747mopar
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Nice to see some of your work, always chatting on here but rarely see that bird! Looks great.
What did you do to your Mopar today?
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Cornpatch MO
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64 Dodge-new build --working out the bugs. Gas gauge not working , sender not grounded, still didn't work. Sender does have voltage thru it according to Ohmeter. No voltage thru pin connector on back of speedo, has new solid state V reg. Pulled the instrument panel out the front after dropping steering colunm. Found that the new speedo cable was not connected to the speedo head correctly This was after checking the speedo drive and not finding anything wrong. What a PITA trying to get that cable screwed on correctly to back of speedo. All by feel as it is out of sight. Also found that some pin connectors were broken off the printed circuit. Next is to get an excellent pro mechanic to find where my oil burning is coming from. I think it is valve guides. Also using oil dye to find out where my oil leak(s) are coming from. My wifey thinks the car is jinxed ! .................................MO
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YY1
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Put it up on stands and removed the wheels in prep for new brake components and DOT 5.
Found a tire with separated tread. Man they don't last long in storage here in FL.
Hard to get anything done in 105+ heat with 95+ humidity.
I've embraced a 1.5 hour or one project step goal per trip to the shop schedule.
I'll take any progress.
Found a tire with separated tread. Man they don't last long in storage here in FL.
Hard to get anything done in 105+ heat with 95+ humidity.
I've embraced a 1.5 hour or one project step goal per trip to the shop schedule.
I'll take any progress.
Cornpatch MO
Well-Known Member
Even a fan does not help much, as that makes only a hot wind. I have an all metal un-insulated shop, so when it is above 95 degree - I am in the house ! .........MO
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I haven't been doing much of late, finally things settled down...
Fingers & toes crossed...
Thanks for the compliment too...
It's far from a show car, never will be & is still a work in progress...
Too many irons in the fire, unfortunately, helping elderly relatives,
family functions, house maintenance issues taking my $$$, projects etc.,
you know regular life gets in the way...
Either have a ton of time & no money {or help} or a bit of money & no time...
Never both...LOL
I have a ton of parts still to install, may even get around to it
this summer & fall...
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Cornpatch MO
Well-Known Member
I took the printed circuit from my parts car. some pins were a little loose , and I was able to peen them a little tighter. This should solve my gas gauge problem. Got the panel lights working better. Now to put it on my nice instrument panel and reinstall. DID YOU KNOW ??--dielectric grease is not a conductor of electricity, it is just the opposite as an insulator. It does seal out corrosion. For plug wire boots, apply it only to the inside of the boots where it comes in contact with the ceramic on the plugs. Do not get it on the metal parts. Maybe not the best thing to put on the firewall pins and socket connectors. My research says to use a "never seize" product to lubricate and conduct electricity . It is made of microscopic metal particles that electricity will pass thru. News to me !
On the speedometer, I could not find anything wrong except possibly the inner cable was not in the square hole properly. Put the speedo drive back in the 4 speed and the gear just spun!!. Took out and checked the worm gear on the output shaft and it is OK. WTF?? I was pissed and ready to quit. Thought struck me . I had marked the drive to make sure it would be clocked right when re- installed. According to info from the internet , I had the right drive for my 32 tooth gear. . Since I had never used this tranny, maybe someone had installed the drive wrongly. I looked at the drive closer and discovered that it could be installed in different positions. BINGO ! I tried different positions and found the one that engages the gears and has the right amount of play.
Headliner tomorrow? ...........................MO
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Mo, I wouldn't use any lube with metal particles in it for connections. Can you imagine the arcing that would take place. I'd stick with the dielectric grease to help seal out moisture. I've thought of useing the red battery terminal grease but haven't yet. Comes in a spray can too. One day I'll experiment with it...
Cornpatch MO
Well-Known Member
dielectric grease will work, if the connections are tight enough to make good contact. As for arcing, with the anti sieze, I suppose it could if it was slopped on a whole bunch. Those pin connectors on the printed circuit -back of speedo can be a real PITA to unplug the wiring socket. and the pins are delicate . I broke three out of eight. Needs some kind of lube. I think I will try a thin coat of anti sieze on each pin . The battery terminal grease was mentioned in my research, but I don't remember what was said...........................................MO
Cornpatch MO
Well-Known Member
Got the headliner and garnish trim installed today . Made new patterns for interior door panels, package tray and rear seat- trunk divider. I watched a professional do it. Can you believe the upholstery guy came to my garage to do the work? Love living in small town Iowa.................................MO
Replaced the rear springs today. The old ones were pretty weak. She now sits up high enough, that I can get a jack under the axle and pick the car up. I was going to put the 8 3/4 in, but our daughter's car needs work, and i didn't want to take a chance, as I have to get the drive shaft shortened. Who knows how long that will take. Anyway, the bigger tires should look pretty good on her, when I do get the axle in. Still don't have the front steel wheels in yet, from Classic Industries. I really want their rim, as the come powder coated. The other two suppliers don't. It's been three months that they have been on back order. I'll give them till August, before I cancel the order. Then go with one of the other suppliers. Below is the company I bought the springs off. The experience I had with them was very professional and I'm pleased with the springs. http://www.generalspringkc.com/
Cornpatch MO
Well-Known Member
Installed the circuit board from my parts car onto my instrument cluster. Tried to bench test it, but could not get gauges to work right, All the dash lights work now. Got P.O,ed and just put it back in the dash . Just a bit of never sieze on the socket pins for lubrication. Everything works now YYEESSSS! Finished hooking up the speedometer and the odometer works OK, but the speedo needle jumps around a lot. It has a new cable.
Tomorrow we try to trace down some oil leaks with dye, and figger out just what is making oil burn upon spirited acceleration..........MO
Tomorrow we try to trace down some oil leaks with dye, and figger out just what is making oil burn upon spirited acceleration..........MO
Darthomas
Well-Known Member
Drove it a job interview.
Got the job.
Supervisor has a stock '38 Chevy.
Got the job.
Supervisor has a stock '38 Chevy.
Cornpatch MO
Well-Known Member
Took the Dodge to a very good mechanic here. He took it for a test drive and said he didn't believe my blue smoke was coming from the tailpipes. The leak test dye showed I had a valve cover leaking badly , and rear main seal leaking too. He says that the oil is getting on the exhaust pipe ( which it is, and is baked on ) and on the front of the mufflers. When I accelerate hard, the exhaust pipes get real hot, real fast, and burns the oil , and the smoke is actually coming from under the car rather than the tail-pipes. I sure hope he is right. We will know, early next week. ......................MO
Darthomas
Well-Known Member
Put helper lift leafs above the NEW high performance leaf springs.
One of the last things I did for the car before it sat for the last 5 years in the garage was to have new leaf springs put on, as I had cracked one leaf.
Drove it a few months carefully with helper springs to keep it from flying apart.
I ordered some very stiff springs advertised as making the car sit 1 inch lower than stock, but it looked more like 3 inches.
Tailpipes prone to scrape at the tips, and some wheel rubbing.
They helped raise it a little bit, and it sure is stiff now.
How much does re-arching cost these days?
One of the last things I did for the car before it sat for the last 5 years in the garage was to have new leaf springs put on, as I had cracked one leaf.
Drove it a few months carefully with helper springs to keep it from flying apart.
I ordered some very stiff springs advertised as making the car sit 1 inch lower than stock, but it looked more like 3 inches.
Tailpipes prone to scrape at the tips, and some wheel rubbing.
They helped raise it a little bit, and it sure is stiff now.
How much does re-arching cost these days?
747mopar
Well-Known Member
NOTHING, I did however order a new (rebuild) power steering gearbox. I rebuilt the one that's in it 3 years ago but lost power assist in one direction
. Fortunately I had a spare for the core so I can pull this one apart and see where I screwed up??
. Fortunately I had a spare for the core so I can pull this one apart and see where I screwed up??
Darthomas
Well-Known Member
747Mopar,
The shuttle valve in the removable valve body is somehow not moving in the other direction when the reaction lever is pushing it. Read the service manual fully about how to work on this, and be VERY careful, if you don't have body set correctly front-to back, the steering wheel WILL slam to one end of travel or the other, in a most disturbing and memorable way.
Ask how I know.
The shuttle valve in the removable valve body is somehow not moving in the other direction when the reaction lever is pushing it. Read the service manual fully about how to work on this, and be VERY careful, if you don't have body set correctly front-to back, the steering wheel WILL slam to one end of travel or the other, in a most disturbing and memorable way.
Ask how I know.
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