383 build how to get close to 500 hp with out a stroker kit?

[bigmanjbmopar]

Scenario:

stock 383 in 70 RR

Customer wants up to 500 HP with out stroker kit would be happy with 400-450
Has headers
I suggest EFI
Needs to run on 91 octane or less
Needs torque - Aluminum heads? Which ones?
Needs to fit under hood with factory air grabber
Needs to be able to drive state to state smoothly


What are the suggestions to get close to this goal?

Cam selection?
Heads?
Manifold with carb? Or EFI?

 

[lewtot184]

in my opinion, 500hp in a smooth, drivable pump gas 383 is a big over reach.

 

[mosquito13]

gas him and he will be happy, and can have the 500 when its needed.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I think mine would would do it, if I ran more head. All I am running are 516s ported with the larger exhaust valve. I am sure it'll be over 400 like it is. "Smooth and driveable" aint how it's gonna be......but FUN it is.

 

[696pack]

I don't think it is that difficult. With the engine blueprinted, quench build & aluminum heads will help with the pump gas (440 Source or Eddies) good matched cam & carb selection and what you have already listed should get you there. You should be able to run about 10.5 comp. with the right quench and alum. heads on pump premium. I don't think you need EFI. A good Edel. intake and Holley 750 double pumper will fit under the hood. Most people over carb for there build and a 750 for a stock displacement 383 is probably the max. He is going to have to live with a little lope with the cam but a roller hydraulic will have the best street manners and less wear on the engine.

Yes, NOS will get you there but the engine has to be built to take it or it can be a gernade.

The question you need to ask is he looking for 500 at the rear wheels or on an engine dyno out of the car? There is a big difference.

 

[lewtot184]

you folks might want to reference edelbrock's 383 build in their catalog. 421hp, 417ft/lbs of torque. alum heads, intake, cam, big carb and headers. very dismal low speed torque, and you don't know if the numbers were inflated. maybe NOS makes more sense for a smooth driver, or a centrifugal blower (i like the blower idea!). i used to run a 383 back in the day. it probably made 375hp and i was my daily driver. it had a dp4b intake, 780 holley, small hooker headers, and a crower 201hj cam (small cam,no longer available but can be duplicated), it was a fairly good performer. the more i cammed it the worse it ran. 383's don't make torque, and a driver needs torque (reference some of the 350 chevy builds in the eddie catalog and compare their torque to the 383 build). i think 400hp-420hp is going be about the limit for something that can be driven a lot, and i would never consider a hydraulic lifter cam.

 

[67 coronet]

i also think gas is the way to go.build a very stout eng that can handle the gas now and then and it should still be a very drivable ride.how much money is this guy willing to spend?that would make many choices for my aproch.

 

[pushrod]

I have a stock bottom end, '69 block, complete port and polished Eddie heads, Comp.510 lift, .248,.248 duration, headers, 750 holley dp on an edelbrock rpm I estimate it makes about 425 hp but it does have alot of torque, especially up to
5,500 rpm. Like was said before, If I was doing it again I would go with a hydraulic roller with more lift and duration. 500 hp can be done but it will be expensive. Talk him into a 440 crank and problem solved.

 

[RustyRatRod]

You should be able to run about 10.5 comp. with the right quench and alum. heads on pump premium.

You can 12:1 on pump gas with aluminum heads. My engine is going to blueprint at 10.4 with iron heads and I fully expect it to run on pump gas.

As has been said before, it's ALL in the heads.

 

[IQ52]

When the cool looking and useless Air Grabber system becomes more important than the horsepower, just quit worrying about the power. The Grabber is just an emotional tickle.

The reason being, there isn't a substitute intake manifold that is any good, that will fit the Air Grabber system, without modifying something. The stock cast iron manifold will limit the airflow through the intake ports to about 200 cfm or 400 HP. Put whatever heads on you wanna use. Call a cam grinder and tell him you want something snappy and smooth. He'll ask for your setup, you tell him, he'll recommend a cam. Put that cam in and install it correctly, have the ignition timing and curve right and it will feel like 500 HP. Job done.......unless you dyno it, find that it is only 350 HP and everybody is feeling poopy again.

Dump the "Grabber" if you want real power, keep it if you want to be really "cool".

Oh, I forgot, I like a tickle too and I own an Air Grabber car so I'm really cool.

 

[lewtot184]

probably get a dp6b to fit the air grabber with proper air cleaner. i ran one of those on my road chicken, back in the day, but i didn't have the air grabber.

 

[Cranky]

Short stroke engines can make horsepower but you gotta crank em up some but low end torque isn't going to be there. Best way to make a smaller engine think it's bigger is to pump more air and fuel through it and rpm is the answer and you know what you gotta do to do that. Good flowing intake and exhaust is a must have along with the right cam. If he wants torque, stroke it or go with a 440. I like the 451 combo myself that's built with a 400 block. You have the best of both worlds with the larger bore and long arm of the 440 crank. Low end torque is abundant and you get some decent horsepower too.

 

[RustyRatRod]

...........low end torque isn't going to be there.

As opposed to what? A 383 certainly beats out a 340 for bottom end torque. More than a 350 chebbie. More I bet than any 400 Chrysler ever made, because of the comperssion difference. It's all relative.

 

[64 Post]

Tough to do without a stroker crank. If it were me -- and this is exactly what I did -- I'd build for max compression, DCR and cylinder pressure for a given grade of fuel and altitude, and let the chips fall where they may.

I built a 383/451 stroker. I ran the build through a couple of sims to see where I'd be hp-wise. Due to some ring seal issues and short funds for the planned parts, it only made 476 hp and 500 tq on the chassis dyno. Had everything been optimal I know it would've done 500/500.

 

[RustyRatRod]

All this hooha is gettin too caught up in numbers. Just build what you have and have fun with it.

 

[Meridian]

Not hard to do at all...this is my current engine. Have Dyno sheets. 497hp
Aluminum heads yes indeed..91 octane no problem but likes 110...very streetable and fun build

 

[Cranky]

As opposed to what? A 383 certainly beats out a 340 for bottom end torque. More than a 350 chebbie. More I bet than any 400 Chrysler ever made, because of the comperssion difference. It's all relative.

Most people these days want tons of torque to move their heavy car. 383's are decent but longer arms produce more torque in the lower rpm ranges, plain and simple. Another thing that's not mentioned is how heavy the car is going to be. Only know it's a 70 runner. Depending on options, undercoating etc, it could top the scales at 4000 lbs! A 383 in a 3400 lb car will run pretty nice but an additional 600 lbs will be noticed. And I'm not talking about a stock 400. In stock form, they were mostly dogs. There were a few exceptions tho but not that many.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I get that, but 600 pound feet of torque will certainly be overkill for most things on the street. A lot of people have never even had a stock stroke 383 built with any sand. They automatically think they are dogs because they are smaller cube engines and nothing could be further from the truth. 350 pound feet of torque can propel a 3400 car deep into the 12s. Maybe faster.

 

[HawkRod]

... there isn't a substitute intake manifold that is any good, that will fit the Air Grabber system, without modifying something. The stock cast iron manifold will limit the airflow through the intake ports to about 200 cfm or 400 HP.

Keep in mind that there are two air grabber air cleaner base plates since the B and RB blocks are different height. A 383 air grabber base plate is actually taller than a 440 air grabber base plate.

This fact may give you some ability to play with intake manifolds. If you run a taller aluminum intake on a 383, you may be able to swap for a "less tall" RB block air grabber base plate and have everything fit.

Something to maybe explore...

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Not hard to do at all...this is my current engine. Have Dyno sheets. 497hp
Aluminum heads yes indeed..91 octane no problem but likes 110...very streetable and fun build

What parts did you use?

Specs?

All I can say about a 383 is the experience I have with my own before I swapped it out for the 493. I was able to roast the tires pretty darn good with it in my 69 RR. with a Holley 600 cfm electric choke even. All stock motor 68 block. So I know it's possible to have large power to move the car and maintain drivability. But to get just a wee bit more out of it what heads wold be a good choice? What cam? etc.

Would eddy's power package set up be good? heads, manifold, cam etc all for 2k. Or would s specialy made head be a better investment.