What transmission fluid to use
- Thread starter malex
- Start date
Haha Wooks, I didn't know you were a comedian too! The longer I can avoid you in the next lane the better, haha.
Thanks Mr. Gaines! Update. A late change on my end is that there's an A&A billet low gear set on the way courtesy of and thanks to buddy Chris (Superstockracer). The converter that Lenny built for me stalls at 5500-5600, so there's room to tighten it up a little with a lower gear set. The new set will make the Plymouth act like it's got a 4.56 gear through 1st, 4.35's through 2nd, and back to 4.10'a in 3rd. Pretty sure a new personal best is in the works.
New A&A billet gear set for the Plymouth.
Lots of changes on the Plymouth since last race day. The Hemi scooped hood on the wall is repaired and ready to go back on at a moments notice.
Heading into 2018 with a good 727 transmission, a custom built converter from Lenny, and 170 lbs lighter.
Differential Day.
Transmission is supposed to be back in the next day or 2 so I figured that today would be a good time to check out the Dana. The beauty of having a dana, remove the cover, have a look at the contact, check bolt torque and back on with the rear cover.
Quaker State 75W140 came out, almost as clean as it went in.
Everything looked like new, checked out good.
Back together with 60" lbs preload on the bearing caps.
Fresh Amsoil for the 2018 season. Considered 75W90 but ended up going with 75W110.
Next up, transmission.
Transmission is supposed to be back in the next day or 2 so I figured that today would be a good time to check out the Dana. The beauty of having a dana, remove the cover, have a look at the contact, check bolt torque and back on with the rear cover.
Quaker State 75W140 came out, almost as clean as it went in.
Everything looked like new, checked out good.
Back together with 60" lbs preload on the bearing caps.
Fresh Amsoil for the 2018 season. Considered 75W90 but ended up going with 75W110.
Next up, transmission.
gtxracer
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malex, Pat Blais, the guy that builds my trans and has been doing torqueflites for about 50 years has never R&R the sprag with a bolt in. Never had any problems and my GTX 60 fts. in the low 1.40's with a best of 10.34
Bob
---malex, Pat Blais, the guy that builds my trans and has been doing torqueflites for about 50 years has never R&R the sprag with a bolt in. Never had any problems and my GTX 60 fts. in the low 1.40's with a best of 10.34
Bob
GTX this is very interesting to read. Replacing the sprag with a quality bolt-in type with more rollers is a common upgrade for the 727 race transmission. I haven't personally experienced nor seen a failed sprag but there's plenty of people who talk about it.
I even installed a A&A bolt-in sprag in my "next project" 727 while I had it apart.
GTX do you use a transbrake on your car?
NSS Guy
Well-Known Member
I broke the ring and pinion last september, and yes it took the 'bolt in' sprag out along with cracking the rear drum. I believe the bolt in sprag did save the case as the outer race did not spin and chew up the case. fwiw
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Tough break there NSS. Likely the bolts kept the sprag from breaking loose in the case.
Was it a 8 3/4 or Dana that broke?
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That had to be unexpected. Must be big power.
Measure 5 times, adjust once? Where are you located at for curiosity?
NSS Guy
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gtxracer
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Having made my first pass at Sacramento Raceway in '72, I have seen a couple grenades in the past that began as a torqueflite. Not mine, but this can result in considerable carnage. I agree replacing the sprag with a bolt-in is done most of the time. Pat, my friend and trans builder has a '63 Plymouth Max Wedge and his daily driver was a '70 Hemi cuda. To answer your question, Yes, I do have a trans brake and leave at 3500. I trust Pat's judgment. Just curious, are you close to Mission Raceway?
Bob
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Bob I've heard Pat's name numerous times and I see that he sells on ebay as well. Definitely a professional transmission man. Unfortunately I'm about 850 miles away from Mission but it's a track that I plan on making my way to. That's excellent, a racing career all the way back to 1972! I started very late and just got my first year behind me.
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A VERY nice 64! It sure leaves nice, has to run strong.
NSS Guy
Well-Known Member
The "grenade" is when the stock front drum over revs and explodes. Number #1 trans upgrade should be an aftermarket front drum able to handle the 2.2 rev's seen. Even a 12 second car can explode the stock front drum if it over rev's. The bolt in sprag might save the case that's about it.
Thanks malex, you have a very nice car, looks like we run about the same times.
Thanks malex, you have a very nice car, looks like we run about the same times.
My Transmission came back today. Will be noticably better next time out, that's for sure. Not wasting any time neither.
Not your everyday transmission jack but it sure works excellent. To get the trany up there, stand trany up on the floor with the nose down. Bolt the plate to the bottom of the pan, roll up the jack and slip the arm into the receiver on the plate. Put the cross bolt in, tip the trany back against the arm and jack it up.
Let the jack down, roll under and jack back up. I wrap a chain around the tail shaft because it gets nose heavy in this position.
Trans going up into place.
The receiver is on a hinge so it's easy to get the correct angle at the back of the engine. Ready to add oil and fire it up, tomorrow.
Not your everyday transmission jack but it sure works excellent. To get the trany up there, stand trany up on the floor with the nose down. Bolt the plate to the bottom of the pan, roll up the jack and slip the arm into the receiver on the plate. Put the cross bolt in, tip the trany back against the arm and jack it up.
Let the jack down, roll under and jack back up. I wrap a chain around the tail shaft because it gets nose heavy in this position.
Trans going up into place.
The receiver is on a hinge so it's easy to get the correct angle at the back of the engine. Ready to add oil and fire it up, tomorrow.
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Thanks NSS. Yes the front drum is key, My trany has a new low-gear set, aluminum front drum and 16-roller Ultimate sprag now. Lenny @ Ultimate built me a nice converter too, matched to my car, and the new weight, will be a nice upgrade from the 2nd hand converter I bought from the classifieds and was using. Also changed the front input shaft in the trany, the splines were twisted on the one that came out.
The 16 roller type is the best available. Most of the bolt-ins were designed as case savers when the stock outer race becomes loose. Jeff Freese broke a Dana 2 years ago with his 10.0 N/SS car. I tried to fix it at the track. It had a 16 element. Still took out the case.
Doug
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