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Vintage Air installation in a 1968 Satellite

Son of a beeech.
That is a great assortment. I need to find some of those around here for other cars I’ll get to sooner or later.
Couple more points here.
This bolt:

View attachment 1616726

Is too short to attach a pair of the Adel clamps but I really do want to do that. On the engine side:

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It is nicely painted so I can’t just put in a longer bolt from ACE hardware unless…

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Dwayne did send along some touch up paint. I can paint a longer replacement bolt so it looks undisturbed.
Second…
I’ll need some type of clamp here where the screwdriver is pointing..

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Not necessarily to keep the stuff from moving but to push the hard lines in closer so those 90 degree ends are right at the 4 hole pass through panel.

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I'm sure you realize, but whatever you do, try not to put stored stress into the lines by restraining them to far from their at rest equilibrium state. That's what happened previously with my rear brake line and over a few years it turned into a leak...
 
The tight clearance of the tire to these lines isn’t ideal.
It will limit the width of the tire and wheel should you ever want to go wider, especially With more back spacing.
I’m going to mock up my own 18x 9 from the front of Ginger (my red ‘70 Charger) to see how the clearance looks. That wheel is right about the limit as to what fits a stock chassis.
 
Here is some news and it isn’t good.
I pulled the left front wheel from my car and set it next to the one from the Plymouth.

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Yeah, mine are pretty worn. I have been too busy to swap but I have them waiting….

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The heights are not far off. Dwayne’s tires are a 215-70-15 on what looks to be a 7” wide wheel.
Mine are 275-40-18 on a 9” wide rim.
His back spacing is 3 1/2”, mine is 4 3/4” so this wheel puts the rim edge 1 1/4” inboard more.

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Ooof. It is tight!

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First off, this is with worn out tires that are easily 3/8” to 1/2” shorter in height compared to new tires. Lookie….

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There is about 1/2” clearance to the fender support.

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The tire actually touches the sway bar ( I can’t hold the wheel and take the picture… the tire pulls back slightly as I release the wheel) and is almost touching the frame rail. Okay, this isn’t necessarily a tire fitment thread but….

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Uhhh, yeah. That is with the bald tire. Add 1/4” of tread and it will make contact. My concern isn’t just clearance in ideal conditions, there is also deflection to consider. Even new steering components will deflect a bit under load. If this car has wider wheels and is making a U-turn and hits a pothole or a bump, it will hit the lines.
This is a worst case scenario but it can happen.

Would you feel comfortable with this?

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Personally, I want my car to look a certain way and handle great. For me, that means sticky, wide, low profile tires. The lines as routed will limit that.
 
Comparison.

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Back to the issue of deflection… I don’t think the 18” or the 15” tire would deflect a whole lot but this routing of the lines does limit wheel width choices.
 
FWIW I don't like using the alignment access port... Unless you don't plan on having the car aligned ever again... Trust me, an alignment tech is A) gonna hate it... And B) gonna set the toe & kick it down the road..

At some point ya gotta decide, do I want A/C? Or do I want to not see anything but an engine in my engine compartment... Punch a hole for the suction line up near the horns... Run the liquid line forward & through the radiator yoke then to the receiver dryer... Turn the condenser around so the connections are both on the passenger side... Or bend up a hard line to connect the discharge of the condenser to the Dryer..
 
I had the same issue with my 71 road runner and drilled the holes further forward. I figured if I wanted to undo the damage a good welder and body shop could do it.

ac routing.jpg
 
yes, they would rub through. I always use a short length of open cell foam water pipe insulation. They type they sell at OSH or Lowe's that already has an open cut down the length. Works great.
That would make the hoses a bit thicker and require me to slide them away from the inner fender edge, toward the middle. The idea of a flat plate is much simpler and thinner.
 
That would make the hoses a bit thicker and require me to slide them away from the inner fender edge, toward the middle. The idea of a flat plate is much simpler and thinner.
flat plates rub also - maybe a plastic flat plate would be ok.
 
Yeah, I've noticed for a long time that the late 60's Dodge B bodies have different enough wheel arch sizes and clearances compared to the Plymouth B bodies to matter. The Dodges are a lot more open. I first noticed that on Dennis H's 69 Coronet. It seems to make Wheel/tire combos on the Dodges more forgiving.
 
At some point ya gotta decide, do I want A/C? Or do I want to not see anything but an engine in my engine compartment... Punch a hole for the suction line up near the horns... Run the liquid line forward & through the radiator yoke then to the receiver dryer... Turn the condenser around so the connections are both on the passenger side... Or bend up a hard line to connect the discharge of the condenser to the Dryer..
my horn is just in front of the passenger headlight. That's not where you meant is it?
 
my horn is just in front of the passenger headlight. That's not where you meant is it?
I've just looked at dozens of photos of 68 Plymouth B bodies... The horns are exactly where I expected them to be....

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If your horns aren't in the RF corner of the engine compartment then they have been moved...

If your horn is in front of your headlight something is very wrong...
 
I've just looked at dozens of photos of 68 Plymouth B bodies... The horns are exactly where I expected them to be....

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If your horns aren't in the RF corner of the engine compartment then they have been moved...

If your horn is in front of your headlight something is very wrong...
Nope, mine is exactly in that location. When I said in front of headlight, I meant on the other side of the rad core support as you show. In your original post you said run the lines forward and if you start at the horn you're already forward aren't you? I guess you meant 6 inches forward? I'm not visualizing it.
 
flat plates rub also - maybe a plastic flat plate would be ok.

The mock up I posted was a piece of thin 1/8" plastic sheet. I have a LOT of that to practice with.
It may be a moot point as other options for routing are being considered. No hard decisions have been made, this is all very fluid.

Back on point:
The path through the alignment cam hole does work but carries with it the risk of tire contact while also limiting the options for wider wheels and tires in the future.
Personally, I would not choose this for myself. Nothing is perfect but some options have drawbacks that are worse than others.
I'm considering the possibility of routing the lines from the 4 port manifold THIS way:

VA 302B.JPG


Green for A/C and orange for heater.
The drawback of routing the lines here was that the fender apron didn't have a flat enough section to allow this manifold:


VA 115.jpg


...to lay completely flat without distortion. This alone kiboshed the idea.
I didn't like the idea of warping the manifold base or the fender apron.
I conferred with Dwayne. He is concerned about the risk of tire contact to the lines and is now interested in routing the lines in the engine bay, maybe like this:

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Okay, This may work but as stated before, clearance on the interior side between the firewall and evaporator fittings is tight. Real tight for the smaller #6 line. Putting the lines in the engine side of the firewall real close to the fender apron helps some but it still will look like crowded spaghetti inside. The A/C hoses don't like to make tight bends. My concern was the delicate ends for the #6 and #10 at the evaporator end might be stressed and break. Moving all 4 lines further away from the centerline helps immensely.

I came up with this: The 4 port manifold can stay in place where it is, in the wheel well part of the firewall. Leaving it there serves many functions.
One, the 4 holes are already drilled in the firewall and the manifold is in place. The A/C fittings and hoses are in place but have yet to be crimped.

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The hose routing is clean and gently curved. The heater fittings are in but the hoses have yet to be cut to fit. That will be simple. To me, this works and should stay in place.

Again, the reason that THIS position:

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...was abandoned was because of how the square-ish 4 port manifold wouldn't lay flat on the irregular shaped apron but....what if I used individual fittings?
What if I used something like this for the heater hoses....

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....and something like these for the #6 and #10 lines?

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The smaller footprint of each of these can lay flat on the apron. Using these can allow us to avoid any tire contact issues by routing the lines behind the wheel, close to the firewall and apron.
I know that I'm a hopeless optimist but this seems like a winner.
 
As 1 Wild R/T mentioned this is the condenser with connections on the passenger side. I had room to move the dryer under the fender but I stopped worrying about the aesthetics and settled for function.

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Nope, mine is exactly in that location. When I said in front of headlight, I meant on the other side of the rad core support as you show. In your original post you said run the lines forward and if you start at the horn you're already forward aren't you? I guess you meant 6 inches forward? I'm not visualizing it.
I mean forward of the alignment access hole..
 
Well, that location could work . It looks better than going through the alignment hole. The #6 line would still have to turn frontward and go over or through the core support to reach the drier which is close to the driver side headlight.

I appreciate all pictures and suggestions. Again, there seem to be no perfect ways to do this, each option has a Pro/Con list.
 
View attachment 1616923

Green for A/C and orange for heater.
The drawback of routing the lines here was that the fender apron didn't have a flat enough section to allow this manifold:

I came up with this: The 4 port manifold can stay in place where it is, in the wheel well part of the firewall. Leaving it there serves many functions.
One, the 4 holes are already drilled in the firewall and the manifold is in place. The A/C fittings and hoses are in place but have yet to be crimped.

View attachment 1616939

View attachment 1616940

The hose routing is clean and gently curved. The heater fittings are in but the hoses have yet to be cut to fit. That will be simple. To me, this works and should stay in place.

Again, the reason that THIS position:

View attachment 1616941

...was abandoned was because of how the square-ish 4 port manifold wouldn't lay flat on the irregular shaped apron but....what if I used individual fittings?
What if I used something like this for the heater hoses....

View attachment 1616944

....and something like these for the #6 and #10 lines?

View attachment 1616945

The smaller footprint of each of these can lay flat on the apron. Using these can allow us to avoid any tire contact issues by routing the lines behind the wheel, close to the firewall and apron.
I know that I'm a hopeless optimist but this seems like a winner.
I like this approach best so far.
 
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