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In my experience, a shudder while decelerating is the U-joints. Even though you tested, it may still be U-joints, if you were feeling for play "by hand." In contrast, a whining noise, when coasting on the highway and the car is decelerating slightly, is often the rear differential, the gears...

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When going UPS/FedEx/USPS, I can only think of two issues: 1. will it weigh under the maximum weight-per-package? I think USPS is 75#, where UPS may be upwards to 150#. I think a full 742 differential weights more than 150#. 2. will the item be boxed well enough to withstand being dropped...

The oil sending unit on the 440 block is at the rear, not the front, of the engine, just behind the intake manifold, and the top of the engine block, just in front of the transmission.

You may need to wait... years, before finding it.

The transmission-removal is procedure is outlined in detail in the Factory Service Manual. And I'm pretty sure I removed and installed my first one without any manual or advice. I'm not saying I am brilliant. I am not. But you may find the transmission is easier to remove than you think...

Engine Timing, be it mechanical (via timing chain between crank and cam) or distributor, is a more common cause of backfiring out through exhaust on engine start. Unless the mechanical crank to cam calibration is screwed up, you can try changing the timing using distributor position. Back in...

The play we feel in the power steering can be worn suspension parts. And this may be the more common cause, on these 50+ year old vehicles. I would recommend adjusting the power steering box, only AFTER, some diligence was used to eliminate obviously worn suspension joints, bushings and bearings.

Yup, the "Factory Service Manual" provides a majority of detail, unless you already own a copy. From there, it's google, message boards, and random pictures posted on forums. The best references can be "other cars" that have not been horribly altered and screwed around with.

No rulebook, per se. Although MMC Detroit David Wise markets publications that attempt to describe many of the fasteners we encounter during a restoration. They are, sadly, incomplete, but the best docs we have to date. The fasteners (the bolts, and nuts, and what not) only had a small number...

Lead is what they used at the factory. But very toxic, by modern-day standards. Think metal. Bondo is a plastic, and may crack when hammered by 9-second quarter mile runs on the unibody. As others have said, using various metal (kee non-cracking) solutions is what many find to work best...

I seem to recall the tic-tac-tock gauge is removed through the rear of the cluster assembly or bezel. Access to the rear of the cluster requires removal of the cluster.

Unless you can find the correct OEM screw in used condition, you may need to make due with something newly made. I have used short lengths of copper (or steel) tubing placed onto newer screws/bolts to provide the smooth shoulder shown by your image.

Spray the items with an oily protectant. This provides a barrier between the O2 in the air the the surface of the item(s). But laying them bare in a cardboard box leaches off the oil into the paper cardboard. They could still rust in a cardboard box. Store them in a place where temperature...

Just use the common butyl "rope" (about 3/8 diameter thick) we've all used over the years. This is the product used by windshield installers for nearly 50 years to adhere front and back glass to the car. I tend to overthink things. So, don't overthink this. Just use what everyone else in...

Four-barrel carburetors from this era have, for the most part, one basic air cleaner flange size, 5-1/8-inches. The early-Carter WCFB (and Rochester Quadrajet) found on corvettes and fords, has the 4-7/32 flange. That said, I seem to recall the 383-2-barrel base fits the 4-7/32-inch flange.

The hotter the coolant solution gets, the more it expands. But I think it tops out at +20% when the temperature gets above 300*F. I would not worry too much about overflow during your testing, unless the coolant is indeed getting darn hot. If your coolant temperature stays near the thermostat...

Since these are the same manifolds found on the 440-6, you can buy new castings of these manifolds from JEGS and Year One.

1K paint and 2K paint differ in several ways, including the number of components, how they dry, and their intended uses. 2K paints require a catalyst hardener to dry fully making them considerably tougher than 1K paints. Rattle can and most "air dry" paints are 1K.

It seems unlikely the intake hose would collapse at highway cruising speeds. Maybe racing it to redline, but not cruising, Shirley?