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What did you do to your Mopar today?

Got the expanding foam for the hood frame to skin. Got the DD steering shaft and swivel joint. Also 1/8th fine line paint layout tape. Collecting parts and supplies.....
 
Hooked up new battery in 65 Dodge. After screwing up the Holley carbs and going back over them, much better. Warmed it up adjusted carbs nice and crisp now.
 
Got my casters today.

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contemplated the upcoming thrash on steering and brakes. Have all the steering parts on hand now.
 
Working on the passenger door still . . . not going to wait on my friend to make the "super cool" shaved door handle ( taking way to long ) so the shaved look will be the decision . . .

Welded up the hole, and started working on the body filler . . .

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Couple rounds of put it on, sand most of it off, add some more, then sand most of it off . . .

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Then get it close and shoot it with epoxy primer . . . need it on the car to blend it with the rear quarter and front fender . . .

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Not too bad for a newbie on bodywork . . .

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Need it on the car to work on the bodywork . . . so that is what I fought with this morning . . .

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Here's the look of the passenger door - shaved handles - which will match the rest of the clean, smooth look of the Mad Scientist build . . .

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And hanging this door is such a pain . . . and aligning the thing is a royal pain . . . DANG ! ! !
 
Cleaned up the parking brake cables with a red scotch-brite pad & steel wool. Painted the backing plate retainer ends red as original. The original backing plate grommets were still good & re used...Jim

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Did this stuff a couple of weeks ago to get the car ready for last weeks show.

Installed a "new" used grill that was better than the one in the car. Also installed the missing C chrome trim on the fender around the headlights that I bought from a fellow member !!!!

Installed the frame to fender braces that were missing when I got the car. Now the fender in front of the front tires doesn't flex at all.

Sprayed and installed the front and rear side marker lights. Fronts were missing and the rears were incorrect when I got the car. Also got the full set from another fellow member. I rattle canned them with Duplicolor Intense Blue Pearl which was a decent match to the B5 Blue the car is painted. I figured if I ever order real B5 blue touch up, I can just give a light sand and topcoat them again. The clips that held the lenses in cracked off when I was cleaning up the housings, so I just used some double sided tape to hold them in. ( I did get some abuse from RC for not doing this sooner !!!!! Oh Well !!! LOL).

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Installed a B&M trans pan today. Used the Moroso rubber encased steel gasket.
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Wired the temp sensor; tomorrow will run the power.
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[QUOTE="NJRR, post: 911075292, member: 6671 The clips that held the lenses in cracked off when I was cleaning up the housings, so I just used some double sided tape to hold them in. ( I did get some abuse from RC for not doing this sooner !!!!! Oh Well !!! LOL).[/QUOTE]

Those tabs always break - all 4 of my side markers are held on with either tape or glue.
 
He did say that the older machines had some other features that the new machines don't (bump adjust?), but he aligned it and test drove and re-aligned it 4 times to get it right.
Bump steer can be checked with any alignment system.
Lots of good alignment techs will test drive, align, then drive to use a seat of the pants to feel how the car drives, then make small adjustments to fine tune the car, making sure of straight steering wheel. In my opinion your alignment guy sounds like he is on of the good ones!
 
I put the rear tires back on today. I've been fighting the new stainless brakes lines for a while trying to get them all seated and to stop leaking. Had to adjust a couple of them to get the connections lined up better. Then when I finally got the leaks stop, I went to loosen the rear drum bleeder on the passenger side and found the bleeder was broken. Ran to parts store (without pulling the old bleeder out). We believe the rear end is probably from the same car the 440 is from, probably a 68 Road Runner (pretty sure anyway). Got home, extracted the broken bleeder and found I got the wrong size bleeder. I forgot my brother put on the some 11" drums that he had, so I don't know what year those are. Replaced both rear bleeders and started bleeding the brakes, just me, myself and I. I put a tube and bottle on the bleeder and loosened the rear passenger side (very little space to work in). Went around and slowly pushed down the brake peddle and locked it with a clamp. Kept doing this over and over until I had all 4 bleed and had a good peddle. Keep checking it all over for a couple days and the rear bleeders wouldn't stop seeping. Took them out and put on a little pipe dope and tightened them down, bleed the rears again, tightened them a couple more times and FINALLY everything is sealed.
 
Whoa, I don't think I'd put pipe sealer on bleeder screws.

Something's not right if they won't seal without it.

...and now you're trusting the sealer instead of the metal.

I put stainless lines on my 73 and had no leaks simply assembling as normal with used OEM and rockauto replacement parts (Wagner or Raybestos brand).

The only thing I noticed was that the passage holes in the rear wheel cylinders were much smaller than those in the cylinders that came off. I'll likely rebuild the OEM cylinders eventually.

...and BTW I went with DOT 5. It still could use some bleeding, but it stops confidently.
 
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