Vintage Air installation in a 1968 Satellite

[Kern Dog]

More stuff.

I like this control panel.

I like the knobs better than the slides that CAA provided for my car. Knobs are foolproof.
This one of mine…

The fore and aft slide just doesn’t immediately make sense. I’ve driven around wondering why the A/C isn’t blowing cold or the heater isn’t hot. Maybe I have a learning disability…

Back on point.
I do like the finish and function of this panel from Vintage but…

How and where is it mounted? It came with no face plate. It must be another matter of the installer must make it up on his own. The factory controls will obviously have to come out.

Leaving a hole that will require some type of cover.

 

[Kern Dog]

Somehow I have to make a mount for this. The instructions for this assumes the car has places on the dash to mount it.
B bodies don’t unless you want it somewhere silly like above the glove box door. I can make something out of textured plastic.

 

[Kern Dog]

In a few minutes I made this crude pattern.

Now bear with me… the design is caveman level and subject to extreme improvements…

The angle is way too steep pointing down but I tried to get the “ramp” even with the back edge.

The main base plate needs a hole for the wiring to pass through.

The control head is 2 3/8 tall so I have to make the face slightly bigger to allow it to fit.
Looking at the face, you’d think I could trim some to make it slimmer at the top and bottom but I can’t.

 

[blue69runner]

Putting classic air in my car found that placing the vents under dash does not give the flow of air to the cabin as I would like. Space between the radiator fan and the radiator has become a problem. As most of you have seen with my post on the destroyed radiator. Looking to move my vents to the dash so will have to cut my non-Ac dash up to install those vents. Good job you're doing and thanks for the post on installation.

 

[Kern Dog]

I’m not sure this panel will work in the stock location. Another simple cardboard pattern.

Now just a quickie hand held mock up…

This doesn’t look too bad but there needs to be a cover for the bottom which will hang even lower, plus the phone/camera was at shoulder height. A driver at 4’8” may have no problem reading the gauges but would be too short to see over the dash.

Dwayne is about my height…5’10” so the second picture is at eye level. Again, there will be more hanging down once a cover is installed on the bottom. This location looks to be a no-go.
Maybe it can go in place of the ash tray?

Dwayne quit smoking last week so this is a possibility.
(He did not smoke)

 

[Kern Dog]

The ‘68 models got that cool sliding ash tray too. It would suck to take that out.
In my Charger, I tried a two gauge pod in place of the ash tray.

It was crude and simple. I made it from ABS construction pipe and the textured plastic.

Dark interior, you can’t tell the imperfections.
I couldn’t anyway…
I used it for vacuum and A/F gauges.

I’m open to suggestions on how and where to mount this panel.
As an aside…
I am in no way greedy…
I have no idea of how much to charge for this work. I can’t imagine how much a real shop would charge. They’d be far more experienced so some things they’d just know and not struggle like I am. Still, with some of the unknowns and fabrication involved, I just don’t know. I was always terrible at estimating when I was a Carpenter. I almost always thought I’d be able to do something in 10 hours when often times it took 12 or more. Most car stuff I can get closer to doing it within my guesstimate. I’m really unsure here on this one.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Greg you're too fast haha - slow down. I have guidance on the control panel.
You're to leave the stock controls in place and don't touch them. I want them there for looks. The kit had the option of stock looking controls, but they're flimsy and don't last so I instead ordered the 3 round knob version you see here when my interior shop told me they are easier to calibrate and adjust the AC. You and I had talked about mounting this 3 knob control low under the dash near the driver, left of ash tray with a simple mounting plate. Don't get too crazy here. The radio delete plate with 2 holes is the one I had made to house the fuel and coolant temp gauges.

Carry on.

 

[Kern Dog]

I'll put the stock control panel back in. I suppose you don't need the cables on it anymore though, right?

This new panel will have to be in place somewhere in order to charge the system and test it.

 

[493 Mike]

I'll put the stock control panel back in. I suppose you don't need the cables on it anymore though, right?

This new panel will have to be in place somewhere in order to charge the system and test it.

Would a panel attached to the bottom edge of the dash be acceptable? Like adding a oil/temp combo. Save the cables with the OEM heater box. You are making good progress.
Mike

 

[Kern Dog]

I think that Dwayne may have mentioned that he did want to mount the control panel just above where his right leg rests. I must have forgotten.
Personally, I'd want it integrated in the dash somehow but since that isn't going to work, the under-dash mount wins by default. I'm generally not a fan of add on gauges but sometimes, that is the only place to put them.
The wire hookups and layout paths aren't as clearly explained as it was with the Classic Auto Air kit, this system leaves that and other things up to the installer. Each aspect of this project reminds me of the stark differences between the two companies. If I were a seasoned installer, I'd be used to this and probably have equal appreciation for both Vintage and Classic.

 

[70ChargerRT]

Putting classic air in my car found that placing the vents under dash does not give the flow of air to the cabin as I would like. Space between the radiator fan and the radiator has become a problem. As most of you have seen with my post on the destroyed radiator. Looking to move my vents to the dash so will have to cut my non-Ac dash up to install those vents. Good job you're doing and thanks for the post on installation.

You’ve got problems then. Maybe vent placement or a weak blower motor. I never liked the factory ac vents, especially the ones on the side because they were absolutely useless. I love the way the vents under the dash of my Vintage air spread the air out evenly through the cab and the blower is very powerful. One guy even commented on how he liked how my vents were lower, he replied, at least you won’t freeze your right hand and arm while holding on to your shifter going on long cruises like you do with the factory ac center vents made sense and he was right. Guess that probably doesn’t apply to auto cars.

 

[70ChargerRT]

Different strokes for different folks. Me personally I like the looks of the vintage air control panel for the satellite in the stock location a lot better than those knobs.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

You’ve got problems then. Maybe vent placement or a weak blower motor. I never liked the factory ac vents, especially the ones on the side because they were absolutely useless. I love the way the vents under the dash of my Vintage air spread the air out evenly through the cab and the blower is very powerful. One guy even commented on how he liked how my vents were lower, he replied, at least you won’t freeze your right hand and arm while holding on to your shifter going on long cruises like you do with the factory ac center vents made sense and he was right. Guess that probably doesn’t apply to auto cars.

View attachment 1594098

MY car was originally a non-AC car. However, when I had the interior done, I had the interior shop cut center and side vent mount holes in the factory location and install OEM factory vents. Greg can snap some photos and post here. The center vent is in the dash in center and not hanging down below. The side vents are nice condition originals I sourced off ebay. It looks sweet.

 

[70ChargerRT]

MY car was originally a non-AC car. However, when I had the interior done, I had the interior shop cut center and side vent mount holes in the factory location and install OEM factory vents. Greg can snap some photos and post here. The center vent is in the dash in center and not hanging down below. The side vents are nice condition originals I sourced off ebay. It looks sweet.

I do like the original look of the vents alot better. I’m still trying to buy that 69 Roadrunner (non-ac) car for my wife. I’m thinking about going full blown factory AC on it but don’t know if that can be accomplished without cutting up the firewall??? Was they able to cut the side vents with the dash in the car? I haven’t thought about it much until I can get the car bought.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

I do like the original look of the vents alot better. I’m still trying to buy that 69 Roadrunner (non-ac) car for my wife. I’m thinking about going full blown factory AC on it but don’t know if that can be accomplished without cutting up the firewall??? Was they able to cut the side vents with the dash in the car? I haven’t thought about it much until I can get the car bought.

No, they removed the dash. I provided bare dash photos of an A/C car and the phyical OEM center and side vent items from ebay. They used these to best approximate the cut locations and fitment.

 

[Kern Dog]

I got back to it yesterday after a few days away.
This panel is back in but without the cables attached.

Due to some creative rerouting, the "discharge" line will now be on the same side as my Classic Auto Air setup in my Charger:

This is because of the way the condenser is mounted. I ordered the line from CAA and it arrived Saturday. I'll need to call them again to order one of these #8 180 degree fittings:

Forget for a moment the way the compressor above is mounted, both mine and Dwayne's are now clocked 90 degrees CCW from here. The #8 line has to make a U-turn for the rubber line to fit and work.

The line is ran forward of the valve cover to leave room to remove it since I have a solid lifter cam and adjustable rocker arms.
I'll route Dwayne's line the same.

I'll need one of these #10 22 degree fittings for the suction side.

The routing of the lines has been a real brain twister. The engine bay isn't the hard part since there is plenty of room. I'm still struggling with what to do with the lines going into the inside of the car.

I thought I had it figured out with the placement of the 4 port manifold right here:

I have a variety of fittings to use on the wheel well side but here is the rub: The tire clearance dictates where I can mount the manifold. I'd love to put the manifold as close to the firewall as possible but that results in sharp bends for the hoses going through the firewall on the wheel side. Moving that manifold forward toward the UCA mount makes for easier hose bends but then puts it too close to the tire at right turns. I need to leave plenty of clearance for a few reasons. Dwayne may want to use wider or taller tires someday and I don't want to limit his options. Tires and steering flex a bit under stress. I don't want to be too close since I'm envisioning where he hits a pothole or something and the wheel and tire move outside their normal range and even momentarily brush the lines. If I can get adequate clearance in the wheelwell, this is a good option because it allows me to hide the heater control valve:

 

[Kern Dog]

The firewall mount that was proposed awhile back:

...Is the easiest for hose routing on the engine side. The only drawback is the cramped hose routing on the interior. I mentioned this before awhile back.
I want Dwayne to be happy with the job so I'm considering all options and presenting them to him to decide.
If this were my car, I'd be more comfortable with making a decision and just living with it.
I'd prefer to try going through the firewall and seeing if I can make it all work. I found a local store that actually stocks various fittings and is an authorized Vintage Air dealer.
There is more though....
I need to find a way to mount the high/low pressure switch. (which I don't have) The drawing shows it to be attached to the drier.

The drier in this car is on the drivers side and mounted up high.

To attach a switch, it has to fit behind the grille though the horizontal fitting hole means the switch will have to point straight forward. I'd expect this to be visible through the grille and look bad.

The CAA kit had the switch in the line that came off the firewall:

That is out of the way but still functional.
The saga continues without a clear path forward.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

I still prefer the 4 port manifold mounted where you show here so under the dash isn't crammed. I envision a future time that I'll need to change the heater core like I've done in the past or some other wiring and I don't want a hard to navigate situation in there when I'll already be irritated that I'm laying on my back in a twisted position trying to see under the dash. If you tuck the wheel well side lines in high and tight I think we'll be fine.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

And if I ever do change front tire sizes, they might get a little wider, but they won't get any taller than the current 215/70/15's. Wait, a little wider, but no taller - sounds like a joke in there somewhere...

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Even with the wheel well line routing, I like it better to locate that drier safety switch in the engine bay - your choice of best location.