hofferwood
Well-Known Member
That's it!!--------the cover, insp. plate.
It looks good. I also see that the pan bolts were not overtightened, a good thing. Yes, the starter must be removed to take the cover off. I've known of people who cut the cover so that it can be removed without disturbing the starter.Here is what the filter and pan looked like. I dont see nothing too alarming. The mark on the filter is where I held it up to get the screws out. Replace it with a Wix filter.
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See below. The large part is the "dust cover" and the small "trapezoidal-shaped" part is the "inspection plate".I dont know if it is an "inspection" cover but there is a cover that is on the bottom of the trans bellhousing. It is not easy as I have to remove the starter to get it off. There are 6 bolts
Another clue, we got in the 50s last night so low 60s in the garage. When I first started it and put it in gear, no noise. When it warmed up about 5 minutes idling, the noise appeared faintly.
Once the car cools down I will continue. Thought it was easier.
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The bump and the divit are magnetic.While you have the pan off, drop a couple of short round magnets in there. They will attract any little pieces of metallic contaminent.
Mine does not have an inspection cover. It is all one piece.See below. The large part is the "dust cover" and the small "trapezoidal-shaped" part is the "inspection plate".
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Not all, but a lot of, late 70's Torqueflites (904 and 727) had lockup torque converters and they do not have a drain plug. These cars have a one piece cover and no "inspection plate" because the torque converter cannot be drained. The other Torqueflites from the late 1970's probably have the same one piece one-piece cover; and most likely do not have a drain plug in the converter. I have seen non-lockup converters without a drain plug, BUT they have a dimple where one could be drilled and tapped if you're an adventurous person...drill and tap without introducing debris/burrs into the torque converter.
My manual calls for 10ft-lbs. thats what I torque then toIt looks good. I also see that the pan bolts were not overtightened, a good thing. Yes, the starter must be removed to take the cover off. I've known of people who cut the cover so that it can be removed without disturbing the starter.
It does it in all gears except Park and Neutral
I cant really hear it while driving but sometimes when stopped.Does it continue to squeal if you're driving down the road and shift the trans from drive to neutral?
This looks like a cheesy flexplate compared to mine. Mine looks thicker.
It sometimes squeals when stopped (foot on brake) when in drive?but sometimes when stopped.
Does not squeak in P or N. However, once I go through the gears and back to P or N I hear it slightly and a slight goose of the peddle stops it yes.It sometimes squeals when stopped (foot on brake) when in drive?
Will it squeal in D or N if you raise the engine above idle speed a bit?
What would it mean if increasing rpm made the squeaking stopped in P orN after I had it in gear and it is making the noise slightly?It sometimes squeals when stopped (foot on brake) when in drive?
Will it squeal in D or N if you raise the engine above idle speed a bit?
I noticed when I had the pan off that the tip of the dipstick stuck about a 1/4" below the bottom of the metal opening. I was like "what's this" but then I realized it was the tip of the dipstick if that helps any.The normal oil level is about 1/2 inch above the aluminum casting that the tube hole is in.
Keep us up to date on this, I'm intrigued.
This is what it should look like.I noticed when I had the pan off that the tip of the dipstick stuck about a 1/4" below the bottom of the metal opening. I was like "what's this" but then I realized it was the tip of the dipstick if that helps any.
Yes, that's what I remember seeing.This is what it should look like.
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