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1979 Dodge Magnum 360-727 torqueflite squeaking in R,D,2,1

What would it mean if increasing rpm made the squeaking stopped in N?

The manual only talks about whirring, knock, buzz and scraping. I dont know where squeaking fits?

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Not sure at the moment, but is there foam on the dipstick after driving around for awhile?

Also, check the shifter linkage to make sure the lever on the transmission is correctly positioned. I don't have my '79 service manual handy at the moment.

Ramble:
1) When the trans is in park, most of the fluid from the pump output goes back to the pan and a small amount goes to the converter. Checking the fluid level in park will cause the fluid level to be high on the dipstick. Torqueflites are checked in neutral, but you already know that.

2) When the trans is in neutral, the fluid circulates to the the converter and fills it and keeps it filled. Torqueflites are designed to be checked in neutral, idling.

3) Trans fluid is supposed to be at operating temperature when checking the fluid level because of the fluid's coefficient of thermal expansion. Again, its designed that way for practically...more likely to check the level with a warmed up transmission than a cold one.

4) Your pan looked pretty clean and you didn't mention any metal chips. Maybe your converter is okay/not disintegrating.

5) Old car and sat unused for awhile? Elastomeric o-rings take a "set" and will permit fluid to leak by internally. I wouldn't expect this to cause noises or create operating noises like you described.

I'm stumped for the time being. I'll sleep on it.
 
Yes, that's what I remember seeing.
And, just for shits and giggles, a picture of a tube and stick that I made and used in 1966.
DSC02018.JPG
 
Not sure at the moment, but is there foam on the dipstick after driving around for awhile?

Also, check the shifter linkage to make sure the lever on the transmission is correctly positioned. I don't have my '79 service manual handy at the moment.

Ramble:
1) When the trans is in park, most of the fluid from the pump output goes back to the pan and a small amount goes to the converter. Checking the fluid level in park will cause the fluid level to be high on the dipstick. Torqueflites are checked in neutral, but you already know that.

2) When the trans is in neutral, the fluid circulates to the the converter and fills it and keeps it filled. Torqueflites are designed to be checked in neutral, idling.

3) Trans fluid is supposed to be at operating temperature when checking the fluid level because of the fluid's coefficient of thermal expansion. Again, its designed that way for practically...more likely to check the level with a warmed up transmission than a cold one.

4) Your pan looked pretty clean and you didn't mention any metal chips. Maybe your converter is okay/not disintegrating.

5) Old car and sat unused for awhile? Elastomeric o-rings take a "set" and will permit fluid to leak by internally. I wouldn't expect this to cause noises or create operating noises like you described.

I'm stumped for the time being. I'll sleep on it.
2) Yes, I drove it a while and had engine temp at normal. I followed the book and ran it through the gears R, N, D, 2, 1 and then back to N with the E brake on. I checked it. When I sucked the oil out, it was hot enough to burn me. After I sucked the oil out to "full" level, i drove it around to make sure it was shifting and behaving. it did. I then checked it again. I have not noticed at any time, overfilled or Full any bubbles or foam on the dipstick. I did notice one thing when overfilled that the engine temp was running above 12 oclock on the gauge. That was another clue that it was overfilled. Since then it stays at 12 oclock.
4) I only noticed small glitter like metallic paint flecks in the bottom that you see. There were no shards or anything like that.
5) Yes, I don't know how long this car sat. I have pictures of it on a trailer in a garage all dusty so my guess is a long time. Also, this is suppose to have only 11,360 miles on it. From all the paperwork I have and shape of car, engine compartment and interior I have yet to find anything that says different. The PCV valve still has the blue paint of the motor on it. The Lean Burn is intact and runs great. It is just a little cold blooded when you first start it for about 5 minutes. It only has a 2 barrel on it but I am impress with its pep.

To me this sound emits from the back of the engine/bellhousing. If I were a to take a guess, it is the torque converter or rear of the engine under load.
 
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Not sure at the moment, but is there foam on the dipstick after driving around for awhile?

Also, check the shifter linkage to make sure the lever on the transmission is correctly positioned. I don't have my '79 service manual handy at the moment.

Ramble:
1) When the trans is in park, most of the fluid from the pump output goes back to the pan and a small amount goes to the converter. Checking the fluid level in park will cause the fluid level to be high on the dipstick. Torqueflites are checked in neutral, but you already know that.

2) When the trans is in neutral, the fluid circulates to the the converter and fills it and keeps it filled. Torqueflites are designed to be checked in neutral, idling.

3) Trans fluid is supposed to be at operating temperature when checking the fluid level because of the fluid's coefficient of thermal expansion. Again, its designed that way for practically...more likely to check the level with a warmed up transmission than a cold one.

4) Your pan looked pretty clean and you didn't mention any metal chips. Maybe your converter is okay/not disintegrating.

5) Old car and sat unused for awhile? Elastomeric o-rings take a "set" and will permit fluid to leak by internally. I wouldn't expect this to cause noises or create operating noises like you described.

I'm stumped for the time being. I'll sleep on it.
Does the transmission draw power from the Alternator? I put it back together and test drove it. When cold no noise but when warm/normal temp it sounds. It is hot today so I turned on the AC and I am getting the same squeaking noise. With the AC on if I give it gas off idle the noise seems to disappear.

If the transmission does not use any power of the Alternator, what would be causing that sound on the engine?

My oil pressure is well above 12 oclock. I changed the oil and filter with 10w30 when I first got it a month ago.
 
The only power to the transmission would be the neutral start and backup light plug. And it isn't "using" any power, just switching it to other areas.
 
The only power to the transmission would be the neutral start and backup light plug. And it isn't "using" any power, just switching it to other areas.
That's what I thought.
 
I would warm it up again until the noise returns and then remove all of the accessory drive belts. Just to make absolutely sure the noise isn't related to the belts or the driven accessories. The power steering pump is a temperature-dependent accessory. Remove the power steering belt first and check for the noise. Then, remove the remaining belts and check for the noise again just to make sure one the other belts/accessories aren't the culprit.

I would go ahead with draining and flushing of the power steering system. A fluid extractor is a handy tool for draining the power steering reservoir.

More rambling:
The kinematic viscosity of transmission fluid and power steering fluid (sometimes the same for some cars) dramatically drops off with increases in fluid temperature. Age and wear-and-tear (fluid shearing over time) causes a permanent drop in kinematic viscosity and lubricity.

You have already changed the transmission fluid. So, see my suggestions above for the power steering and accessory drive belts.

Otherwise, I'm still stumped.
:(
 
Check the transmission mount and see if if the rubber is torn or degraded to the point where metal parts of the mount are contacting one another and are the source of chattering/squealing when the transmission is in gear.

Along the same lines, just to eliminate one more thing, check to see if the fan blades have lightly contacted the radiator shroud. I'm thinking transmission mount is allowing the engine to twist too much and the blades are contacting the shroud. That being said, I would think the squeal would get worse, not go away, when you blip the throttle above idle speed.

Anyway, check all three mounts anyway. Your transmission guy should do the same when he looks at your car.

Your labor hours are free.
:)
 
So I used the 4' of vacuum hose to my ear and pinpointed the noise. It was coming from PCV valve. I had replaced it with an Autozone equivalent. I put the original back in and no more noise. Took it for a long test drive and still no noise.

Update: I put the Autozone one back in and in a few minutes the noise came back. I put the old one back in and noise gone.
 
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A cheap fix!
 
I looked for cracks but I guess something is make it chattering.
 
I had a brother in law that was hearing a high pitch squealing on his Ford pickup that nobody else could hear. It was driving him crazy. He pinpointed it to the pvc valve. He replaced it with a new one. Noise was gone. Couldn't prove it by me but he was happy.
 
So I used the 4' of vacuum hose to my ear and pinpointed the noise. It was coming from PCV valve. I had replaced it with an Autozone equivalent. I put the original back in and no more noise. Took it for a long test drive and still no noise.

Update: I put the old one back in and in a few minutes the noise came back. I put the old one back in and noise gone.

Did you mean you put the  "new one back in and the noise gone".?
 
Is this an occilating noise? Like squeek, squeek, squeek, etc? Or is it a constant squeal? I've had crank seals constantly squeel. A 3 foot of vacuum hose held to your ear will help pinpoint the location precisely.
Doug
And, dvw is the winner! Good call.
 
Did you mean you put the  "new one back in and the noise gone".?
I put the original that I got with the car and the noise was gone. I put the new Autozone one in and the noise came back. Did it twice and it was the Autozone one causing the noise.

Weird thing is I changed that first thing when I got the car a month ago
 
I have had a couple weird things with PCV valves. I had a brand new 2000 Sebring convertible with the 4 speed auto stick. Dont remember the miles maybe 30kish when is started downshifting hard when breaking hard. Felt like someone rear ended me. The dealer put a code recorder and i would hit a button when it would happen. They found nothing. I didnt realize the car had a pcv valve. I changed it and after that I never had a trans issue again

This weekend my 2015 Durango started doing the same thing with 40k miles but now a PCV valve isnt $4. They are $37. I changed it in the Durango this weekend and no more hard downshifting when hard braking.

Must mess with the vacuum pressure
 
I had a crank thrust bearing go bad once that caused a weird squeak. Like yours, it only happened when in gear. It was quiet in neutral/park. Hopefully it's not that, as that can be expensive. Hopefully just a flex plate issue.
 
Just reading all the comments, everyone of them may be right, write a list and check it all, also check the flex plate bolts to make sure something is not coming loose, very common if no lockite on the bolts. It wouldn't hurt to do a band adjustment on the transmission also. Great videos on YouTube for that. Good luck, you will find the problem and your chest should swell out for that great feeling.
 
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