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Vintage Air installation in a 1968 Satellite

Mike, your post put your words next to mine. I opened it and see what you wrote.
No, the drier/dryer... (Which spelling is correct?) ...has a cap on the right fitting as seen in the picture.

I'd sure rather put the switch near the firewall for simplicity.
isn't that cap on the right side of the dryer to connect the rigid line? Should be a separate spot on there for the safety switch. Look at the dryer label and see if you can call those guys and find out. I can't recall the name of the condensor/dryer place I ordered from, but it's on the label there.
 
isn't that cap on the right side of the dryer to connect the rigid line? Should be a separate spot on there for the safety switch. Look at the dryer label and see if you can call those guys and find out. I can't recall the name of the condensor/dryer place I ordered from, but it's on the label there.
Yes, the cap on the right is where the hard line will attach. I plan to run it down to hide from view at bumper height, across the front, then up the core support and over it.

I still would rather put the switch closer to the firewall if I can.
 
Another avenue it to make your own hardline.
I ordered fittings online, some a/c tubing and aluminum soldering kit - flux and rod - and I used a map gas torch. I havn't cleaned them up yet but still holding pressure for 3 years.

and yes the port can be used for a pressure sensor or you can place it closer to the firewall.

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Another avenue it to make your own hardline.
I ordered fittings online, some a/c tubing and aluminum soldering kit - flux and rod - and I used a map gas torch. I havn't cleaned them up yet but still holding pressure for 3 years.

and yes the port can be used for a pressure sensor or you can place it closer to the firewall.
Thanks, 68.
I do plan on forming the hard line from aluminum tubing I have here. I did the same for my own Charger...
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Where mine crosses over the core support then turns to the right, I want to aim Dwayne's down to bumper height and turn right from there. It will hide better that way.
 
Does anyone have a suggestion for a crimping tool? I may crimp these fittings...

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My only other attempt at crimping was with a borrowed tool. I want to buy one this time since I'll need to redo a couple of fittings on my own car, plus Jigsaw (My other Charger) will likely be getting a 5.7 Hemi swap and that will require some custom lines to fit that engine.
 
Does anyone have a suggestion for a crimping tool? I may crimp these fittings...

View attachment 1593316

My only other attempt at crimping was with a borrowed tool. I want to buy one this time since I'll need to redo a couple of fittings on my own car, plus Jigsaw (My other Charger) will likely be getting a 5.7 Hemi swap and that will require some custom lines to fit that engine.
I used this. I’ve read other forums and had seen several people had used and recommended them. Wasn’t for sure at first cause I’ve got bad hands but it worked great. They make one with a hand pump but it’s a little higher. REDLOONG hydraulic hose crimper... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09W9386Q7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
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I would find out what brand you of hoses and fittings you have and look for a vendor that will crimp them for you , make sure you clock your fittings then mark them . Call a few hydraulic shops and you may even be able to rent a air operated portable compressor with dies.
 
A respected forum member did suggest a hydraulic unit. That one above does seem great.
 
I use a portable a lot they are heavy and do a very good job, I’ve crimped 5k psi hydraulic hose and never lost one yet. Save some scraps to practice on,but get a few fittings to use with those scraps.
 
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I would find out what brand you of hoses and fittings you have and look for a vendor that will crimp them for you , make sure you clock your fittings then mark them . Call a few hydraulic shops and you may even be able to rent a air operated portable compressor with dies.
Two of the crimped lines may run through grommets in the firewall so I'll have to crimp the ends here since the lines wont get through the grommets with the fittings on them.

As far as paying someone else to crimp.....I don't mind spending the money for this tool. Dwayne isn't getting all this done for free....

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I like buying new tools.
 
Mike, your post put your words next to mine. I opened it and see what you wrote.
No, the drier/dryer... (Which spelling is correct?) ...has a cap on the right fitting as seen in the picture.

I'd sure rather put the switch near the firewall for simplicity.
The drier is after the condenser so you are dealing with a liquid which can't be compressed, therefore the pressure sensor will do its job anywhere in that line up to the expansion valve. Just add a tee.
Mike
 
Two of the crimped lines may run through grommets in the firewall so I'll have to crimp the ends here since the lines wont get through the grommets with the fittings on them.

As far as paying someone else to crimp.....I don't mind spending the money for this tool. Dwayne isn't getting all this done for free....

View attachment 1593348

I like buying new tools.
Grommets can be cut and reglued during installation in the hole. A little weatherstrip adhesive will do the trick.
Mike
 
Grommets can be cut and reglued during installation in the hole. A little weatherstrip adhesive will do the trick.
Mike
when I ran my analog fuel coolant temp gauge I had the same issue. I just did a radius cut all the way through the grommet on one edge to the center, fed the gauge line through and placed the grommet. I didn't seal the cut. It's pretty tight when in place and I don't foresee any moisture seeping through as it was a soft durometer rubber.

Greg, I'm fine if you do the same, just make sure the grommet is a med-soft durometer so it has a little give to it when put back in place. Makes for easier removal as well. I prefer no applied sealant on the grommet.
 
Just installed a Vintage air system in my 71 road runner. Hose routing options were frustrating as hell untill I found that new AC hoses are now available that reduce the outside diameter and allows for a smaller footprint. I recommend using the reduced barrier hose for the #10 and #8 lines. I routed the 2 compressor lines on top of the heater hose lines and went through fender. I didn't want to cut the firewall.

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Now I have a plumbing route to go by. I feel so much better when the unknowns are finally determined. I have a few days until the crimping tool arrives.
Looking at the wiring…

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This is one of my not so strong areas... Electrical matters. I’ve been able to make sense of Mopar wiring diagrams partly because they use the same color wiring for several models and years. Both my Chargers use orange wiring in the dash for the various lighting. Engine side, the violet is always for the water temp, off white for oil pressure, etc.
this harness…


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Looks easy enough. The heater control valve is directional, it has to be in one of the heater lines. The directions here and for my Classic Auto Air kit state to plumb one of the heater core hoses to the intake and the other to the water pump. With big blocks, both hose nipples are in the water pump housing. In my car, the valve is in the hose that sits closest to the pump itself.
I suppose I’ll do the same here.

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Lots of wires and connectors without a clearly stated suggestion about how to route them. One section regarding this circuit breaker…

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…..

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Second sentence, always mount circuit breaker as close to the battery as possible.
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Okay. Why did they put 7 feet of wire on the lead?

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