moparnation74
Well-Known Member
Is that the original tank? If the sending unit is original and has the 3/8 fuel and 1/4 vent. I would be interested in that. Shoot me a PM if you want to sell that...
Justin
1968 Plymouth GTX
- Thread starter '68 Coronet R/T
- Start date
Justin
'68 Coronet R/T
Well-Known Member
I don't think it is original. They had the vent lined capped at the front and just hanging at the rear. So I will be looking for the correct set up too when the time comes.
'68 Coronet R/T
Well-Known Member
Turns out it does have the original sending unit. I'll have to see if it still works.
I see reproductions are available.
I see reproductions are available.
threewood
Well-Known Member
If it is still in good shape, reuse it. And they can be repaired. Reproductions are generally not accurate on our gauges. I wish I had saved mine.
'68 Coronet R/T
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the head up on that.
Outlaw525
Well-Known Member
Removed the brake master cylinder, brake pedal assembly and brake lines.
When I pulled the front right wheel I found the car came with the optional disc brakes.
View attachment 681658
Those appear to be later model single piston calipers. Good start and good luck on your build. Love the 68's. Here's my '68 Hemi GTX. Left the exterior pretty much as we found it after being in a storage unit for 30 years.
When I pulled the front right wheel I found the car came with the optional disc brakes.
View attachment 681658
Those appear to be later model single piston calipers. Good start and good luck on your build. Love the 68's. Here's my '68 Hemi GTX. Left the exterior pretty much as we found it after being in a storage unit for 30 years.
moparnation74
Well-Known Member
If it is an original unit I would be interested in it......If it has the right date, readable stampings and not pitted....If the right date I have an original 70 unit which is the same just different date. It is restored and calibrated for an even trade.......
If your interested shoot me a PM of the date format on it. Originals have a 4 date format, a penstar and the "INITROL" stamped on it...
moparnation74
Well-Known Member
Just low bro....
threewood
Well-Known Member
'68 Coronet R/T
Well-Known Member
Sending unit appears to be a KS replacement.
Manual lists 3004180 for the sending unit, this one is obviously not that. 2857947
Manual lists 3004180 for the sending unit, this one is obviously not that. 2857947
moparnation74
Well-Known Member
Well that’s a bummer for both of us. If i do find one. I will let the one I have go for a good price and will shoot you a pm... Thank you for checking and getting back to me.....
so nice to see someone taking the time to look and respond back....
'68 Coronet R/T
Well-Known Member
I do what I can to help a fellow Mopar enthusiast!
'68 Coronet R/T
Well-Known Member
Decided to dismantle the hood to be sure to get all the rust out.
You can see that the inner support at the bottom of this picture is loose.
Not too bad for a 50 year old car.
I also removed this center support shown here because the hood catch bolt had broken off and the nut fell off inside. I will post a picture of that later.
The inserts that hold the 440 emblems looked good but this one had a broken stud.
I will have to figure out how to repair it when the time comes.
You can see that the inner support at the bottom of this picture is loose.
Not too bad for a 50 year old car.
I also removed this center support shown here because the hood catch bolt had broken off and the nut fell off inside. I will post a picture of that later.
The inserts that hold the 440 emblems looked good but this one had a broken stud.
I will have to figure out how to repair it when the time comes.
'68 Coronet R/T
Well-Known Member
Hood center support removed and the problem bolt and nut revealed.
You can see the remnants of the mouse nest I found under there as well.
You can see the remnants of the mouse nest I found under there as well.
'68 Coronet R/T
Well-Known Member
Inner and center supports after a trip to the blast cabinet.
The holes where I drilled through removing spot welds will be welded up prior to epoxy primer and reassembly.
Removed the hood hinge nut assemblies.
Look much better after blasting.
Washing support structure in preparation for media blasting.
It is at this stage where I take a hammer and dolly to any areas that need straightening.
Scraping the hardened adhesive off prior to washing and straightening any dents in areas that are hard to reach when assembled.
Like the dent in the front of the hood shown in the picture after this.
The dent on the hood where the emblem attaches had a few other areas around it that were pushed in as well.
Was much easier tapping them out now than later. Also the hood latch area on the support structure was caved in a bit and that too was easily bumped out.
The holes where I drilled through removing spot welds will be welded up prior to epoxy primer and reassembly.
Removed the hood hinge nut assemblies.
Look much better after blasting.
Washing support structure in preparation for media blasting.
It is at this stage where I take a hammer and dolly to any areas that need straightening.
Scraping the hardened adhesive off prior to washing and straightening any dents in areas that are hard to reach when assembled.
Like the dent in the front of the hood shown in the picture after this.
The dent on the hood where the emblem attaches had a few other areas around it that were pushed in as well.
Was much easier tapping them out now than later. Also the hood latch area on the support structure was caved in a bit and that too was easily bumped out.
showard
Well-Known Member
A lot of detailed work! It will turn out looking perfect.
'68 Coronet R/T
Well-Known Member
Too windy to blast outside to day so I started working on the upper control arms.
Removed the upper ball joint using a 1/2" Impact Driver and a special socket I purchased when doing the Coronet R/T. Makes easier work out of an otherwise very difficult job.
Heated the inner sleeve on the bushings with a Propane (Mapp) gas torch until hot and then removed it. The rubber comes out easy after that.
Before picture:
After a trip through the blast cabinet:
Ready for epoxy primer:
Tomorrow I hope to finish blasting the hood but if too windy again, I'll begin working on the lower control arms. Need to get them ready so I can weld on the new sway arm brackets when they arrive.
Removed the upper ball joint using a 1/2" Impact Driver and a special socket I purchased when doing the Coronet R/T. Makes easier work out of an otherwise very difficult job.
Heated the inner sleeve on the bushings with a Propane (Mapp) gas torch until hot and then removed it. The rubber comes out easy after that.
Before picture:
After a trip through the blast cabinet:
Ready for epoxy primer:
Tomorrow I hope to finish blasting the hood but if too windy again, I'll begin working on the lower control arms. Need to get them ready so I can weld on the new sway arm brackets when they arrive.
'68 Coronet R/T
Well-Known Member
While working on the lower control arms I made a discovery. It appears these are the original LCAs but someone cut off the sway arm brackets. At least that is what I am thinking these welds were for. Both control arms have them in the same area.
Before you get to carried away consider what stance/tires/driving your going to do. You might consider aftermarket arms. At the min. you might consider the offset moog bushings to get more adjustment for radial tires. Just throwing it out there so you don't waste time or money on something you might change later.
moparlee
Well-Known Member
Nice job on cleaning up the hood inner structure. Maybe you already know this, but do not sandblast the outer hood panel. That large flat surface will warp with sandblasting. You don't want to mess up a nice solid original hood.
Similar threads
