440 Shakes too Much

[vektro69]

I have a 440 6pack in my 69 Bee. Supposed to have dynoed around 520hp. When I got the car it had a homemade torque strap on it, using a turnbuckle and connected behind the power steering. Just had Vintage Air installed and new brackets and pulleys. That didn’t leave room for the torque strap. Mechanic thought it would be ok without it. Well, it’s not! I also got a Tremec TKO 600 5 speed. Now when trying to take off in first gear, motor shakes quite a bit.(410 gears makes it easier to just use second anyway) but I’m not sure where to use my turnbuckle or something else. Or would it be easier or better to go to a Moroso solid mount, maybe just on driver’s side?

 

[multimopes]

Sounds to me like your motor mounts are worn out.

 

[Runcharger]

Moroso solid mount, drivers side only.

 

[vektro69]

Thanks. Any suggestions on which ones to use. Don’t want too much vibration inside either though. Is that easier than trying rig up some sort of strap? Solid just on driver’s side?

 

[vektro69]

Thanks Runcharger! That’s what I was thinking may be the best and easiest fix. Beats trying to rig up some contraption fit a torque strap, and figuring out where to attach it. Motor mount you know what to do!

 

[multimopes]

Shumacher's used to make a variety of torque straps, some were fairly small and most likely would have fit your combo, but I think they went out of business.

 

[sam dupont]

Wouldn't thrash it until it's figured out.
The first recall I recall was a 1968 Chevy Impala
The motor mount would break and the motor with trans would rotate in the chassis.
That would jam it into first gear, full throttle, and the column key switch would not shut off. ...and away they go
The fix was a short cable with eyelets on both ends.

 

[multimopes]

I am not sure they had column key switches in 68,(maybe they did), but at least the steering would jam due to the engine lodged against it. I understand that it affected more than one model GM car. Of course I could be suffering early onset senility, lol!

 

[Curiousyellow71]

I don't think your going to be happy with the solid mount.. they tend to pass vibration through the body. But it is the easiest to try. We are running the moroso's.
Since your torque strap is homemade...spend a bit of time building a better one w a rubber insulator on one end. The motor mount lower ear can break off on the 69 engines... they beefed them up later. I would stick with a torque strap..but try for a insulated end.

 

[SlinktRR]

I agree I have solids with a pretty good size cam and I'm not a fan. Lots of vibration through the chassis, I'd rather have rubber mounts or one solid one rubber. But the upside is these solids aren't going anywhere.

 

[hunt2elk]

I run 2 Moroso solid mounts on all my cars. I personally don't think they are that objectionable.

 

[vektro69]

I looked at Schumacher,but they’re out of business. I think with a solid on just the driver’s side, may not be too much vibration.? Not sure. It’s at least something I can do. I’m not a great mechanic or fabricator to come up with a good strap idea on my own. The few guys I know that are good at that are always busy, and haven’t found time to help me out yet. Thought if the solid on one side works, I can get it done and not have to rely on someone else. Should I give it a try?

 

[Curiousyellow71]

I looked at Schumacher,but they’re out of business. I think with a solid on just the driver’s side, may not be too much vibration.? Not sure. It’s at least something I can do. I’m not a great mechanic or fabricator to come up with a good strap idea on my own. The few guys I know that are good at that are always busy, and haven’t found time to help me out yet. Thought if the solid on one side works, I can get it done and not have to rely on someone else. Should I give it a try?

Easy to try. Install the driver side first... one steel one rubber may not line up the best. A few of the aftermarket rubber mounts seem to be thinner or the rubber may have settled. It's one of those things we dealt with but I can't remember what the deal was.
But...520hp and a manual...if you drive like I do..may want to do the torque strap.

 

[vektro69]

Thanks!I ordered the Moroso solid mounts. Think I’ll start with one on just driver’s side, and see how that goes. If it doesn’t fix my issue, I’ll keep trying to get one of my buddies that know more than me, to help me with a strap. Just hope the one solid doesn’t add too much vibration inside. I would think it wouldn’t be too bad.

 

[RemCharger]

Can't see a strap doing much 'after' you put in a solid mount.
Sounds like you should have it worked out at that point.

 

[sam dupont]

The Chevy (GM) fix was a stout cable that wasn't loose, but it wasn't tight either. It allowed the mount to flex as it should.

From the Center for Auto Safety:
Engine mount breakage causes a self-perpetuating chain of events. When the left-side mount breaks, engine torque causes the engine to rise up, pulling open the accelerator linkage; this causes even more upward movement, and consequently more opening of the accelerator linkage, until the engine’s movement is stopped by the closed hood. Moreover, the engine’s upward movement pulls the power brake booster vacuum hose loose, thus greatly increasing the force needed to stop the car. Also, the automatic transmission “PRNDL” quadrant would shift itself over one position to the right (e.g., from D to L), affecting all gear positions; this meant that the car no longer had a Park position, and could be started in Reverse.

 

[padam]

 

[Curiousyellow71]

The Chevy (GM) fix was a stout cable that wasn't loose, but it wasn't tight either. It allowed the mount to flex as it should.

From the Center for Auto Safety:
Engine mount breakage causes a self-perpetuating chain of events. When the left-side mount breaks, engine torque causes the engine to rise up, pulling open the accelerator linkage; this causes even more upward movement, and consequently more opening of the accelerator linkage, until the engine’s movement is stopped by the closed hood. Moreover, the engine’s upward movement pulls the power brake booster vacuum hose loose, thus greatly increasing the force needed to stop the car. Also, the automatic transmission “PRNDL” quadrant would shift itself over one position to the right (e.g., from D to L), affecting all gear positions; this meant that the car no longer had a Park position, and could be started in Reverse.

I have had it happen twice. Both times the accelerator pedal went to the floor and the shifter was jammed in low. It kinked the headers when the engine hit the fenderwell. As the engine approached 7k it stopped pulling enough to leverage the shifter into 2nd and the gas pedal came back.

The only purpose of the torque strap with solid mounts is to give it extra support so you don't break the ear of the bottom of the mount on the driver side. If you are running a later 440...(not sure when they beefed it up)..Solids alone should be fine.

 

[Runcharger]

Every Hemi I've built over the last 35 years has had a solid mount on the drivers side. I personally don't find it objectionable and in this day and age of poor quality rubber mounts it is a fast, bulletproof solution. Also easy to do. The rubber cushion retained on the psgr side will help a little bit with the perceived vibration issue. Any 4 speed car needs the least amount of engine movement possible.

 

[dadsbee]

I run 2 Moroso solid mounts on all my cars. I personally don't think they are that objectionable.

I'm with Joel! I've been running solids, both sides, in my Bee since 1979. I dare anyone to feel the difference between it and the Bird running rubbers..