440 stroker kit

[Joske2]

Hi Everyone,

Does anyone has experience with the 440 to 500 Scat stroker kits ?
or would you recommend other supplier?

idea is to build a nice street engine, no high RPM but lots of torque.

 

[451Mopar]

4.15 or 4.25 stroke?
I have 4.25 stroker from 440 source. At 30 over it is 505 cid.

 

[Joske2]

4.15 or 4.25 stroke?
I have 4.25 stroker from 440 source. At 30 over it is 505 cid.

4,15 stroke

 

[1967coronet440]

I used the eagle 505 kit, 4.25 stroke

 

[493 Mike]

When I put my 493 together I used a balanced rotating assembly from Ohio Crankshaft. No problems! Don't bore over .030" if you don't have to-save that extra for the future rebuild and you will gain thicker/stronger cylinder walls for this rebuild.
Mike

 

[wyrmrider]

what fuel which equals what compression?
tight quench with a closed chamber head --open chamber only if you have high octane gas available 915s or aluminum

torque motor formula
short cam for .904 lifter or hyd roller I use a Mike Jones Mopar special
high ratio rocker especially on the intake
I use oil through the pushrod lifters and pushrods, saves the pushrod ends and rocker cups
keep overlap down, which keeps heat down

 

[IQ52]

Hi Everyone,

Does anyone has experience with the 440 to 500 Scat stroker kits ?
or would you recommend other supplier?

idea is to build a nice street engine, no high RPM but lots of torque.

In answer to your question.......The Scat stroker kit will be just fine.

 

[wyrmrider]

Scat's fine but you have to be careful of quench and compression
non race BBM - what you are trying to do- torque motor do not work well with open chamber
high rpm and race gas work with open chamber ok
to prevent heat and detonation use tight quench, low overlap (not like the stock or HP cam)
you can lower your exhaust temp by many hundred degrees
the lower you drop the piston down the hole the more gas you have to give it to make the same power- and more heat
you do not want your exhaust glowing cherry red like 73 and later Big blocks spec the KB reverse deflector pistons if you must use stock open chamber heads but be prepared for a trial assembly to get the quench dome to fit tight like .035 clearance- I helped design those pistons closed chamber heads with a reverse dome is easier- work out the cc's before you buy your kit

 

[Joske2]

Scat's fine but you have to be careful of quench and compression
non race BBM - what you are trying to do- torque motor do not work well with open chamber
high rpm and race gas work with open chamber ok
to prevent heat and detonation use tight quench, low overlap (not like the stock or HP cam)
you can lower your exhaust temp by many hundred degrees
the lower you drop the piston down the hole the more gas you have to give it to make the same power- and more heat
you do not want your exhaust glowing cherry red like 73 and later Big blocks spec the KB reverse deflector pistons if you must use stock open chamber heads but be prepared for a trial assembly to get the quench dome to fit tight like .035 clearance- I helped design those pistons closed chamber heads with a reverse dome is easier- work out the cc's before you buy your kit

i was thinking to use Edelbrock RPM heads 84cc, and since here in Europe pump gas is 98oct , that should work

 

[IQ52]

Scat's fine but you have to be careful of quench and compression
non race BBM - what you are trying to do- torque motor do not work well with open chamber
high rpm and race gas work with open chamber ok
to prevent heat and detonation use tight quench, low overlap (not like the stock or HP cam)
you can lower your exhaust temp by many hundred degrees
the lower you drop the piston down the hole the more gas you have to give it to make the same power- and more heat
you do not want your exhaust glowing cherry red like 73 and later Big blocks spec the KB reverse deflector pistons if you must use stock open chamber heads but be prepared for a trial assembly to get the quench dome to fit tight like .035 clearance- I helped design those pistons closed chamber heads with a reverse dome is easier- work out the cc's before you buy your kit

"helped design"?

Now we are getting more interesting. Explain, but, slow down, use more words and punctuation so I can understand better.

 

[moper]

Two thoughts -
I'm with IQ on that comment...
Your fuel at 98 octane is no better than our pump 93. It's just measured differently than ours. So be careful of that assumption...

 

[451Mopar]

Hi Everyone,

Does anyone has experience with the 440 to 500 Scat stroker kits ?
or would you recommend other supplier?

idea is to build a nice street engine, no high RPM but lots of torque.

When configuring an engine, everything is about compromise. I don't know what lots of torque means(500, 600, 700+ ft/lbs?), or no high RPM?
What is the vehicle? The application? The weight? The gearing? how is the engine going to be loaded? What fuel type / octane? What altitude?
There are some math formulas that can be helpful here. The Jim McFarland formula which estimates the peak torque RPM of the engine based on the intake port cross section area as the air flow reaches the sonic choke point around 0.5+ Mach.
There is also the dynamic compression ratio calculations that can estimate cranking cylinder pressures and low speed (idle) torque. This can be used a (very) rough estimate of fuel octane requirements.
There is also the budget to consider.

I think a Cummins turbo diesel makes lots of torque and no high RPM, but I don't think that is what your looking for?

 

[Joske2]

When configuring an engine, everything is about compromise. I don't know what lots of torque means(500, 600, 700+ ft/lbs?), or no high RPM?
What is the vehicle? The application? The weight? The gearing? how is the engine going to be loaded? What fuel type / octane? What altitude?
There are some math formulas that can be helpful here. The Jim McFarland formula which estimates the peak torque RPM of the engine based on the intake port cross section area as the air flow reaches the sonic choke point around 0.5+ Mach.
There is also the dynamic compression ratio calculations that can estimate cranking cylinder pressures and low speed (idle) torque. This can be used a (very) rough estimate of fuel octane requirements.
There is also the budget to consider.

I think a Cummins turbo diesel makes lots of torque and no high RPM, but I don't think that is what your looking for?

Well, actually, it is, let me explain.


Here in Belgium, lets face it, if you are not driving on the highway, 95% of the time you drive between 15 to 55mph.
so, with my roadrunner, when i take it to work sometimes, you drive most of the times between 1500 and 3000RPM.

Now i have the Original 383engine in it, wich likes more than 3000RPM to be happy, so i thought, lets make a 500CU engine,
keep the RPM limit to 6000 max, get a roller cam with 112 lobe separation to keep the vacuum high at idle (PB) as much lift as possible ,, a good dual plane intake (Perf. RPM) some good headers, CR of about 10 to 1 , and , in theory we should have an engine that makes alot of torque down low, but with the high lift and good intake should not die after 5000RPM for the very occasional let her go moment

its a 383 auto with 3.55 gears.

what do you think?

 

[451Mopar]

Well, actually, it is, let me explain.


Here in Belgium, lets face it, if you are not driving on the highway, 95% of the time you drive between 15 to 55mph.
so, with my roadrunner, when i take it to work sometimes, you drive most of the times between 1500 and 3000RPM.

Now i have the Original 383engine in it, wich likes more than 3000RPM to be happy, so i thought, lets make a 500CU engine,
keep the RPM limit to 6000 max, get a roller cam with 112 lobe separation to keep the vacuum high at idle (PB) as much lift as possible ,, a good dual plane intake (Perf. RPM) some good headers, CR of about 10 to 1 , and , in theory we should have an engine that makes alot of torque down low, but with the high lift and good intake should not die after 5000RPM for the very occasional let her go moment

its a 383 auto with 3.55 gears.

what do you think?

Sorry, I did not mean to be snippy, just had a really long day at work that night.
Really with an engine around 500" your going to have plenty of torque.
I was concerned about Low Speed Pre Ignition (LSPI) when you said low RPM high torque (high cylinder pressure.)
There is quite a bit of difference in how the engine is loaded between say a truck towing a heavy trailer, and a street or race car.
In something like the truck engine under high and constant low RPM load, you would not want a lower compression ratio, and lower rod ratio.
In a race car that is lightly loaded and always reving to max RPM, you would want higher compression and a higher rod ratio.
The street car usually falls somewhere in between. Usually what you end up building is something fairly common because of using off the shelf parts to keep the costs down.

My Convertible has a 440 stroked to 505". That is 0.030" overbore, using the 4.25" stroke crank from 440 source, with the long 7.1" rods and -17cc dished pistons.
With the older 84cc stealth heads, compression ratio is about 10.3:1. The cam is the Comp Cams 286HR (hydraulic roller), with 1.6:1 Harlan Sharpe rocker arms and Smith Brothers pushrods. Originally I tries some cheap 1.7:1 rocker arms, but they were not oiling correctly. The reason I mention that is when I got valve springs, I used the Isky 8005A (135 psi @ 1.875" install height, 400 psi spring rate, and coil bind at 0.720") They seem to work good with the Hydraulic Roller cam as it revs easy to the 6,000 RPM rev-limiter. The car has a 3.54:1 dana 60, and Legend Gear and Transmission SS-700 5-speed OD transmission. 50 MPH is about 1,500 RPM in overdrive. I had the Edelbrock RPM air gap and Holley street avenger 770 or 870 carb (don't recall the exact cfm) on the car, but the intake/carb/air filter combination ended up being too tall to fit under the stock hood. I added a hood scoop to a different hood at the time and used it. I changed that to the Edelbrock XT port EFI which has lower hood clearance so I can put the original hood back on.
This engine runs pretty good. Plenty of torque, but I have had slight pinging depending on what ignition timing I used.

Some things I would different. Use the Trick Flow 240 heads. and -27cc dished pistons. When I first built the engine I was thinking the outer original look of the Stealth head would be neat, but after changing everything else, nothing looks stock on the engine now. You can order the Trick Flow heads with a valve spring package that should match your cam, and they should be good to bolt on out of the box. I bought a set with the solid roller valve springs for a new project and had them inspected and flowed by my cylinder head guy and they flowed as advertised and did not need additional work. They have smaller combustion chambers and the spark plug is in a better location too. That should reduce the chance of pre-ignition. Because of the smaller chambers, need the larger dish pistons to keep compression down to around 10.1:1 with the same 4.25" stroker crank/rods. On the new build (different car) I am going with a solid roller cam that is slightly larger. Main reason is that I don't want to have to limit the RPM as much as I would with a hydraulic cam.