What to heat the garage with????

[Don selleck]

a boiler pump was used to move the fluid with a thermos static switch to turn it off and on. both can be had at menards don't know if they have them down there its like home depot. concrete here in Michigan is 4" thick for a standard slab, you grade your dirt 4 " below your final concrete level, so you can slope your grade to the front doors in a barn or to a drain in a basement. don't forget to allow for the thickness of the foam insulation under the tubes. so 1" foam would be 5" below your final level. I know you need to fasten the stuff down pretty good I've heard concrete guys saying it like to float in wet concrete.

 

[PP1RT]

Is 2" the standard depth? I will be pouring 5 1/2" floor.

 

[747mopar]

Another question, any good options for heating a paint booth? I'm building a 24X24 addition right now that I'll do all of my painting in and want something that won't ignite any fumes. I'd love to use propane but don't know if there's options that are 100% sealed plus it needs to be radiant as to not stir up dust.

 

[PP1RT]

Another question, any good options for heating a paint booth? I'm building a 24X24 addition right now that I'll do all of my painting in and want something that won't ignite any fumes. I'd love to use propane but don't know if there's options that are 100% sealed plus it needs to be radiant as to not stir up dust.

Electric baseboard heaters??

 

[mopar 3 B]

a boiler pump was used to move the fluid with a thermos static switch to turn it off and on. both can be had at menards don't know if they have them down there its like home depot. concrete here in Michigan is 4" thick for a standard slab, you grade your dirt 4 " below your final concrete level, so you can slope your grade to the front doors in a barn or to a drain in a basement. don't forget to allow for the thickness of the foam insulation under the tubes. so 1" foam would be 5" below your final level. I know you need to fasten the stuff down pretty good I've heard concrete guys saying it like to float in wet concrete.

I know all about rebar float. Steel at 490# per cub ft will float in 144# per cub ft concrete if worked enough. That why I asked about the self leveling concrete. Just have to mix, dump and squeegy the piles will self level itself. No finishing required. Just don't try it on a sloped floor is it will level itself on the low end.

 

[Don selleck]

Is 2" the standard depth? I will be pouring 5 1/2" floor.

further away from the surface would be better in my opinion.

Another question, any good options for heating a paint booth? I'm building a 24X24 addition right now that I'll do all of my painting in and want something that won't ignite any fumes. I'd love to use propane but don't know if there's options that are 100% sealed plus it needs to be radiant as to not stir up dust.

you'll be using a exhaust fan when your painting anyway, heat main area and booth you can draw off heated air from your main area, have a fresh air make up higher in room of main area so dirt wont fly as much, plus your paint booth will have to be filtered too. winter time paint on a large scale is hard to do in cold climates unless you have a huge main area and big output heat source.

 

[philcollins]

How much concrete is on the tubes and what type?
I also understand run lenght and layout are an important part of the system. I am finding this type heat to be the most versital. Only requires a boiler of some type be it propane, solar or anything between. Just a matter of changing the heat source.

4 in of concrete, don't know the type. It was sub-contract, i know its was fiberglass reinforced. No re-bar in it. Yes layout is important for uniform temperature.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Another question, any good options for heating a paint booth? I'm building a 24X24 addition right now that I'll do all of my painting in and want something that won't ignite any fumes. I'd love to use propane but don't know if there's options that are 100% sealed plus it needs to be radiant as to not stir up dust.

Heat lamps. Why you got dust in a paint booth?

 

[philcollins]

a boiler pump was used to move the fluid with a thermos static switch to turn it off and on. both can be had at menards don't know if they have them down there its like home depot. concrete here in Michigan is 4" thick for a standard slab, you grade your dirt 4 " below your final concrete level, so you can slope your grade to the front doors in a barn or to a drain in a basement. don't forget to allow for the thickness of the foam insulation under the tubes. so 1" foam would be 5" below your final level. I know you need to fasten the stuff down pretty good I've heard concrete guys saying it like to float in wet concrete.

Just be sure to use an expansion tank, in line.

 

[mopar 3 B]

4 in of concrete, don't know the type. It was sub-contract, i know its was fiberglass reinforced. No re-bar in it. Yes layout is important for uniform temperature.

That layout in French?

 

[philcollins]

That layout in French?

Yes, in short,

3 lines of approx 220' ea. 1 foot apart, except for the one near the outside wall 6". 3 loops 6" apart near the garage doors.

I remember the manufacturer of that system said 4 in of concrete. The tubing is hold by the insulation so it won't "float" when the concrete was poured.

 

[747mopar]

Heat lamps. Why you got dust in a paint booth?

I scrub and scrub and it seams like there's always some dust somewhere. I prefer the only moving air to be the exhaust and a filtered air intake. Unfortunately the exhaust sucks the heat out, I'd like to make some serious heat in there.

 

[Hemirunner]

. I love propane.

We can tell, lol. You really could have had the best of all worlds with the in floor heat using a propane fired tankless water heater. These systems are so inexpensive, the highest cost is the tubing. It’d be a great system for your paint booth. No air movement.

 

[mopar 3 B]

I scrub and scrub and it seams like there's always some dust somewhere. I prefer the only moving air to be the exhaust and a filtered air intake. Unfortunately the exhaust sucks the heat out, I'd like to make some serious heat in there.

You keeping the doors shut and using it for nothing but a paint booth? You may need to build an air lock.

 

[Sahara]

I live in a place where it actually gets REALLY cold. For many months on end. I have a 24x40x12h garage that I heat with a radiant tube heater. It's the way to go.
My previous garage was smaller and had a boiler with in floor heating pipes. It was not as good.

 

[Xp29h]

I've got 2 heat pumps in the house. The winters since installing have been very cold. Neither pump has lost anything. Bills and usage didn't climb during those times. They are much more efficient than earlier ones.

Now, that said, one has to feel careful where they are placed. Inside a garage shouldn't be a problem unless there is water pipes. They can trick your regular heating system and in winter and water pipes can freeze up. (Hot water baseboard type heat). With that in mind for a house be careful but I've been thinking of putting one in my garage!

 

[moose1]

Here's the solution I used - a tube heater. Built my shop in '04 & was going to install a wood stove. Once I realized what it would cost to meet fire code up here, floor space lost, wood cost & storage, etc. this heater was a bargain - $2200. installed, I dug the gas line trench & framed the roof structure to hold it. No pilot light & sealed combustion chamber means it's perfectly safe. I used a "honeywell" household thermostat. Because it's radiant heat, the whole shop maintains the same temperature & it has worked flawlessly ever since.

 

[747mopar]

Here's the solution I used - a tube heater. Built my shop in '04 & was going to install a wood stove. Once I realized what it would cost to meet fire code up here, floor space lost, wood cost & storage, etc. this heater was a bargain - $2200. installed, I dug the gas line trench & framed the roof structure to hold it. No pilot light & sealed combustion chamber means it's perfectly safe. I used a "honeywell" household thermostat. Because it's radiant heat, the whole shop maintains the same temperature & it has worked flawlessly ever since.

View attachment 539084 View attachment 539085

I like the idea of these but everybody I talk to says because they blow threw a tube then exhaust they aren't as effecient as a unit heater. Doesn't mean they'r not great but my primary concern is fuel usage, I'm looking at units that are 93% effecient.

 

[PP1RT]

I like the idea of these but everybody I talk to says because they blow threw a tube then exhaust they aren't as effecient as a unit heater. Doesn't mean they'r not great but my primary concern is fuel usage, I'm looking at units that are 93% effecient.

I have been doing more reading and think no matter which route i go i am going to put 2" pink styrofoam and poly under the concrete to keep the slab at inside temp and dry. As long as i am doing that might as well run the pex too whether i use it or not right away.

 

[bm02tj]

Look at

I like the idea of these but everybody I talk to says because they blow threw a tube then exhaust they aren't as effecient as a unit heater. Doesn't mean they'r not great but my primary concern is fuel usage, I'm looking at units that are 93% effecient.

If you look at the savings of 10 to 12 % when you are using wood as main heat when you are using shop
the extra cost and maintenance needs to be looked at
also secondary heat exchangers are like your rad and do not like dust and dirt
The standard test for efficiency does not show tube heaters as good but they are
They had to redo tests for fireplaces but have not for tube heaters