Worth it or not

[mach123]

I have a 72 charger with a stock 318 but not matching numbers, and have the chance to buy a 400 with 727 trans running as I speak for 1000 OBO and is from a 73 newport. So should I go for the change and what should be the most I should pay for it. Plus is there that much difference I will notice. Thanks
Darren

 

[super-bee_ski]

$750 the most I'd pay for the 400 with the transmission.
Ultimately, I personally would "dig-up" a 440!
Again, people want too much money for engines so be careful.

 

[WP29440SE]

in my opinion, a "matching numbers" 318 doesnt mean squat. i never thought i would see the day when anyone would be quoting a numbers matching 318 car LMAO.

are you asking how much you should pay for the BB and trans? you are comparing 318 cubic inches to 400 cubic inches, i think that speaks for itself.

 

[mach123]

Ya thats funny, ok so how hard is it to find a 440 then and what should I be looking for if any, would that trans fit on a 440 or look for complete engine trans. Thanks

 

[mach123]

What cars had the 440 and would work in my 72 charger. Thanks

 

[RustyRatRod]

A grand for a 400 is stupid high.

 

[Bruzilla]

in my opinion, a "matching numbers" 318 doesnt mean squat. i never thought i would see the day when anyone would be quoting a numbers matching 318 car LMAO.

are you asking how much you should pay for the BB and trans? you are comparing 318 cubic inches to 400 cubic inches, i think that speaks for itself.

This goes to the "what is rare" string. I think the whole concept of "numbers matching" doesn't mean squat. If you bought a Hemi roadrunner in 1970, and the tranny blew out, they would have replaced it with another tranny if it would be too much to fix. An original car, with an OEM tranny, with the tranny replaced by the manufacturer's service people, makes that car just as good as any numbers matching car.

 

[mach123]

Ok so what 440 would be the best in the 72 charger, big block, short block what yr and car would have what I am looking for in a 440 and what would be a price to pay. Thanks

 

[RustyRatRod]

I wouldn't use just a short block. It won't run.

 

[mach123]

ok so big block it is

 

[mach123]

what trans went with that 440, I have auto and must stay auto when built do to right leg injury.

 

[YY1]

You will get about a 40% horsepower boost with the 400, and a corrsponding 40% (or more) decrease in MPG.

$750-$1000 for a running driving, 100% complete 400 and trans is not terrible.
You might could do better if you looked for a while, but then again, you might not.
If you are buying it to rebuild anyway, you can do much better.

However, be advised that all the "little parts" like the linkage, and brackets, are getting harder and harder to find, and are different from year to year, and might not work together if bought seperately.

 

[bigredbird]

Do you mean short block vs. long block? Those are different definitions from big block vs. small block. If you move from small block to big block you'll have a few mods to make to fit the bigger engine. OTOH you could build your 318 into a 500HP monster, or swap in a ready-to-run crate 340 from Ma Mopar ($$$$$) or a crate 360/408 from other builders ($$$) and have plenty of G-force, without mods to fit a bigger engine block. A 400 is good for stroking to 451/512, but no good as itself because it was the big block that had its balls cut off by clean air standards back in the day. It takes up space and looks big and that's about it -- 190HP vs. 150 for your 318. Do you wanna spend $1000 on 40HP?

 

[mach123]

Do you mean short block vs. long block? Those are different definitions from big block vs. small block. If you move from small block to big block you'll have a few mods to make to fit the bigger engine. OTOH you could build your 318 into a 500HP monster, or swap in a ready-to-run crate 340 from Ma Mopar ($$$$$) or a crate 360/408 from other builders ($$$) and have plenty of G-force, without mods to fit a bigger engine block. A 400 is good for stroking to 451/512, but no good as itself because it was the big block that had its balls cut off by clean air standards back in the day. It takes up space and looks big and that's about it -- 190HP vs. 150 for your 318. Do you wanna spend $1000 on 40HP?

So what would be the best thing to do, spend $$$$ in the hp for the 318 or go with 400 and boost that one. Thanks

 

[RustyRatRod]

ok so big block it is

You need to spiff up your terminology so you can bench race with experience.

Short block= a partial engine without cylinder heads. A complete short block usually consists of block, crank, rods, pistons, cam, lifters, timing set, timing cover, harmonic balancer and oil pan. Although all it has to include to be a short block is block, crank, rods and pistons. It can be any size engine (big or small block) from a one cylinder briggs and stratton all the way up to the largest internal combustion engine made. Short block only denotes that it has no cylinder head(s).

Long block= an engine that includes block, crank, rods, pistons, cam, lifters, timing set, heads, sometimes valve gear, sometimes sheet metal (valve covers, oil pan, ect.), sometimes intake manifold, sometimes exhaust manifolds or headers, but it always includes the short block (in one of the forms explained above) plus the assembled heads.

Confusing "short block" and "long block" with "big block" and "small block" is a rookie mistake we as your Mopar bretheren cannot let you make.

 

[70RR]

440 ?

If you are going to go though all this..I would like to get 440 HP Engine vs the typical 440 found in say a C-Body..My $0.02 worth.:happy5:..Rick

I have a 72 charger with a stock 318 but not matching numbers, and have the chance to buy a 400 with 727 trans running as I speak for 1000 OBO and is from a 73 newport. So should I go for the change and what should be the most I should pay for it. Plus is there that much difference I will notice. Thanks
Darren

 

[bigredbird]

So what would be the best thing to do, spend $$$$ in the hp for the 318 or go with 400 and boost that one. Thanks

This is where Google becomes the best friend you ever had. Building the 318 and the 400 has been discussed on boards all over the web, with price ranges, builder recommendations, parts comparisons, etc. all posted in detail. Slow down, do the research, and remember the immortal words of Cat Stevens as you go into this engine project: "It's not time to make a change, Just relax, take it easy." :icon_mrgreen:

 

[tpodwdog]

why get a 400 when you can just as easily get a 440 ?

 

[YY1]

Because he has a running, driving 400 available locally and immediately.

This ain't the 80's guys, running, driving 440s for $500 aren't all over the place anymore.
Neither are HP blocks for that matter.

 

[mach123]

You need to spiff up your terminology so you can bench race with experience.

Short block= a partial engine without cylinder heads. A complete short block usually consists of block, crank, rods, pistons, cam, lifters, timing set, timing cover, harmonic balancer and oil pan. Although all it has to include to be a short block is block, crank, rods and pistons. It can be any size engine (big or small block) from a one cylinder briggs and stratton all the way up to the largest internal combustion engine made. Short block only denotes that it has no cylinder head(s).

Long block= an engine that includes block, crank, rods, pistons, cam, lifters, timing set, heads, sometimes valve gear, sometimes sheet metal (valve covers, oil pan, ect.), sometimes intake manifold, sometimes exhaust manifolds or headers, but it always includes the short block (in one of the forms explained above) plus the assembled heads.

Confusing "short block" and "long block" with "big block" and "small block" is a rookie mistake we as your Mopar bretheren cannot let you make.

Sorry,wont happen again.