Viper T56 install

[Malicious]

A quick thought on the cross member, make the trany form part of the chassis, like a motorbike does with it's frame to engine. you could cut two plates, front and back, then box them for stiffness.

Looks like you could mount it to at least two ears on the side of the tranny. OR you could swap the back plate with mounting ears, then run the bolt through into the tranny with a solid nylon style isolator, like a semi-solid engine mount.

 

[Mr.SpeedFreak]

Wow, great ideas being brought up here! I love this thread haha. Either way would work I would think, but if Dev's crossmember clears everything ok and isn't too big of an intrusion, I would probably lean towards the "you can never have too much chassis reinforcement" direction. I assumed I'd have to build a custom console for this swap as well, good thing I have a mountain of carbon fiber lol

Also looks like I have $600 in parts sold already, T56 here I come :banana:

 

[usaroadrunner]

my wilwood pedals i bought used out of a racecar and had to have a custom bracket built and welded to the firewall and pedals bolted up to brackets. here is how we did my crossmember on top not a very good pic. the floor he cut out in one piece and added in about 2 inches an welded the stock hump back on. turned out pretty good. this thread is awesome gonna help out alot. if you guys have any questions i will try to help you out. im no expert just trying to build me a hotrod....FER RACIN lmao

 

[HYRDGOON]

K so I went to meet with Greg at Driven Performance this morning who will be taking care of my swap and did some decision making together. I sent him this link over the weekend and he was pleased with what he saw. (told me to pass on compliments to your work, choices and fabricating skills Dev.)

SO:

Keeping the bench seat and will be using the forward shifter location. Clearance issues for shifter throw are lessened by the short throw of the shifter and we'll be custom making a shifter/handle once everything is in to put the handle exactly where I want it (came up with a few ideas on the spot regarding the shifter and got me pretty excited about that... it will be done by the same guy that did the one in the 56 Hauler) Keeping the bench sort of stays with that nostalgic feel the car has now and once discussed and realized I'd be happy with the shifter I'm cool with it

Definitely going to stay with my mechancial sweep guage. Greg thinks there may be an option looking for alternate tail stocks that would be a cheaper alternative to the electronic to mechanical conversion box... need to do some homework with Tremec to see

Going to make a new driveshaft rather than cutting mine for the simple reason would be nice to sell mine whole to whoever would buy my A833 for the swap so they have everything.

Try to get my A833 sold sooner than later to free up funds for the swap. I should be able to sell absolutely everything necessary for a 4 spd conversion to someone with the exception of my pedal assembly

Going to wait to see how 747 feels with that large bore Master Cylinder before buying the same or possibly going smaller bore. also keeping in mind my pedal should be lighter with the twin disc

 

[Wookie316]

23 or 18 spline 833?

 

[HYRDGOON]

23 or 18 spline 833?

23

 

[Wookie316]

If it was 18 I'd be interested. Oh well.

 

[HYRDGOON]

If it was 18 I'd be interested. Oh well.

No worries I know the 18's are more sought after. If it's a matter of what engine you're bolting up to it mine's pretty stout and I had no concerns

 

[747mopar]

View attachment 232516

A quick thought on the cross member, make the trany form part of the chassis, like a motorbike does with it's frame to engine. you could cut two plates, front and back, then box them for stiffness.

Looks like you could mount it to at least two ears on the side of the tranny. OR you could swap the back plate with mounting ears, then run the bolt through into the tranny with a solid nylon style isolator, like a semi-solid engine mount.

Thanks for the suggestion, I know what your referring to with the motorcycle frame seeing how I've had one. My fear would be that #1 The tranny isn't designed to be stressed in that way whereas the motorcycle motor is designed for that, #2 Since removing the tranny starts with tilting it back I think that would make it nearly impossible to remove it by itself, #3 With the amount of movement I have at the motor that would become the anchor point for the motor meaning all of the torsional stress would be put back on the tranny and of coarse that means more vibrations transferred to the car as well. If it were a race car with solid motor mounts then this would be more feasible. Thanks again Malicious

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Wow, great ideas being brought up here! I love this thread haha. Either way would work I would think, but if Dev's crossmember clears everything ok and isn't too big of an intrusion, I would probably lean towards the "you can never have too much chassis reinforcement" direction. I assumed I'd have to build a custom console for this swap as well, good thing I have a mountain of carbon fiber lol

Also looks like I have $600 in parts sold already, T56 here I come :banana:

My console is pretty tight and just from eyeballing it the brace looks to be fairly close to where the tunnel was. Next time I'm at the garage I should be able to compare it to the cross member I pulled out. You will not have to build a custom console for this swap, I mentioned somewhere in this thread that I ran into a guy with a 69 Charger running the factory console with the shifter coming threw the factory hole and you couldn't tell there was a T56 in it. It would just be a matter of figuring out how he did it which I'm sure you could. I'll try to lay a straight edge over it and get some measurements so you can compare plus I'll get the width. Glad to see your fund raiser is taking off haha.

- - - Updated - - -

K so I went to meet with Greg at Driven Performance this morning who will be taking care of my swap and did some decision making together. I sent him this link over the weekend and he was pleased with what he saw. (told me to pass on compliments to your work, choices and fabricating skills Dev.)

SO:

Keeping the bench seat and will be using the forward shifter location. Clearance issues for shifter throw are lessened by the short throw of the shifter and we'll be custom making a shifter/handle once everything is in to put the handle exactly where I want it (came up with a few ideas on the spot regarding the shifter and got me pretty excited about that... it will be done by the same guy that did the one in the 56 Hauler) Keeping the bench sort of stays with that nostalgic feel the car has now and once discussed and realized I'd be happy with the shifter I'm cool with it

Definitely going to stay with my mechancial sweep guage. Greg thinks there may be an option looking for alternate tail stocks that would be a cheaper alternative to the electronic to mechanical conversion box... need to do some homework with Tremec to see

Going to make a new driveshaft rather than cutting mine for the simple reason would be nice to sell mine whole to whoever would buy my A833 for the swap so they have everything.

Try to get my A833 sold sooner than later to free up funds for the swap. I should be able to sell absolutely everything necessary for a 4 spd conversion to someone with the exception of my pedal assembly

Going to wait to see how 747 feels with that large bore Master Cylinder before buying the same or possibly going smaller bore. also keeping in mind my pedal should be lighter with the twin disc

Glad to hear I got his stamp of approval haha, sounds like you guys worked out some concerns and got the blood pumping? I can easily provide exactly where both shifter location are for you (from the firewall back), I haven't burned out all of brackets yet but if you go with the front location I'll leave yours 1/4" shorter (that's how much I added to make up for the bend to clear the shifter). Sounds like your in good hands.

 

[HYRDGOON]

Glad to hear I got his stamp of approval haha, sounds like you guys worked out some concerns and got the blood pumping? I can easily provide exactly where both shifter location are for you (from the firewall back), I haven't burned out all of brackets yet but if you go with the front location I'll leave yours 1/4" shorter (that's how much I added to make up for the bend to clear the shifter). Sounds like your in good hands.

He'll be following the thread to get some early answers to questions before we start so I can definitely use as much information as possible. I'm not sure if you remember from my build thread too last year that we couldn't get a good alignment on my car since there was front end damage at some point and need to get the frame pulled (should just need a little tweak... not worried about gaps) SO this is something else that came up that I better get done prior to welding in a new cross member. I'll say it definitely did get the blood pumping with what I learned today the swap will likely happen sooner than I expected!

He was mentioning the Tremec TRANZILLA T56 which he has used in some projects before where he seemed to recall there's a take off for mechanical speedo as well as electrical... Like I said I'll be looking into this which may provide answers for anyone else doing the swap.

 

[HYRDGOON]

Weekends Here! I'm tuning into my favorite channel for updates! :blob1:

 

[747mopar]

Weekends Here! I'm tuning into my favorite channel for updates! :blob1:

Haha, I'll be headed to the garage for my weekly head scratching in a few :icon_scratch:. It's 36 degrees today so warming the garage up won't be near the trouble it was last week meaning more work an less standing by the fire. I forgot to get the steel for the tranny bracket so I guess I'll just be dealing with the cross member tonight and picking up steel tomorrow. I'll get you a bunch of measurements to go off of so you'll have a better idea of where the shifter will be.

 

[HYRDGOON]

Going by Fahrenheit it's about 14 degrees here right now. Supposed to warm up over the weekend and maybe his about 30 at the peak and dipping really low overnight.

Definitely appreciate the measurements as long as you're not taking time away from something else! Sounds like you've got enough work with the bracket to keep you occupied!

 

[Mr.SpeedFreak]

Weekends Here! I'm tuning into my favorite channel for updates! :blob1:

x2! :sixpack: This is way better than anything on TV haha

And it looks like I'm knocking on the door of my 6 Speed Frankenstein Fund goal, might be joining the fun pretty soon here!

Guess I might as well add the latest on my man pedal quest for those interested, didn't take into account the Wilwood setup would be converting me to manual brakes, but as stated everywhere I've read online, the proper master cylinder bore will put you almost back to the same pedal power as before, with more feedback through the pedal obviously. My buddy Mike from Muscle Car Alley had the same Wilwood setup on a blown Willies and liked it, and I like the idea of having more room in the engine bay (specifically for Procharger intake routing and coilpacks that will end up on the valve covers), and it will save me figuring out the vacuum situation once I'm running "tha blowa!" So looks like manual wilwood setup it is. And although it's a hair off topic, if Dev's cool with it I'll report back on the brake MC size recommendation I end up with from the G-machine-rs over on the pro touring forum, for anyone like me that might end up going the same route. Now to decide between those fer' racin' floor-mounts or a standard forward hanging setup.. :thinker:


Man, all the way up to 30? That's like a weekend in the Bahamas for you northerners isn't it?

 

[Brandy]

Please let us know about the braking situation, i'm following with great interest of the "fer street" type.

 

[747mopar]

x2! :sixpack: This is way better than anything on TV haha

And it looks like I'm knocking on the door of my 6 Speed Frankenstein Fund goal, might be joining the fun pretty soon here!

Guess I might as well add the latest on my man pedal quest for those interested, didn't take into account the Wilwood setup would be converting me to manual brakes, but as stated everywhere I've read online, the proper master cylinder bore will put you almost back to the same pedal power as before, with more feedback through the pedal obviously. My buddy Mike from Muscle Car Alley had the same Wilwood setup on a blown Willies and liked it, and I like the idea of having more room in the engine bay (specifically for Procharger intake routing and coilpacks that will end up on the valve covers), and it will save me figuring out the vacuum situation once I'm running "tha blowa!" So looks like manual wilwood setup it is. And although it's a hair off topic, if Dev's cool with it I'll report back on the brake MC size recommendation I end up with from the G-machine-rs over on the pro touring forum, for anyone like me that might end up going the same route. Now to decide between those fer' racin' floor-mounts or a standard forward hanging setup.. :thinker:


Man, all the way up to 30? That's like a weekend in the Bahamas for you northerners isn't it?

By all means post away!

- - - Updated - - -

Just for you Goon this will give you a quick easy way to locate the shifter locations. Looking for an easy reference point that you could get to I stretched tape from door jam to door jam. You can see the front of the forward most location is about dead even with the door opening and in the other pic I'm holding the tape on the masking tape showing where the rear most location is.

 

[747mopar]

Here's what I got done. Started off with the plates (torched out old school haha),I put them down in the cross member and cut 2 - 1 1/2" wide pieces of steel to fill the void making a tight fit.



With the gap set it was on to welding up the outside box them more test fitting, grinding and then fully boxed.









I'm pretty happy with the transition, I think once it's welded in the seam should nearly disappear.



















- - - Updated - - -

I would have welded it in but with all of that insulation I thought I better clean that up and wait until I'll be in the garage for a longer period of time (I did buy a fire extinguisher though). All in all I'm pretty happy with the way it came out even if you'll never see it I'll still know that it's the strongest part of the unibody now haha.

 

[6speedGTX]

That crossmember looks really good, I don't think there'll be any strength issues there! I admire how fast you are getting this swap done, you'll be rowin' your own in no time!

 

[HYRDGOON]

By all means post away!

- - - Updated - - -

Just for you Goon this will give you a quick easy way to locate the shifter locations. Looking for an easy reference point that you could get to I stretched tape from door jam to door jam. You can see the front of the forward most location is about dead even with the door opening and in the other pic I'm holding the tape on the masking tape showing where the rear most location is.

Thanks Devin! That's a big help for sure! So using the front location just slightly forward from where it is now but with less of a throw so less risk of interference... hmmmmm... When it's warm enough i'll run the same masking tape on mine and see exactly where it is in relation and post pics in hopes it may help someone else using this thread down the road

That crossmember looks really good, I don't think there'll be any strength issues there! I admire how fast you are getting this swap done, you'll be rowin' your own in no time!

X2 on what 6speed says! The piece looks awesome and definitely rigid!! and it's crazy how quick you're moving through this!



P.S. hope it's warmer there!

 

[747mopar]

I'm glad you guys think I'm moving fast! I wish I had more than just weekend nights to get this done but it should still get done within a few more weeks (crossing my fingers). I've got a few more things on the list before winters over so I can't goof around to much. If I do the cam swap I have to take the inner spring out for break in and really don't feel like doing that in the car so I'll be building an engine run stand so I can break my motors in on the stand then it's more body work erhhhh (got a few chips and a mishap bothering me).