my door, not the $100 I thought.

as far as sending the radiator back goes i'm just not going to throw anymore money at this. i don't know what shipping would be back and forth but doubt $50 would touch it. the core probably needs replaced, spacing on the cooler lines ended being an issue (existing lines were stainless steel and they're a pain in the butt to reform). I've learned my lesson and i'm just done with this. i'm 69yrs old and just don't have the fight anymore to deal with all the aftermarket crap. I had a couple of guys come over last night and they ask me how I learned so much. I told the the truth, the hard way!

Not asking you to spend another dime and doubt that anything I say or do will change your opinions. Give me an address and I'll have it picked up and send you a refund on that invoice along with the shroud as well. No fights, no arguments, just feel your pain. D-

 

[lewtot184]

Not asking you to spend another dime and doubt that anything I say or do will change your opinions. Give me an address and I'll have it picked up and send you a refund on that invoice along with the shroud as well. No fights, no arguments, just feel your pain. D-

i'm sending you a pm.

 

[ChargingZach]

Wow! I have been trying to trouble shoot the running hot problem on my car. I decided to take steps from the cheapest to the most expensive. Almost sorted but almost in my case doesn't cut it...

1. I changed the thermo to a hi flow 160.
2. I changed the fan from a 4 blade to a 7 blade mopar fan.
3. Today I ordered a FlowKooler 1701 water pump also hi flow.
4. Rather than ordering a rad shroud for the 318 - I was going to order a radiator 4 row Hi Efficiency from US Radiator this coming Tuesday... I am having second thoughts now guys. I am now leaning towards a recore 3 row locally or buying this one from ebay... http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1967-1969-4-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

Any thoughts or comments greatly appreciated.

 

[5.7 hemi]

A 2 core with 1 inch tubes will out cool a 3 or 4 row.

 

[Don A]

Wow! I have been trying to trouble shoot the running hot problem on my car. I decided to take steps from the cheapest to the most expensive. Almost sorted but almost in my case doesn't cut it...

1. I changed the thermo to a hi flow 160.
2. I changed the fan from a 4 blade to a 7 blade mopar fan.
3. Today I ordered a FlowKooler 1701 water pump also hi flow.
4. Rather than ordering a rad shroud for the 318 - I was going to order a radiator 4 row Hi Efficiency from US Radiator this coming Tuesday... I am having second thoughts now guys. I am now leaning towards a recore 3 row locally or buying this one from ebay... http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1967-1969-4-Row-22-Core-Dodge-Charger-Champion-Radiator-with-lifetime-warranty/201670310951?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

Any thoughts or comments greatly appreciated.

This ebay unit is made in China and certainly doesn't look original to boot. All 2 row 1" tube aluminum radiators are made with what's called a "high efficiency" fin design (3/8th " fin versus OE original 1/2" fin design), otherwise wouldn't work at all, and therefore drops temperature better than OE. Because aluminum is less heat transfer efficient than copper we wind-tunneled tested and found a 4 row (1/2" tubes with 2 linear inches of fin bond per fin) high-efficiency (3/8th" fin) copper to drop temperature within 2 degrees (in-let to out-let) of a Griffins 2 row 1 1/4" tube (2 1/4 linear inches of fin bond) aluminum. The amount of fin bond to tube and tube spacing (determined by the fin heighth) is paramount in radiator core efficiency. If the heating problem happens at high speeds (when your making horse power and horse power is heat) 90% of the time the radiator or water pump will be the culprit. On the other hand, if the problem occurs mainly at low speed or idle and goes away at freeway speeds you have more than enough radiator to handle your engine when it's making real heat. In that case look to thermostat, water pump, and more importantly fan and shroud issues. Buy a radiator to solve a low speed or idle overheat issue only after you have improved or resolved coolant and air flow management issues. In short, if the problem is low speed or idle related start with the shroud and insure the fan is 1/3rd in the shroud and 2/3rd out on the back side. Any other placement will cost you about 10% of allowable air flow.