747mopar
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I'm going to P.M USA and see if he'll post a pic of his Wilwood setup in his 1970 RR so we can all see it but it answers the question as to whether or not it will work.
Viper T56 install
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I'm going to P.M USA and see if he'll post a pic of his Wilwood setup in his 1970 RR so we can all see it but it answers the question as to whether or not it will work.
6speedGTX
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The pistol grip shifters with the correct 6 speed pattern can be found here:
http://www.proformancepowertrain.com/mopar/transmissions/shift_handle.html
On the Viper slave cylinder, I believe they are designed to have the bearing touching the clutch fingers at all times and be roughly in the middle of its travel. When reading about it in Moparstuarts thread, that's the impression that I got from it.
http://www.proformancepowertrain.com/mopar/transmissions/shift_handle.html
On the Viper slave cylinder, I believe they are designed to have the bearing touching the clutch fingers at all times and be roughly in the middle of its travel. When reading about it in Moparstuarts thread, that's the impression that I got from it.
747mopar
Well-Known Member
Here's a link to his Wilwood setup post 318.
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?36844-my-70-barn-find/page16
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?36844-my-70-barn-find/page16
HYRDGOON
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I've seen the one's on proformance powertrain but a little bit curious about them as their online store doesn't work and I sent them an inquiry email about their clutch package recommended by Benno and have never gotten a reply
6speedGTX
Well-Known Member
Good to know. I've never ordered anything from them, just stumbled across their website. Perhaps Benno has more insight.
747mopar
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As promised IT'S IN THERE LIKE SWIM WEAR, everything went really well tonight other than it being around zero degrees here and it taking a couple hours to get the garage warm enough to even touch anything metal (54 is the best we could do). It's official the pinch weld was (as warned) the biggest interference other than the cross member. I'm extremely happy with how little of the actual floor I chopped out, other than were the cross member is I was able to keep all of the cutting on the side of the hump instead of the floor. I test fitted the console and if I'm really careful with making the hump it should go in without much modifying (I think my homemade console might be tighter than the originals).
First pic is for Speedy so he can see what I did for offsetting the linkage mounting.
I went about 2" past the pinch weld on top and in the pics you can see where I still need to trim the sides more. I'll weld the seam solid where I remove spot welds and the new hump will obviously take care of the rest
The next 2 show why the little prongs were cut off.
This is where this thread already helped me, I still don't have a measurement to go off of as to where this tranny needs to sit but I remember someone mentioning the old 727 yoke would fit the T56. With that very valuable piece of info I remembered that my old shaft had that big funny looking donut on it that sat centered in the hump and within an inch from the floor. Believe it or not I was able to install my old shaft (even bolted to the rear yoke) and go off of it for a really close reference.
This pic shows where the cross member was cut (minimal).
And these show how much room the reverse lockout needs.
Please forgive some of the sloppy cuts, I'll be cleaning it up before the hump is installed. So far the plan is for a squared off hump to better fit the shape of the tranny and the cross member mod just got a little fancier with it intersecting the shifter location. I believe this is likely the reason for most using the forward shifter location but I want it right in my hand without some goofy long truck shifter.
First pic is for Speedy so he can see what I did for offsetting the linkage mounting.
I went about 2" past the pinch weld on top and in the pics you can see where I still need to trim the sides more. I'll weld the seam solid where I remove spot welds and the new hump will obviously take care of the rest
The next 2 show why the little prongs were cut off.
This is where this thread already helped me, I still don't have a measurement to go off of as to where this tranny needs to sit but I remember someone mentioning the old 727 yoke would fit the T56. With that very valuable piece of info I remembered that my old shaft had that big funny looking donut on it that sat centered in the hump and within an inch from the floor. Believe it or not I was able to install my old shaft (even bolted to the rear yoke) and go off of it for a really close reference.
This pic shows where the cross member was cut (minimal).
And these show how much room the reverse lockout needs.
Please forgive some of the sloppy cuts, I'll be cleaning it up before the hump is installed. So far the plan is for a squared off hump to better fit the shape of the tranny and the cross member mod just got a little fancier with it intersecting the shifter location. I believe this is likely the reason for most using the forward shifter location but I want it right in my hand without some goofy long truck shifter.
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I agree with you on the 747Mopar ( probably most will ) and that's ( probably ) what I'll be running into when I get my TR-6060 installed in my Belvedere Convertible too . . . But you got the talent to get it done and make it the way YOU want it . . . I'm watching to see what I might run into with my Challenger TR-6060 install . . .
( BTW - the tunnel hump that I cut out of the 2012 Challenger was square too - so that's probably a good choice )
Thanks for the update - looking GOOD ! !
carnalsupply
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Hey fellas,
Seems like my Wilwood post raised some questions, so before pix here are my thoughts:
The pedals are fine for street or race but you need to be able/prepared to deal with front/rear bias adjustments because these pedals have that adjustability built in.
If you have the room you can certainly mount the reservoirs inside but you need to make sue they are above the height of the calipers otherwise you'll get fluid weeping out of the lines, which then necessitates a one-way valve.
Floor mounted pedals are obviously unique in a classic Mopar but are still used widely throughout the car world (thik: Porsche).
Space for the master cylinders is a BIG issue in my car because of my engine set-back and custom floor/firewall setup. Would this be an issue in a car with a stock firewall and floor, I have no idea.
Here are some pix:
I have to jump on a flight: I'll get the other pix posted after land.
Seems like my Wilwood post raised some questions, so before pix here are my thoughts:
The pedals are fine for street or race but you need to be able/prepared to deal with front/rear bias adjustments because these pedals have that adjustability built in.
If you have the room you can certainly mount the reservoirs inside but you need to make sue they are above the height of the calipers otherwise you'll get fluid weeping out of the lines, which then necessitates a one-way valve.
Floor mounted pedals are obviously unique in a classic Mopar but are still used widely throughout the car world (thik: Porsche).
Space for the master cylinders is a BIG issue in my car because of my engine set-back and custom floor/firewall setup. Would this be an issue in a car with a stock firewall and floor, I have no idea.
Here are some pix:
I have to jump on a flight: I'll get the other pix posted after land.
747mopar
Well-Known Member
Thanks Kahn, that looks about like what I was planning. If you would I'd like to see how they sealed the shifter to the floor under the console on that (trying to get some ideas ahead of time).
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Thanks for posting Carnalsupply.
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Hmmmmmmmmmm, Alberta?
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Thanks Carnalsupply. That helps. This thread is great 747. You are helping a lot of folks by posting this and answering questions. I for one appreciate it very much. I was referring to the pedal setup that hangs down but has the reservoirs above the pedals, inside the car. Is this okay for street use, that's what I was asking.
Mr.SpeedFreak
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Damn that setup looks awesome! Looking forward to seeing what you do with master cylinder placement. And sorry to ghostrider for the confusion, I just meant more of a racecar look/feel when I said "fer racin" lol
For the sake of keeping all the info handy on this thread, here are the pictures of USA's setup. He mentioned building a custom dash for easy master cylinder access, but I need to pm him still to get the details on how it ended up
Definitely making time on that install Dev, looking great and some invaluable info being shared as always. What are you thinking as far as the crossmember goes?
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Great pics Mr Speedfreak. Those reservoirs are gonna need some room up there and now I see how it was accomplished. Sort of. I guess i'll just have to decide if that's the route i'll go and see what has to be done when I get under there. They are all different I guess.
HYRDGOON
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Those are the pics from USARR's build thread (the link 747 posted above) If you have any specific questions about that setup follow this link to his build thread and you can post up a question for him there or PM him. He's an AWESOME guy so he's sure to help out! http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparf...rn-find/page16
"I believe this is likely the reason for most using the forward shifter location but I want it right in my hand without some goofy long truck shifter."
That is exactly what I'm afraid of and why I think there's a good chance I'm gonna have to sit on the tranny (not literally... ok maybe I might) for a while before install... I'm thinking to make this as I want it I'm going to ahve to go to buckets and come up with some sort of solution for a console to put the shifter right there fer racin'
Mr.SpeedFreak
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Yep and I PM'd him a little while ago too, with some questions on his setup as far as MC accessibility, any complaints he might have, etc. Looks like the mounting brackets would be a breeze to zap together at least.
And that is a concern of mine as well. No offense to anyone but it's one of the things I kinda dislike about 833 factory setups, I'd rather have a bit of a shorter shifter handle itself along with a shorter throw, "read: sports car"
747mopar
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Funny you should ask about the cross member Speedy, I spent an hour or so contemplating that today and have my solution. Here's the 2 patterns, one is for tracing out the shape and the other has the proper bend.
You can see here that if the new brace is put tight (not tight in the pic) against the rear side of the cross member it would cover the shifter location and require allot of clearance to get past the reverse lockout.
In this pic you can see what I'm thinking, make 2 identical pieces that are tipped forward to clear everything then plate them top and bottom making an 1 1/2" X 2" X 3/16" thick box. Look at both pics, one shows it at the front of the cross member opening and the other at the back and now just picture it all boxed in and you got the idea.
Here's the view of the inside.
I'll also make the transmission mount a structural part of the unit as well but it's going to be stronger than it was. These pics make my brace look huge for some reason but I tried the center console again with the pattern in place and it's still fitting (Please keep in mind my console is homemade).
You can see here that if the new brace is put tight (not tight in the pic) against the rear side of the cross member it would cover the shifter location and require allot of clearance to get past the reverse lockout.
In this pic you can see what I'm thinking, make 2 identical pieces that are tipped forward to clear everything then plate them top and bottom making an 1 1/2" X 2" X 3/16" thick box. Look at both pics, one shows it at the front of the cross member opening and the other at the back and now just picture it all boxed in and you got the idea.
Here's the view of the inside.
I'll also make the transmission mount a structural part of the unit as well but it's going to be stronger than it was. These pics make my brace look huge for some reason but I tried the center console again with the pattern in place and it's still fitting (Please keep in mind my console is homemade).
747mopar
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Let me know what you think of this so I know whether or not to make 2? I'm pretty confident that this location will still clear your bench seat especially with your height. The forward location is partially under the dash close to where the factory one would be.
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Appreciate it Wookie!
HYRDGOON
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Just spent a few minutes getting my head around it and as always great ingenuity looks like a great idea! My bench is definitely all the way back so I agree clearance should be fine but like I said I think I'm starting to get my head further and further around buckets and a console. I'm gonna go see Greg tomorrow and bounce ideas off him but this looks great to me so if you don't mind making 2 it would be a big help (as always!)
747mopar
Well-Known Member
No problem.
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Next weekend the goal will be to get the brace in, make a transmission mount and hopefully start toying with forming the hump. The only thing that stinks is that I might be pulling the motor for a cam swap (maybe) which will slow the process down a bit. On the plus side it will make it allot easier to check all of the clearances not to mention touching up the underside of the car.
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