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$500- 68 charger

It sounds like its all good, The rest should be easier on the thought process!
 
Before you buy tires check your clearance at the front of the wheel well, maybe a little tight with 30's. need to allow for growth at speed also. On my 69 RR drag car I had to cut the fender lip at the front to keep from rubbing.
 
I think we talked about some of the clearance issues before, memory barely serves.. My Calvert monoleaf is going to put my rear back 1/2" or so., I believe., so that may help a little, and I trimmed the lips off some. A friend of mine has some big tires on 10" wheels, not sure of the exact tire size, but I'll borrow one for a test fit and that may help me see if 30's will work.
 
Got the rear end housing cleaned up, painted and installed.. I'll be taking the car out of the rotis soon, it's starting to get to heavy for my comfort. I'll put the K-member in then put it back on the rolling jack-stands. Since most of the hard work on the bottom is done there isn't much need for the rotis anymore.
 

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Wow! That looks really nice Daytona, nothing better than crawling under your car for some wrenching and seeing the bottom just as nice as the top............... Well done. I've got 27" tires on mine, if you want I can take a pic holding a tape measure showing just how much more room you have if you like.
 
hey when i lived up in Independence Calif i meet this guy that had a 70 he raced on the oval trac he never lost a race and when his daughter drove it she never came in under 3rd. his name was al or really nice guy. he was going to help me build a 73 Challenger for the trac but i ended up moving instead. i look back at that and think i wish i bought that car . i could of picked it up for 75 dollars
 
Unless the guy was racing a stock vehicle, didn't race much, and didn't hit anything, you probably shouldn't regret missing that deal, unless you were going to race it.. Most cars that are raced on ovals or road courses with other cars are pretty modified and/or beat/bent up, body and frame wise. You'd probably spend a lot less money and time with something that hasn't been oval raced or modified for oval or road racing. Drag cars are usually a little less of a problem in that area.
 
Working on getting my offset hangers installed right now, for the cal tracks too. Man I wish they would have used the right bolt pattern. I had to move the holes outboard about a 1/4 also to get them to clear the frame rail.
 
just checked out the tread haven't seen it in a while, looking great
 
Working on getting my offset hangers installed right now, for the cal tracks too. Man I wish they would have used the right bolt pattern. I had to move the holes outboard about a 1/4 also to get them to clear the frame rail.
So you're saying the front offset hangers wouldn't clear the frame because the 4 studs wouldn't line up with their holes, or was it the big nut (inbrd) that holds the bolt thru the spring in the hanger interfering? My studs didn't match up with the stock holes in the frame, so I opened them up a little. I posted a few pics and went into detail about the problems I had with the hangers and how I fixed them. If you haven't read thru that part of my thread you may see something that would help. I'm happy with mine, now! But it is stupid of them for not making them to fit.
 
I checked the molasses rust vat today, everything I pulled out looked really good and ready to prep and paint. What a great way to get the rust off of your old parts. I will be taking some of the parts out and painting them up in the next few days, will post pics then.
 
Here are a couple of parts out of the molasses after 18 days. I water rinsed them and blew dry with shop air. There is a little flacky paint left and some minor black pitting that may have gone away with a few more days in the vat. I will now hit them a little with the sand blaster. I will have to say this is working great for me, so far. My small sand blaster is slow and not an easy set-up to use. Using the molasses will cut out probably 80% of the blasting, I would guess. I would highly recommend the molasses to anyone, unless you have a really good working sand-blast cabinet or can get a good deal from someone else to blast stuff for you.
 

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Here are a couple of parts out of the molasses after 18 days. I water rinsed them and blew dry with shop air. There is a little flacky paint left and some minor black pitting that may have gone away with a few more days in the vat. I will now hit them a little with the sand blaster. I will have to say this is working great for me, so far. My small sand blaster is slow and not an easy set-up to use. Using the molasses will cut out probably 80% of the blasting, I would guess. I would highly recommend the molasses to anyone, unless you have a really good working sand-blast cabinet or can get a good deal from someone else to blast stuff for you.

Amazing!
 
Looks like it took most of it off. I used a harbor freight sand blaster for mine. It worked fairly well and actually the only reasons it wasn't perfect were mine...too small of an air compressor and needs an air dryer.

I also like to use "rust prep" which is an acidic solution that forms a zinc sulphate on the surface changing the chemical composition of the rust and a good base for primer. So far everything I have used it on is holding up well.

Keep up the good work man...lots of good progress
 
Lightly blasted the control arms, primed and painted them antique brass. Was looking for a color similar to cad plate gold or the cosmoline stuff they had on them from the factory. I'm going to paint some of the suspension parts gun metal gray also. And I'm getting some of that new chrome paint from Eastwood for my roll bars and may put some of that on different things under the car and maybe under the hood if it looks good enough.
 

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Got the skid plate installed. Thnx Hunt!
 

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Got the skid plate installed. Thnx Hunt!

Looking good Kid. Just don't stick a floor jack under the k-frame to lift the car. I did that once and now have a small dent in my skid plate.
 
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