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What did you do to your Mopar today?

Cleaned up my AOR and studied the rear frame rails in prep for welding in the leaf relocation mounts. Glad to be back in the garage and working on the Express!
 
Covered the heck out of it with moving blankets.....getting a new roof on the house and I predict quite a mess in the garage. ...she can come back out on Sunday.

Jeff
 
Finished replacing the booster and MC. Had to adjust the stop light switch. Bench bled the MC, but it felt a little spongy still for the first short trip. Got back in a few minutes later and the pressure seemed to equalize in the booster and has seemed fine since. Got stopped by a couple of people wanting to talk cars...which is fine with me. :thumbsup:

BoosterMC1.jpeg
 
Thanks to MrJLR, I went to look at a notch back Barracuda for sale. But, since I now have 3 kids in college, it is just a daydream at this time.
 
Had a loose left hand thread wheel lug bolt tack welded to the hub on the roadside.
Virtually the spot in Wayne's World where the runway crosses Irving Park Road.
Flat tire, couldn't change for spinning stud. Off to work now, I don't get to work on no stinkin' tow hook.
Sorry no pics.
 
Sunday, lashed valves tighter to quiet it down a bit. Then I yanked out the 4.57 suregrip and stabbed in the "new" 3.23 sg and discovered my axles wouldn't go in.

Monday, after work back on the ground and yanked the 3.23's out again. Long story short, whoever "rebuilt" my suregrip installed the wrong thrust buttons. Cut and ground one button down to the right size and reinstalled them with a roll pin.

Tuesday, scrambled under the car and put the diff in AGAIN. This time everything fit like it was supposed to... except the u-joint on the driveshaft. Luckily I had a spare that was the right size in my tool box. Half hour later I did a test run to town and back.

Today I drove the car to work, everything worked well and it didn't overheat. It's a good day.
 
First of all, I would like to give :thumbsup: to all of you guys that do all or most of the work on your cars yourself! About all I can take credit for is driving 30 miles to go pick my car up from a friend (that does OUTSTANDING work) who has done the following work on my 69 Coronet 4 door:

Front Suspension and Steering:
Replace Inner, Outer Tie Rods and sleeves. Remove and replace upper control arm bushings. Remove and replace lower control arm bushings. Remove and replace upper and lower ball joints. Remove and replace upper and lower control arm limiting bumpers. Remove and replace strut bars and bushings. Remove and replace torsion bars and seals. Degreasing of all hardware and parts. Bleed and adjust front drums. Set front end height at 26” to wheel well opening ( approximately 1 inch lower that previous ). Grease all fittings. Pre alignment adjustment of TOE and steering wheel.

Rear Suspension:
Remove and replace real leaf springs. Remove and place bushings, spring shackles. Replace axle U-bolts.

Sway Bar:
Drill mounting holes in K-frame. Install K-member mounts and lower control arm mounts. Install sway bar with bushings ( greased with lubricant to avoid squeaks) . Lower car and tighten all connections with loaded suspension per instruction manual.

Transmission mount and O-ring leak:
Remove exhaust to access transmission cross member. Support tranny while removing cross member and mount. Degrease transmission housing, speedometer, mount and bolts. Remove and replace tranny mount. Tighten pan. Remove and replace speedometer gear seal. Drain and fill transmission.

Instrument Lights:
Trace short to dash lights. Diagnose faulty dimmer switch. Remove and replace dimmer switch after reworking and bench testing unit. Removal and replacement of instrument panel. Replacement of all instrument panel bulbs with new parts. Re lettering dash controls. Replacement of all fuses with correct amp rating fuses. Replace dome light bulb and ash tray bulb.

Carburetor Rebuild and Calibration:
Remove and replace carburetor. Rebuild and adjust all settings per factory manual: float level, accelerator pump and fast idle. Adjust timing and idle mixture by rpm and vacuum gauge method.

Driver door hinge:
Support door with padded door installer. Remove and replace interior panels and padding. Remove and replace hinge. Drill hinges to .38. Install brass bushings and pin. Adjust door.
 
Bart K said:
First of all, I would like to give :thumbsup: to all of you guys that do all or most of the work on your cars yourself! About all I can take credit for is driving 30 miles to go pick my car up from a friend (that does OUTSTANDING work) who has done the following work on my 69 Coronet 4 door:

Front Suspension and Steering:
Replace Inner, Outer Tie Rods and sleeves. Remove and replace upper control arm bushings. Remove and replace lower control arm bushings. Remove and replace upper and lower ball joints. Remove and replace upper and lower control arm limiting bumpers. Remove and replace strut bars and bushings. Remove and replace torsion bars and seals. Degreasing of all hardware and parts. Bleed and adjust front drums. Set front end height at 26” to wheel well opening ( approximately 1 inch lower that previous ). Grease all fittings. Pre alignment adjustment of TOE and steering wheel.

Rear Suspension:
Remove and replace real leaf springs. Remove and place bushings, spring shackles. Replace axle U-bolts.

Sway Bar:
Drill mounting holes in K-frame. Install K-member mounts and lower control arm mounts. Install sway bar with bushings ( greased with lubricant to avoid squeaks) . Lower car and tighten all connections with loaded suspension per instruction manual.

Transmission mount and O-ring leak:
Remove exhaust to access transmission cross member. Support tranny while removing cross member and mount. Degrease transmission housing, speedometer, mount and bolts. Remove and replace tranny mount. Tighten pan. Remove and replace speedometer gear seal. Drain and fill transmission.

Instrument Lights:
Trace short to dash lights. Diagnose faulty dimmer switch. Remove and replace dimmer switch after reworking and bench testing unit. Removal and replacement of instrument panel. Replacement of all instrument panel bulbs with new parts. Re lettering dash controls. Replacement of all fuses with correct amp rating fuses. Replace dome light bulb and ash tray bulb.

Carburetor Rebuild and Calibration:
Remove and replace carburetor. Rebuild and adjust all settings per factory manual: float level, accelerator pump and fast idle. Adjust timing and idle mixture by rpm and vacuum gauge method.

Driver door hinge:
Support door with padded door installer. Remove and replace interior panels and padding. Remove and replace hinge. Drill hinges to .38. Install brass bushings and pin. Adjust door.
Click to expand...

That's all?
 
Last edited:
Still working on the suspension and disk brake install. I'm a bit embarrassed at how slow I am these days. I started on Monday, took the day off Tuesday, and still need to put the calipers on, and the brake booster. I bought a Pirate Jack set up. I'm a bit disappointed in the kit, as I had to dress the bearing bosses, on the spindles down a couple thousands, so the wheel bearings would fit. This was per the instruction sheet. One of the bearing cages had a little rust on it, as did one of the rotors. I bought rear brake shoes a couple of months ago, from my local NAPA. They turned out to be the wrong ones. None were available locally, so they found a set in Va. This was Tuesday. UPS said they would arrive buy today. But still no shoes. And I did buy a set of tires. I don't have the specs with me now. But I bought 60's for the rear and 70's for the front. both are the same diameter. I tried the rears, and I like the look. I'll get the fronts on, after I bolt the calipers on. Pictures forth coming.
 
Auggie, it took me a few weekends to paint and install my front suspension and disc brake parts. So, don't feel bad. Perfection takes time, ya know.
 
I'm about to start my disc conversion this weekend.
 
I like the steelie with rallye center.

The look works for that car.

Even the lighter color.

Makes a unique statement.
 
Tried to run test and tune at Muncie yesterday. Ran home after work and got the car out. My brother tigged in an O2 sensor bung while I scrambled to prep the car and gather tools. We were on the road in a half hour. He wired the sensor and display into my fuse block while I drove. On the way to the track we did some "testing" and found out some things:

Normal cruise was about perfect, a tad richer than stoichiometric, but light acceleration (on the rear carb only) went scary lean. Wide open blasts with both carbs contributing was so rich it was probably outside the sensor's range.

We made it to the strip only to find they were closed because of the rain from the day before, dang it. Since there was nothing else to do, we continued onward to Muncie and ate at Scotty's brewhouse.

The trip home went flawless. Even with all "testing" shenanigans and screwing around in Muncie's traffic, the car managed to get 12mpg! 528 cubes, dual quads, and 3.23's I was expecting like 7-9 at best!
 
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